Yea thats why i was curious as to the good towels, i will refer back to that detailing article when the weather is good to go....right now i just pressure wash it at quarter wash as needed to keep salt and mud off lol....its a battle. Don't really trust drive through washes, and it doesnt help that they have signs as you pull in saying not reponsible for damage.

I am also not opposed to buying a good wax. I mean truck has 90k on it, i owe quite a bit on it, LOL....id like it to look as good in another 90 as it does right now, haha. And yes the silver does look awesome to me, has just enough chrome on it as well that it looks sharp. I was all over lots the day I bought it and internet, and this one... just had to have it. Was a lil more then i WANTED to spend, but...had to do it, haha.

So, if it cost a few more bucks to get something that is actually better then the cheaper stuff, I dont mind. I just dont wanna spend $50 for wax, and get a finish I coulda got from somethin much cheaper @ autozone. Hence brand recommendations...

I see you said a sealant and wax, so you are thinking i dont need to do clay? I mean, after a winter with some salt, parking where i have to in frickin bird bomb range, etc...thought the clay treatment would be good to do.

 

No you do need to clay. Clay gets out the contaminents so you make sure you have the perfect canvas to work on. I.E. start your paint correction.

If you just want to protect it.

Strip was the car (dawn dish soap mixed in with car wash) or Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down (strips all the old sealants and wax so you have just the clear coat.

Clay

Seal

Wax


The sealant puts a protective barrier that keeps the clear a little bit more protected than just wax. The americana is freaking sweet! I was very skeptical to use it, but I got it on a daily special for $55 shipped IIRC. You use very little per application. I'd say it'll last me a few years honestly.

I clay about every time I need an oil change (just to get all the junk out of the paint). Then repeat the process above

 

Really, this is something you do every 3-5k miles (depending on your interval, lol). Far as the alcohol, doesnt the clay take off the grime and wax i thought? Or does the alcohol do a pre-clean to make the clays work a little less dirty, lol...

 

So basically, lemme break it down, i would wash it with a car wash + dawn...would i want a car wash from adams too? Also i see now u said OR. for the alcohol.

Next, use the clay on it, now i seen the mothers and meguiars clay kits at auto store, those ok for this? I will look into the how to do, at a later time.

Then apply the sealant, and was there an adams one you prefer for this? At this stage am i getting out the swirl marks and stuff, or was that during the clay phase.?! maybe this? http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-139-a...r-sealant.aspx

So when i get to the wax portion, all the swirls etc should be out, and this is just protecting. And i can put this stuff and the sealer on with D/A?

So, the sealant isnt a final step? It seems like when i read the description and stuff they make it sound like its a final step, lol.

Thanks for the help, never really tried to make a car wash this complicated, i mean in the past i have waxed em or w/e but to be honest the last car i had i drove to death to avoid a payment, def a little more motive when you have one, and overall like the vehicle 1000x better.

 

The IPA gets everything off the surface, then the clay gets the stuff that is embedding in the clear.

It is just a helpful step, IPA & distilled water in a spray bottle ($1.60 total)

 

For a very basic, simple, keep a silver truck looking good that has decent paint or not too worried about what it looks a foot away, do the following:

Wash w/ Meguiar's Gold Class Soap - available everywhere
Add a sealant or wax - for sealants choose from several Wolfgang, BFWD, Adams, Duragloss, and many more. Some are for durability, some for looks, some are easy to use but the ones above pretty much meet all those, maybe BFWD being the easiest to use by hand. Waxes are generally better known for their looks and lack durability but some can go fairly long, Collinite being one of them.

Most waxes added over a sealant are for beautification and don't last overly long or added for protection. Personally, I'm not into layering, put down a sealant and call it good. I would rather layer a glaze than a beauty wax I guess, but there are many methods, products, systems used to get to a great looking truck. It is more of a personal choice.

Washing, claying or adding a sealant will not correct any swirls, hazes, marring or rids. That can really only be accomplished via a polish and I would highly recommend using your DA for that. The only exception possibly is the new BFWD system that I'm hearing good things for hand users but have no direct experience.

For towels, Target & Costco have carried decent brands before that work.

Now since you came to this forum, I'm assuming you want to step up a notch. Granted, sometimes the work to keep a truck clean can get overwhelming and tiring at times. So, try these steps.

Wash - same soap works great
Claybar - I use Mother's from the autostore exclusively. It is one of the least aggressive clays meaning it will take more effort on stubborn stains but harder to induce any marring.
One step polish - I don't have a lot of experience in one steps but have used Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it finished amazingly well. I still followed up with the Ultimate Polish but could have easily stopped at the Compbound - again both of these available over the counter.
Wash again to remove any polishing oils
Sealant

Towels, here I would try to get some decent ones like from Pakshak, they come highly recommended.

If you want to dive in like many of us, here is what I will do for my spring detail:
Power Wash w/ foam cannon loaded with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss
Power Rinsed
Second Power Wash again w/ foam cannon, but this time I use a Grout sponge w/ rinse bucket all over the car.
Power Rinsed
CarPro Iron-X to remove all the iron particals
Remove any tar w/ WD-40
Claybar
Wash car again, yes again with the Power Washer and foam cannon. Only time of year I use so try to get my use.
If I need alot of correction, I use Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
Then always use Menzerna Super Finish (106FA)
You always would need to prep the paint/remove oils before applying any type of sealant, otherwise you may end up with streaking and poor durability.
Here I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish. It is more of a paint cleaner than anything.
I try to let the car sit for a day to let the SRP cure.
Next day, light wash with Optimum No Rinse if needed
If I want to pump up the gloss and know I'll hurt my durability, I'll add a glaze.
I'll throw in Danaze Wet Glaze 2.0. Apply in morning, let cure for 8 hours.
Then for final protection is Black Fire Wet Diamond.
At this point, my trick is glowing, dripping, and super slick.

Only towels I use are from the Rag Shack, Superflys - I haven't found a better towel.
I use a DA for the polishing steps, Buff 'n Shine Yellow for first one, then Green for last. I use a separate Gold Pad (can't recall the company) for the SRP, DWG and BFWD. Don't forget about tire/wheel/trim/wheel well protecting.

For trim, I use the Ultimate Tire and Trim Guard
Wheels - get same sealant as paint, normally
Tires - Mother's Reflection
Wheel Well's - Meguiars Hyperdressing

You can use so many other products in place of mine to achieve the same thing but hopefully some product names I've thrown out there will give you some consideration. To really spend time in detailing, go to www.autogeek.com or www.autopia.org forums.

 

holy cow...lol. Yea I can see how some of the products are a personal taste. I just didnt wanna waste money on junk, same with towels. And yes, I do want to do it right, but I am not sure how much "correction" i need...i mean is this something a trained eye sees, stuff like haze, stains, swirls, etc? If so, this is where I would buy a polishing product.

 

Just realized my old orbital is kind of, well maybe not the best choice, lol...its a shop force single speed orbital buffer/polisher!

Was wondering if itd be wise to invest in something more like this, for a beginner keep in mind....

http://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-7424xp.html

 

One thing to keep in mind, it is a general statement.

If you are going to clay, you are going to polish.

Might only be a mild polish on a black pad, but plan on it all the same.

else, you will have some sort of micro marring, and you would wax right over it.
Might as well shine a halogen work lamp on it in my book..

The PC 7424Xp is a nice machine. Take a look at Amazon as well.

no need to go over the top with expensive gear.

One thing I will say, check into DA kits that have the backing plate, some foam pads all in 1 kit.
Think there was an into thread in this forum on it, maybe that was a Griots garage DA.

They are all generally the same. Some will tout one as having more power than another.
I'd like to know what it was compared to, and how to come up with this claim ( I think it is marking Hype that has been passed around.
Just like vacuums and shop vacs, motor AMPs does not tell a thing.

If you want a nice middle of the road, cheap long lasting LSP, take a look at Colinite 845. I got the recommendation from Tom, some time back and it is great for 18.00 / bottle.
Take a read on the Colinite paint cleaners as well, for that "polish" step. If you do not need correction ( and know you do not ) this might be a lower cost entry to what you need to get going in the correct direction.
Speaking of that, there is no reason you need a DA to do application, it is a speed / ease thing. So if $$ are limited, maybe wait on the DA..

 

I have read in a few places, and i dunno if this is true or not, that the carnauba wax is better for like darker color vehicles, and typically doesnt last as long, where as a sealant is better for a light color like mine, (light grey), and last longer typically. Any input on that as far as choice between one or the other, or a layer. Really beginning to wonder if i am gettin too carried away, and id be fine just hittin it with a good wash, the clay bar, a light polish since this paint isnt bad as it is, then a sealant. Far as the DA i guess it isnt critical to get one, just seemed like itd be easier.

You saying if i dont have a LOT of correction needed, then the D/A isnt really "needed"

 

Here is a kit you can buy that does a GREAT job in the hands of a novice:

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...ction-kit.html

- Meguiar's G110V2 Polisher with 1-year factory warranty
- One Meguiar's W68DA Velcro Backing Plate For W9207 Foam Finishing Pad
- One Meguiar's W67DA Velcro Backing Plate For Microfiber Discs
- Two Meguiar's 5" Microfiber DA Cutting Discs
- Two Meguiar's 5" Microfiber DA Finishing Discs
- One Meguiar's W9207 Foam Finishing Pad (For Synthetic Sealant)
- One Meguiar's D30016 Microfiber Compound (16 oz.)
- One Meguiar's D30116 Microfiber Finishing Wax (16 oz.)
- One Meguiar's M2112 Synthetic Sealant (12 oz.)
- One FREE Meguiar's Duffle Bag!
- One FREE Microfiber Disc Conditioning Brush.
- FREE Shipping!

Wash
Clay
Compound with cutting disc
Wax with finishing disc
M21 sealant with foam pad

 

The colinite 845 is a LSP that will give bright finish, this is why i suggested it for your (YN ? ) silver.
I notice the brightness of it using it on electic blue vs PB products.
Don't let the wax in the name lead you to think one way or the other, this stuff wears very well. I use it on the roof of my cab & cap on Dark stone just for this reason. I also use it on the rocker panels. It does not work quite as well as layers of PBNatty's blue paste layered with BH glaze, but it is a single step product.

See how easy it is.
You did not want to do 10 steps, but now you are 4 steps without thinking about it.
You can make it an obsession / hobby of its own, or just take care of the truck. You might find you have more defects than you think when you start to look at it. Just like wood working, the better the prep, the better the final results. Can't use 120 grit sandpaper and go right to poly on wood, same for paint. That is why clay, polish before LSP.

The DA will make thing easier.
I was only making a comment if money is an issue. A DA kit can start in the 165 range for a DA, backing plate few pads and go up to the megs kit that GLC posted. Take a look at the other DA kits Rick has at ADS ( it is a buff & shine kit, I don't use those ).
I still think the finish the 2nd step leaves on the megs MF kit needs a hit of PO85Rd on a black pad to make it look like the remainder of my truck ( tested it a few days ago against Opti MF pads and hyper Combo ).

If you don't mind taking the elbow grease route, you can get some foam pads ( white / black and red ) and a polish & LSP and give it a try.
If you don't get the results you want or find you have more defects than you thought, get a DA.
That is if money is an issue, if the 165.00 is not an issue now ( exclusive of product costs ) go for it. You will use it more than you think.

 

I mean, I didnt get a chance to run through GLCs kit piece by piece, but will later.

I did see that price, and to me thats not too bad if its a decent kit/polisher.

I mean I just bought this truck on a 5yr loan, 3mo ago (though im attempting to pay it off sooner). So, correcting/sealing this paint is probably something I am going to do a NUMBER of times. SO if the initial outlay for the DA is around 120 NOW, im pretty sure I would get my moneys worth out of it, lol. And yes i could buy one right now. I just didnt wanna go buckwild buyin other products i really wasnt sure if i needed. I mean if id of never asked i probably woulda just bought a clay bar at autozone, and one of THEIR better waxes n went to town...like i always used to (minus the clay). Diff is back then as i said before, the car was a hand me down, tho decent, i got while i was in college, lol....i didnt have the same motivation i do now.

Plus it was a car, and i dont love reg cars like i do trucks hehehe.

 

I think that's one reason Rick adds the M21 and foam pad to the kit - that's an excellent synthetic sealant that does have a bit of polish and filler in it. The MF finishing wax isn't really that good of a LSP but it does need to be used after the compound before the LSP.

The M21 is really just the professional version of NXT 2.0.

 

Get the DA or a DA kit because you can also use it to apply your wax/sealant which helps timewise on our larger vehicles. In addition, some products require to be applied very thin and the DA is best for that. Applying some products too thick and might have a harder time to remove them.

I have the basic Porter Cable DA 7336 which is the same as the 7424XP but with a different counter weight. Then I just bought pads/backing plates as I grew into detailing.