Hey Guys, tried the fix on my 05 sc today. I'm not clear on what's actually turning with this fix. Are we turning the black nut while holding the threads with the pliers or do we hold behind the the spline gear (firewall side) with the pliers while turning the black nut? I tried it both ways & seems like I had better results by holding behind the spline gear. While holding behid the spline gear & turning the nut, I noticed that the threads that go into the spline gear were turning also. What is the length of the black nut? Does it go from the round end to where the treads start?
Also read where some had turned the nut too far & were having heat problems on the rotors. How hot is too hot? Shouldn't the rotors get hot while just driving & no braking because the pads are seated on them?

Thanks

 

This is a 20 minute (if that) adjustment that can fix years of disappointment in a crappy pedal.

1: shut truck off, pop hood

2: pump brake pedal until it gets firm to release vacuum

3: remove two 13mm nuts holding master cylinder to booster, swing master cylinder out of the way to make some room

4: from under hood, you'll see the black nut inside booster

5: while holding threads behind black nut with needle nose pliers, turn black nut with 7mm socket a teeeeeny-weeeeny bit. I turned mine MORE than a 1/4, but LESS THAN 1/2 a turn.

6: put everything back together, make sure brakes are not dragging and enjoy your "new" brake pedal, the way it should've left the factory!

 

Thanks copcarguy for the reply. I was holding right behind the nut head with the pliers & was actually still on the nut. The nut was slipping in the pliers while I was turning it. Holding behind the spline gear & turning the nut will give the same result. With this procedure, your extending the threaded rod from the spline instead of extending the nut. I'm at 3/4 turn & the pedal feels alot better. I'll take it out some more until I get it right.

Thanks to rms8 for gettin this one started & to everyone who contributed to it.

 

Glad it worked for ya!

 

Hey Guys, my setup is different from the one's in this thread. I can't hold the threads behind the black nut & turn the nut with the 7mm wrench. The black nut on mine is actually a bolt that is threaded into the spline gear.
I have to wedge the brake pedal to allow the plunger to stick out some. Then I have to put the needle nose vise grips behind the spline gear & lock them down, and then I can turn the black nut/bolt out. Have adjusted mine 3 times & this is the only way it works

 

Can someone that done this procedure to resolve the soft brake pedal, do a break down on which parts need to be removed with this depicted diagram.

 

The part in question is not in the depicted diagram. It is a small rod that goes through the middle of 6 from 22. The 1/4 turn description is accurate, but this can be difficult to accurately measure using a socket wrench and a needle nose pliers.

The final result is not a cure all, at least on my vehicle. It improved the pedal feel but not to the point of matching my other vehicles. Only the plane has brakes that feel like the F150.

 

Which way do we turn clock-wise or counter clockwise?

 

I just completed this fix over the weekend. Prior to trying the fix, I replaced all four rotors and new pads (wagner Thermoquiet Edge). The rotors / pads did not fix the crappy pedal feel, so I moved on to this fix.

I took a nut driver and put a black mark so I could gauge the how far I rotated it. I then just pinched on the splined area behind the threaded rod and turned the nut a 1/4 turn counter clockwise (lengthening rod). This improved the feel of the pedal enough for me to be happy, with no bind of the brakes.

Thanks again..

 

Here's some pics that might help someone out.

Enjoy!!

 

Did it this morning and took about 20 min. I too always had to double pump to stop and this definately help.
I turned it a little over 1/4 turn, put it back together and took it for a ride. I did notice not having to pump the brakes to stop, but the pedals firmness is about the same. The pedal is'nt suppose to be harder, right? Also, the original post says to cinch down the locking nut (???). I just followed the last couple posts and held the rod behind the spline in place and turned the 7mm nut counterclockwise 1\4 turn and put it back together. No cinching. Did I forget something ?

 

The pedal should be harder. You might want to adjust it some more.The only locking nuts are the two that attach the master cylinder to the booster. Sounds like you did everything right.

 

Sounds good, I'll adjust it a little more today. Just don't want my brakes to be dragging and have issues. After I did this, drove it for 5 miles and licked fingure\touched rotor and I could only keep it there for 1 or 2 sec. It that normal? Seem to drive fine

 

The rotors will get hot from the pads dragging during driving & braking. Touch the wheel (rim) after your next adjustment & test drive. Wheel should be warm, but not hot. You did a 1/4 turn & didn't notice any pedal firmness difference so you don't have too much drag on the rotors. I had to adjust mine 4 times & 1 & 1/8 turns was good for me.

 

Ahhh, o.k. so if the rim not the rotor gets hot, got it now. I'll adjust it again then. Thank you