So, Ive been contemplating for over a year how to get more bass outta my Sony system, and following Scotts write up here- huge success!

A few things I discovered along the way:
I went with a Kicker Comp RT shallow mount 8"... Dunno if it's just a newer version or what, but mine had red stitch around the cone, so it's definitely not the exact same. Not only did I have to melt the box ledge, but also the screw mount...That was hitting the base off the speaker not allowing it to sit flush. In addition, I added a 1/2" thick piece of insulation around the sub enclosure opening to give me a little more depth... I used a heat gun to melt and hammer to push it out like Scott did. I also used a metallic exhaust tape to seal the screw hole from the old sub and reinforce the portions that I melted...then sprayed it with flex seal inside and out

I initially went with a Kicker 300.1 amp because it had a bass remote lead. Unfortunately, it just didn't put out enough power... Not sure exactly why, but there was very little improvement over stock... So, I returned that and went with an Alpine MRV M500. This one did the trick! Like Scotts Kenwood and the Kicker, it has speaker level input and auto turn on as well as the option for a remote bass control.

I ran the power wire to the battery with an in line fuse. I went through the firewall behind the emergency brake petal, there's a gasket for the hood latch line, made a convenient pass through. I grounded the new amp to the screw That holds the seat latch lock to the back wall. Very convenient.

I also went with the Infinity Kappa 6x9s. That might be a little over kill for the Sony amp, as I don't think they're being pushed to their potential, but they definitely helped clean up the muddy Sony sound. If you change your door speakers, don't forget the Metra speaker adapters- they're only $20 and saves you from having to butcher your Sony speakers to use the adapter built into them. The adapters were a perfect fit into the door, however the speaker screw holes didn't align perfectly with the adapter holes, I ended up drilling the self tapping screws into the adapter and sealing the speaker edges with caulk for added security... (side note: my sub screw holes DID align with the Sony enclosure, I think someone else posted theirs did not)

I ran my bass remote wire up the driver trim panel along with the power wire and under the carpet on the floor board to the center console. From there I ran it up and mounted the control in the little 3" x3"' cubby next to the radio. In order to remove that trim piece and drill an access point, I popped off the center speaker cover and the two screws holding the top in place, then the two screws holding the stereo fascia which came right off. I then had.an edge I.could get at to pop the tabs out and remove that silver trim panel which gave access to that cubby...

I think that's about it... The stereo sounds a million times better, for under $500. If your on the fence about this, don't hesitate- so well worth it!!!!

 

Has anyone added the Kicker VSS (Factory Option) sub/amp package to a truck that didn't have a factory sub? If so, is the factory wiring all there making it plug and play? Also I see there is a 5 speaker Kicker KS series 5 speaker (or 4 depending) upgrade kit being sold as a package to replace the stock speakers. Anybody do these and how were the results?

 

Hey so this may have already been talked about but here it goes. I have 2 "12" subs and amp already in the truck that I added by tapping the rear speakers before the Sony amp. I should note that I have the Sony system with the built in sub. I am wondering if I can tap my amp and subs into the Sony system by using the wires that go to the existing sub? If so how do I go about doing that and which existing color wires would I be taping?

 

Yeah; as long as your amp accepts hi level input (or you buy a converter) then you absolutely can, that's what I did and it works perfectly. I cut the wires that run from the Sony amp down the channel on the front of the Sony sub enclosure and ran those into my new amp. If I remember correctly, there's 4 wires 2 pos and 2 neg, I cant recall the colors/markings if hand, but it was pretty evident when you see them. Worst case scenario, there's only a couple bolts to take the enclosure out, just open up the speaker, I believe the pos/neg on each voice coil were marked on the speaker itself. Also, if your new amp had a power sensing feature (most newer amps do) you won't need to run a remote wire, the amp turns on automaticallywhen the radio powers on

 

Thank you! This is a huge help!

For whatever reason my current setup (taping the rear speakers) doesn't allow my subs to really hit. Even with the base turned up from the head unit and the remote amp numb turned all the way up. Does you setup really hit in the configuration you have now? I've had 2 x 12" in another car with the same amps and subs and I could shake the car apart if I so choose to. But like I said the way I have it taped into the rear I get nothing....

 

I'm on my third configuration now, and finally got it right. I started just replacing the Sony sub w a Kicker Comp RT and Kicker 300 watt amp- but like you said, I barely noticed a difference, even when cranked up... I then went to sn Alpine 500 watt amp which made a HUGE difference, and I actually fried the voice coils within two days; which makes me wonder if I had something wired wrong the first time... Anyway, I kept the same Alpine amp and bought a JL Audio 10" power wedge enclosure- it's amazing!!!! I have the amp gain at 45-50% and keep the remote **** around 35-40% and it sounds incredible. Shakes all the mirrors... So id assume there's something wrong with you're set-up, either the ohms, wires inverted or the way it's wired (parallel vs series)...

 

You are literally the man! Thank you so much for the help it worked perfectly just finished it up today. Very easy no issues. The bass slams now and I actually have way more control over it then before. I have one last question. I believe you said your amp didn't need the remote wire it turned on and off by itself? I ran my remote wire to the passenger side fuse box and used an add a fuse to get it to turn on but my issues is finding a port that turns on and off with the truck because currently it stays on all the time with the fuse I picked. Any suggestions?

 

Glad it's working out for you! I specifically looked for an amp that had the auto-on feature to avoid this issue... But, if you've already got an amp, I'd suggest taking a volt meter (Harbor Freight usually has them as a weekly free give away with any purchase) and testing the available fuse options with the truck turned off, should be able to find one that's not a constant power that way.

 

Yeah I already bought the amp...But good call I actually already have a volt meter I will have to do some testing tomorrow! Thanks again for the help!

 

I just did this mod tonight. In the first 5 minutes of listening I am already impressed. Thank you to the OP for giving the great directions!!! I can't wait to see if it does "break-in" after a couple weeks. Thanks again!!!

 

Glad you got it worked out!

 

I'm glad I saw this post as well! I ended up upgrading my 2015 F-150 Platinum's Sony sub and amp with your directions ab46501! So happy with the output.

 

It really makes a big difference. Good to know this thread is still helping others out!

 

I recently bought my 2015 f150 lariat it doesn't have the 502a package but it does have the plug behind the rear driver back cover panel for the sub amp power supply . I found the factory amp and sub separately online , found the harness to connect the amp to the truck but when I got the amp I learned that it doesn't have the harness to connect to the sub . Does anyone have any idea the part number for the harness to connect from the amp to the sub .

 

Here is the wiring diagram that I have. Not sure if the numbers above some of the diagram wires indicate a part number or not since I was not looking for that.