I just bought a 2015 f150 xlt supercrew. It happens to have the middle jump seat up front. What is involved in swapping this out to the center console type. (shifter on column) the dealer was concerned with a airbag not working if they removed it, but I can't find one attached to the center section to worry about. According to my dealer the parts would be close to $1500, of course I would look for a third party or even a salvage yard, but it's still a lot of money just to find out it can't be done... Can anyone verify on way or the other?

 

I have the console in possession,
Got it off of eBay. The trim pieces for the dash I have on order. If it goes well I will try to install this weekend and update everyone with detailed pictures and information.

 

I did this swap last summer wasn't too bad. Definitely worth it.

 

Chanstine, how did you hook up the air ducts? It's the only thing I'm not sure of.

 

I didn't. You have pull up the flooring remove the ducts running under the flooring and seats. I didn't want to screw up my vinyl floor so I took the air ducts out of the console.

 

I have carpet, not that it is any easier, but do you know if everything is there to hook it up if I do pull the carpet back. I'd like to have them working, but hated to pull the carpet out only to find I'm missing a connector or something.

 

It looks like the ducts coming out of the center dash would connect directly to the ducts in the console.

 

Got it all installed and it looks great. So, here’s my guide that I promised. For total clarification, my vehicle is a 2015 F150 2wd supercrew with the 5.0 Engine and xlt base trim package, column shift. I removed the center jump seat, and installed a center console out of a 2015 f150 xl. First off I take no responsibility for you or your vehicle in any way shape or form. Follow at your own risk. I’ll try to give as many details as I can remember, you may have to figure out some minor stuff as you go but this is the main parts. You will need some basic skills and basic hand tools. Ratchet and metric sockets in, a small flat head screwdriver. And some other minor items I’ll explain as we go. I bought a complete console off of ebay $599 delivered, and the two trim pieces beside the radio that your vents come through, $121 from my local ford dealer. This is all I purchased. You will also need new screws for the console to bolt in with. I believe they are 8mm, but im not sure I just dug around in my junk drawer and found some that fit. I have the vents in the console working (the old style under the seats I removed) and one of the 12volt cigarette plugs (your choice which). I chose the one on the rear of the console but its up to you. The inside light I didn’t hook up. The second plug and light would require purchasing some MAJOR wiring changes because the plug going to the original seat is only wired for one plug, I opted to not use it. I would say using this guide it could be done in 3-5 hours depending on your skill set and experience. Set aside plenty of time and don’t rush it. If things are done wrong it could turn expensive in a hurry. While pulling on the plastic pieces use caution and some sense and don’t ****** on them. They are plastic and can break off tabs ruining them, you’ve been warned.
Lets begin, First and foremost REMOVE the POSITIVE battery terminal. You will be removing the seats and several plugs and having power could turn catastrophic. Now you will need to remove the main bezel around the radio. Start by gently prying up on the front (radio side) of the tray above the radio. There are 3 friction tabs. If you can get it high enough use your small screwdriver to touch the white tabs to free them one at a time. While carefully holding it up, you access the two screws holding the radio bezel. These are the only screws holding it, starting at the top pull out on the radio bezel until it snaps free. Remove the bottom two plugs leaving the top ones attached and set on top of the dash out of the way. Now work off the two trim bezels holding the vents, no screws just snaps and lay them aside. Now for the main seats, using your small screwdriver insert it into the snap to free it, then use the grey part of the plug as a cam lever to unsnap the plug. Remove the covers at the four corners of the seat and then the big screws, 11mm head I believe. Set the seat to the side, repeat for the other side. The center seat has 5 screws and one plug remove it and set aside. The bottom most plastic cover in the center has a small screw beside the gas pedal and a friction clip on the other side. Remove it (this piece will be discarded save the screw it will be needed). Now the 4 screws in the media tray and can be removed. Undo the plugs and set aside. Next is the carpet, in the door jam pry up the piece you step on to access where the carpet is clipped in. undo pull the carpet off the clips, and ease it out from under the kick panel. The driver side has an additional plug under the pedals, don’t lose it. Fold the carpet back enough to remove the U shaped vent piece. Now we have everything out, you can put the carpet and door jam pieces back in place. You will need an additional connector to hook the air vents in the console to the vent under the dash. I made mine using the duct that was removed. Cut off a 9 inch piece starting from the end that was connected to the dash unit. It will look like it has three sections. The section that is the most offset cut it off. Now we need to plug this hole. Using some the scrap pieces cut off a small section the will cover the hole and glue it on. Use something that is rated for high temp. I used RTV silicon, JB weld or the like would work as well. I let mine set overnight to ensure I didn’t smear it all over the truck, but use your sense and make sure it is dry before proceeding. Insert this into the console vent, with the side that was removed on the drivers side. Leave 6.75inches sticking out. Put a small screw into both sections to hold to keep it from pushing back further inside while you install it. I wrapped the joint with electrical tape to help seal it off but it really shouldn’t matter. Now take your jump seat that was removed and turn it upside down. Work of the back section and the passenger side panel. It doesn’t have to come all the way off, just need to access the cigarette plug and remove the entire harness from the seat. Plug this into your console on whichever plug you decided to use. If its the back one you want you will need to remove the back panel on the console(friction snaps) to get your hand in there to plug it in. Now get the media tray that has the usb/ line in square and the Cigarette plug. For the cigarette plug remove the center silver section first then the square plastic fitting, reinstall in the console. For the line in/usb just work it past the friction snaps and install it. Get your old trim bezel pieces and remove the vents and other things and install in the new pieces. Install them onto the dash. Now we are ready to work the console into place. Get it as close to the dash as possible while still being able to reach behind it and plug in the line in, usb, 12 volt plug. Don’t forget the plug for the second 12 volt plug from the other seat. Once you have these in, use a long screwdriver or something similar and while pushing the console into place, look from the driver side (there is a hole you can look at the vent connection) and help the two vent pieces mate together. Screw it into place on the seat rack, and into the dash (use two of the screws that came out of the media tray.) Put the trim pieces down the side of the console, on the driver side use the screw that we took out earlier, the passenger side just snaps on. Put your seats back in. At this point if you reinstall the radio and leave it, there will be aa 1.5 inch gap between the slide plate and the radio bezel. I didn’t like that so I made a piece to blend the gap. Get the media tray that the line in and usb came through. Carefully measure down from the top 1.5 inches and mark it all the way across. (((( NOTE!! I made a mistake here. If you look at the picture with the tape on mine, I went straight across all the way to the side making the edges shorter. Do not do that, it will look okay to anyone that doesn’t know it, but it can be better.))) On the sides measure down 1.5 as well, the line will curve downwards on the sides, this is what you want. I’m going to suggest using a THICK tape to mark the lines, this will give you a straight edge and give you just a slight bit of protection if you slip a bit with your cutting. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to do this. Now measure and mark the center best you can, and go out 1.625 each way from center and mark it. Come down from the top .750 and mark it. Use your tape and make a slight angle up the sides, and across the top. This will be the cutout for the slide tray access lip+your finger. Screw this piece in above the console using the earlier removed screws. (make sure the slide works as it should.) Reinstall the radio bezel, reattach the battery cable, ENJOY GUYS!



Carpet Clips




Media Tray Top 2 screws removed, bottom 2 still in. Bottom plastic cover removed.




Driver side section removed and plugged.




Close up of cutoff




Vent piece installed, and tapped (one screw is under the tape)




Trim bezel part numbers for beside the radio.




Without modeling piece under climate controls.




Notice i tapped straight across, dont do this, angle the edges to match the contour from the top.




3.75 wide angled inward




.750 from the top




1.5 high




Installed, notch cutout




Notice the gap in the corner, not bad, but preventable. Cutout in center for the tray lip.

 

I have 2015 XLT Supercrew with the jump seat. A co-worker got a 2016 with the console. After seeing his truck I decided I wanted to do the swap as well. Thanks to you and Chanstine for your posts. It made me jump ahead and order the console from Ebay.

It should be here next week. I was curious about the ducts. My co-workers truck with the console also has the ducts under the seat, as well as, on the console. We tested the HVAC modes for our theory which proved the under seat ducts are for heat, the console ducts are for A/C and vent. I noticed that ford parts sold an extension and connector for the A/C that fits above the existing heat ducts. I ordered those and hopefully there is a knock-out for the connection on the plenum, otherwise the flow through compatible plenum is around $76 bucks. I'll likely start a new thread when I move ahead with plenty of pics and info.

 

I'm a big guy with long legs and the console is a pain in the butt. I went out of my way to get a truck without one, which was harder than I thought. For what it's worth, i'm glad they make trucks without the console

How What did you do for the slot where the shifter is supposed to go? I thought all the trucks with the console had the shifter on it.

And how much total did this cost?

 

I'm a big guy with long legs and the console is a pain in the butt. I went out of my way to get a truck without one, which was harder than I thought. For what it's worth, i'm glad they make trucks without the console

How What did you do for the slot where the shifter is supposed to go? I thought all the trucks with the console had the shifter on it.

And how much total did this cost?

 

I paid $475, plus another $100 or so for trim parts. I take it you have the bench seat with the fold down middle? The existing jump seat is pretty big and useless.(unless you actually use it as a seat) It is almost too tall to use for drinks comfortably. I like using it for the arm rest so I rarely lift the seat back up to get to the storage under the seat. The center console should serve me much better. The front sits lower an doesn't really interfere with knees and such.

 

New to the forums, and I am doing this swap myself this week end on a 2017, I did want to tell you I appreciated the information, especially the part numbers for the dash pieces.

I did however want to pass along that I found these two pieces on a website called Tascapart.com The prices were 35.70, and 37.10 respectively. I ended up paying 8 dollars for shipping. So 83.00 is much better than what the stealership wanted at 70 a piece. I will post some information on how the parts are, as I never ordered from this place before, but the prices seemed great and the parts were in stock.

For anyone looking the part numbers for the left and right dash trim are

FL3Z-1504339-ED
FL3Z-1504338-DC

 

i have
done 2 F150's. Does not impact air bags at all. Just got a 2016 and doing it also. Very easy to do! Hard to find though.

 

Bamma07 I appreciate your instructions they were very helpful. I did the sway this past weekend. I wanted to add that I found the part number for the bottom piece that you fabricated. It was $29 from my local dealership. It uses the same screws as the sync trey. Attached are some pictures.