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crank sensor location

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Old 12-09-2017, 03:26 PM
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crank sensor location

hey any one know where the crank position sensor is located on a 2012 ecoboost code p0017
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:10 PM
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Driver's side in the very back. It sticks out of the block and reads a reluctor ring that fits over the end of the crankshaft. You should be able to reach it if you pull the driver's side front wheel off and snake your way to it. The other option is to drop the trans and get it from that way. Personally I'd attack it from the side instead of pulling the trans.
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:24 PM
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Thanks

Thanks a bunch I'm not 100 sure yet that's what it is truck started roughf this morning the spit and sputtered then stalled and then nothing I seem to have fuel but no fire
appreciate anything else you might think of
thanks a bunch
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:13 PM
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You should be able to find a wire connection and check the sensor without removing it. It's basically a magnetic switch that will produce a square wave signal if you hook a multi meter to it. Look online for a test procedure and what the signal strength should be. Other engines I have seen produce a 5 VDC signal, others make a high voltage A/C signal so be careful and keep it at cranking speed. I'm not sure how much that sensor costs. If it's only a few $$$ it might be easier to just change it rather than test. The other thing could be a broken or loose wire. Be careful before probing the circuits, some feed directly to the ECM and static electricity can cause big problems. Make sure to disconnect both ends of the wire before testing.
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 09:19 PM
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:25 AM
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thanks

right on well that's good new I guess appreciate the link
really hoping that's what it is, wonder if its a common problem? I've worked on the older fords but was scratching my head yesterday at this pretty hard truck had a bunch of codes but the p0017 was the latest the other codes were pretty much all the other cam sensors this is my first time using a forum can express enough my gratitude thx I'm gonna test it today cant get any parts until tomorrow here
just seemed weird to me how it started a couple times ran rough then wouldn't start at all
weird!
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:52 AM
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If you post all of the current codes, you may get better help.
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:05 AM
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codes

yeah suppose ur right
p0017,p0390, po369,p0365, p0299, p0394,
thanks
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:18 AM
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Go to www.obd-codes.com and look at all those codes. See what is in common between them all, read all the possible causes.
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:26 AM
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goog site

yeah that's pretty much what I've done that's a good site i'm leaning towards the crank positioning sensor seems to be the constant in the codes or an open wire somewhere just seemed weird how it quit and I have no fire now to the plugs now just seems like a lot of codes too really hoping the problem isn't bigger than that
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:39 PM
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can't locate

can not located this sensor I can find thye four cam sensors any ideas I took the wheel off cant see anything there that low for the cranks shaft sensor
any ideas not much on the internet for pics or videos or any thing really
its a 2012 f-150 3.5 L
thanks
 
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:05 PM
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It's on the side of the block at the very back about 1/2-2/3 the way up from the bottom. Find the seam between the engine and transmission, start following it up and you'll find it. The end points directly at the drive plate teeth. It's literally about a 1/2" from the aft face of the block, above the dowel pins for the trans.
 
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Old 12-11-2017, 05:25 PM
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got it

thanks for your help, its directly behind the turbo, inspection plate comes off then rubber plug comes out, found it got it out not easy,
any idea what I should have on the three wires for power? I believe one is a ground one is power and the other is the signal should I have 12v on two of the wires with the key on? I only have like 4.7v dc I just want to make sure its not something else besides the sensor
Thanks
Matt
 
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Old 12-12-2017, 11:59 AM
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I've seen the three wire versions before and they produce a higher voltage AC signal. One of the wires might be a shield wire. You'll have to check a schematic to verify this.
 



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