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2013 5.0L dead in the water ( no crank no start )

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  #1  
Old 12-03-2017, 02:43 PM
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2013 5.0L dead in the water ( no crank no start )

How does it break when it rarely gets used .

Well, I don't drive it a whole lot but I put 107 miles on it within the last month. Last time I ran it was to spin it around in the driveway and pulled into my garage. Now I have a no crank issue. It doe not even want to try cranking, and it is throwing every warning light at me.

See the video below for exactly what its doing.

It runs 12.3v with the key off, 11.8v with it on. Thinking perhaps that was too low to crank from, I tried to jump it properly, and doing this even with 14v at the battery it would not attempt to crank. I have some more fuses to look at and want to check starter connections, and the hammer tap test, but that is all I could do quickly at the time. Is there an issue going around with these trucks I may have missed? ( like the fuel module on the '04/'08s ).

I am fearing a ECU or BCM issue. It isn't custom tuned, runs every time flawless, garage kept, so i'm shocked it won't even crank. I only have 1 key for it so I can't try using another, and there isn't a security light on.

Thanks for any input folks.
-DarrenWS6
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 04:49 PM
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All I can think of is to try a different battery? Or, it's like you think about the ECU... Or ???

Good luck!

Mitch
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 06:24 PM
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ECU or BCM issue is my guess as of now. I unhooked the negative terminal earlier and left it off all day. About to go re-connect it and play with it some more.

Found this clip that seems somewhat hopeful. In the comments the OP claims the harness pins came loose and was a simple fix. Then again its a Super Duty and not a 150.
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:13 PM
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I'd look at battery first, storage is tough on batteries. I'll double down on my guess if it's original battery still.
 
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:32 PM
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Do you have a battery charger to throw on it? I agree that it sounds like a dead battery. Sometimes if a battery drops too low it takes a few minutes for a jump to work.
 
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:41 AM
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With 12.3v i imagine it would crank. I tried jumping it with my car, 14v right to the battery and truck still wouldnt crank.
 
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:13 AM
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I would charge the battery and get it load tested. I've had a motorcycle battery that checked 12.6 volts but when I hit start everything died. The starter would not even click. Eliminate the battery first.
 
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
With 12.3v i imagine it would crank. I tried jumping it with my car, 14v right to the battery and truck still wouldnt crank.
Voltage is only half of the story. It takes Amps and a lot of them to turn the starter. The lights on the dash etc take very little power so a weak battery will power them just fine but do nothing for the starter. If the battery is nearly drained it might take a good 5-10 minutes to get charged enough to turn the starter.
 
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:30 PM
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Its also possible for a battery to be "so bad" that jumping it doesn't help, if the battery is causing enough of a drain on the combined vehicle systems while jumping, it may still not have enough power to turn over.

Unplug one side of your battery, attempt a jump to both cables (with one unplugged from the battery) to eliminate your battery from the combined system
 
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Old 12-05-2017, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
With 12.3v i imagine it would crank. I tried jumping it with my car, 14v right to the battery and truck still wouldnt crank.
What does the voltage look like with Key On / Engine Off? That may be enough of a load to show the voltage plummeting
 
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:31 PM
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I put it back on the battery tender tonight, lets see what happens.

Before that, I attempted to jump the starter solenoid with a small screw driver, I was able to get the starter to turn, but the truck was not willing to fire and run. Still dead in the water. After my tender reads full charge if it does not want to crank, i'll pull the battery and have it tested.

To me, it seems like communication from ignition to starter is lost. Which makes me fear a body control module or chip/vats issue, but again, no security light.

Originally Posted by Patman
What does the voltage look like with Key On / Engine Off? That may be enough of a load to show the voltage plummeting

Key on it was 11.8v.
 
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:15 PM
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Thanks for the update so far
 
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:08 PM
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No problem. I tried again with 13v from the battery, nothing. I heard the sped up chime before getting a multi meter reading so I knew it wouldn't start.

I also studied the security light, it is not blinking rapidly when the key is on.
 
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:43 AM
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With no mileage on the cluster, there's no communication on the network to let the cluster know the mileage, check the bcm, located behind the kick panel right front floor board check all connectors and make sure they are properly seated.
 
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:55 PM
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Still dead in the water, haven't messed with it since I don't need it on the daily. Now that the holidays are just about over with I will probably be getting it down to the dealership to it next week.

Originally Posted by streetracer1232
With no mileage on the cluster, there's no communication on the network to let the cluster know the mileage, check the bcm, located behind the kick panel right front floor board check all connectors and make sure they are properly seated.
Everything appeared well seated. It does have a mileage count when the key is off, but once turned it is blank. Would that still be somewhat related to BCM? The drivers seat still moves forward and I can still make adjustments in the drivers info center.
 



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