My shop does similar work ;-)



These came off the 73 pantera they were going to do.

 

 

You have a link for the wrap? Might have to steal it for my truck

 

Haha. its just a matte blue metallic.

I'm having some serious difficulty trying to figure out what to do with my radio situation.

I have a 2011 Platinum with the early Ford MySync navigation unit, which SUCKS. Originally I had planned on swapping it out for a large screen aftermarket android navigation unit, like one of these:

https://www.seicane.com/8-inch-2009-...up-camera-c222

The problem is, I dont think that I can. I have a platinum, so the hvac controls and seat heater control and all that go through the factory nav. I wouldnt mind losing it to gain the android radio, but I dont think its as simple as swapping to that unit due to the wiring harness and modules that control those features.

So now I'm lost. I use waze and spotify daily in my other vehicles. So far the best idea I have is using the costal air lockpick to wirelessly mirror my phone screen to the unit... but that sucks because obviously the touch controls arent mirrored. and youd have to use your phone for EVERYTHING.

https://www.coastaletech.com/syncair.htm

Anyone have ANY other solutions?

 

Wheels & tires are done, but of course the truck isn’t ready. I have one of the best fabricator / mechanics doing all the installs.

The Full Race GT Turbos are quite disappointing, and not “drop in.” I had to take one of the turbos out the new ones don’t have the diverted valves or the provisions for the boost controller. Had to drill and tap the compressor housing for the boost signal.

62mm compressor wheel on the left. Way smaller as you can see… nice billet wheel though.

Not sure where they want you to run a line from somewhere else or why you would. And since the diverted valves are gone since there is the aftermarket bov the intake tubes have caps.
The new ones have no diverter at all, But they still need **** for the boost controller. Picture shows New nice tapped hole for boost reference.

That line will run to the fitting I just tapped in. These covers don’t have a provision to tap in the same location the aluminum is too thin for my liking.

 

More problems:

I put the BOV on and it hits the intake pipe. Assuming the mix match of 2011 and 2013+ parts clearly werent meant to be used together.

Decided to weld the intercooler shut and weld a new flange on that intake pipe.

Lift kit is on. Slowly but surely this one year project is getting finished (ha)

 

I've got my own project going now finally, you're much further along then me so far

https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...te-patman.html

 

Black and white, like it

 

Wow. Nice. Where did you get the 5.0?

 

Merry Christmas. From: Me. To: Me



Put in the MPT Base tune, and things seemed to be running fine, except a couple problems. When we first put everything together and the tune on, the charge pipe from the lower intercooler to the throttle body kept blowing off. So I super clamped it on there, and now I'm having a different issue.

As you know, my truck is a 2011. I put in full race turbos that were meant for a 2013. The 2011s obviously had a BOV on each turbo, where the 2013 Style has a single on the intercooler (which I upgraded.)

The shop that did the install tapped both turbos for a boost signal. As soon as the truck builds a few PSI, it immediately cuts out and throttles off. It almost feels like its sensing overboosting and then cutting the throttle immediately. Then after cutting out it'll stall at stop lights until I cycle the ignition once or twice.

The shop says they think its from twin boost controllers and the single blow off. Like both controllers trying to do 1 job? Two cotnrollers telling 1 valve what to do. They said both controllers are tee'd to the new single blow off valve.

Also, maybe the intercooler is clogged? Coils or plugs bad (they were new plugs, gapped properly, I think.) There still are no check engine lights either. I have a very good scanner at work, and am going to scan all systems. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

 

I picked it all up at a junk yard in Houston a few months before Harvey hit

 

Ok, some of the vacuum lines were messed up. Whew, easy save. Put her back in the shop. Did the following items:

Flushed all fluids - trans, front & rear diff, oil, transfer case, cooling system.
Replaced rear end cover.
Replaced electric steering gear. Also replaced LF CV Axle, RF Axle, and front axle intermediate shaft tube and bearing.
Replaced rear driveshaft.
New colder Motorcraft plugs gapped at .30 installed
160 degree thermostat
Decided NOT to install the catch can. (may be for sale.)
Installed BakFlip G2 tonneau cover.
Replaced Anzo junk LED tail lights... with the same ones. Siliconed them this time.
LED 3rd brake light with LED cab lights.
Installed LED interior lights.
Replaced the hood switch, removed and replaced the RKE to enable remote start again (WOOHOO.)
Replaced the drivers seat module (no heat/cooling either side)
Replaced a wiring short in passenger bed side.
Painted inner rear fenders with undercoat (Whoever said raptor rear liners fit lied)
Replaced both mirrors. Installed LED turn signals, LED front signals, and LED puddle lights.
Installed the front bumper lower skid plate.
Replaced all door weather stripping, replaced all the sunroof drain tubes (one was clogged)

Should be ready to datalog and get the final tune in soon.

 

Still moving on truck. Have lower front bumper piece finally mounted. I installed Smoked LEDs into the front and rear turn signals. Replaced ALL the lines with silicone and serious t-clamps. Took a few quick pictures before I send her back into my shop to fix the following issues

Figure out where water in interior is coming. Pull carpet, look under sill plates. Dump water on windshield and 3rd brake light. DRY CARPET W FANS
Replace BOV line with MAP sensor adaptor. Replace/correct cut line to boost control
Replace front trans cooler line. Flush & Filter w/ Mercon LV – use 1 qt lucas
Pull Rear Diff cover and inspect. Odd shake when wheels turns moving from a stop. Flush again. Check Drain fill tube.
Amsoil Oil Change & Filter - > Send Blackstone Oil Out for Analysis
Install LED Fogs & Front Light Bar Behind Lower Grill. Run to OEM Fog Light switch. Use Relays
Replace Spark Plugs w/ SP-542s. ***GAP TO .025!!!!!!***
Install factory 2 way way remote start system per instructions
Clean/Replace Drivers outer reverse sensor
Check drivers lower control arm / bushings for noise when wheel turned and hit a bump
Drivers window sporadic – probably related to water issue.
Find coolant leak.



to do after:
replace LH tail light… again. Seal w/ silicone.
Lower front bumper attachment
Forscan out the hyperflash.

 

Just finished the timing assembly on my 2011 F150 w/ 2013 full race gt turbos. Let me tell you, its a bitch but not impossible. Parts were around $1300, all ford OEM, the alldata is way incorrect, and there's way more to do than whats stated. When we took the front cover off, I had about a half inch of sag and play and the adjuster was broken. My truck was at the point that I could hardly drive it. Decided to replace every seal, o-ring, gasket, water pump and everything else since I'll be keeping it a while. Fired it up, and its like a brand new truck now. Labor was one genius technician at my shop for about 2-3 full days by himself. If anyone in Cleveland Ohio needs it done, let me know.

 

Hi guys. Its been a ridiculously long time, but I have changed up the truck quite extensively and now have it listed for sale:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/tr...-1k-miles.html