6r80 transmission
#1
6r80 transmission
G'Day Guys ( and Girls ) My 2010 F150 Platinum has developed the dreaded Bulhead Connector Sleeve leak on the transmission. Apparently this is a common fault with these transmisions. I have just covered 21,000 klm in this vehicle and I love it. I just got home from a 7,500 caravan holiday and noticed trans fluid on the floor. Examination and reference to Forum confirms it is the Bulkhead Connector Sleeve. Question - where the bloody hell do I buy one from and what is the part number? I've searched the internet to try and source the part, but I've failed miserably. Bear in mind I am in Australia. Any info will be appreciated.
#2
My neighbor had this issue on his '09 and we used high temp RTV to make a new O-ring seal for the connector. It worked great on his truck. You might be able to do that or contact Tasca Ford Parts. They are a sponsor here and have always done me right. Shipping to you might be a little bit more or they could just give you the seal part number and you can source it locally.
#5
#6
Thanks very much fellas, I really appreciate the feedback. nscirocco you got a bargain it is going to cost me over $90 AUD here in OZ. You guys have got the best truck in the world and cheap parts as well. I've also got the best truck in the world, but it cost me $120,00 AUD and parts cost a bomb. It's worth it!
#7
I changed mine this weekend. It's pretty straightforward if you watch the youtube vids beforehand. The hardest part is refiling the trans, the exhaust is *really* hot there.. i had to use some nomex racing gloves. I ended up overfilling it and had to remove some with a large syringe.
The pan gasket is re-usable but i should have bought a new one, the rubber was cracked in a few places. I patched the cracks with a bit of rtv, hope it doesn't leak.
The pan gasket is re-usable but i should have bought a new one, the rubber was cracked in a few places. I patched the cracks with a bit of rtv, hope it doesn't leak.
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#8
Tried to do this repair and the fill plug stripped out. I can turn it both directions and it won't come out. Any ideas? Thought about the oversized plug like in an oil pan stripped plug. I just wouldn't be able to put the dipstick back in. If anyone has ran into this or has advise please let me know. Thank you.
#9
Presumably you have replaced the connector and are on your way out? If so I reckon you will need to drop the pan again and tap out the cap from the inside with a rod. Tap a new thread in the dipstick plug. Get the corresponding sump plug to fit. Keep the dipstick in a safe place. Thoroughly flush to get rid of any metal including the pan. That should do the trick. You don't lift weights by any chance; you must have got serious with the filler cap in order to strip it!
#10
Unfortunately it happened before any work could get done. My brother-in-law who is a mechanic was doing the work. I guess he got confused on the whole lefty loosie thing. He tightened instead and I heard a pop. Now the nut just turns. We thought we drop the pan and tap up from the inside but the dipstick won't come out without the plug out first. I live two hours away from him so I left it with him. He and my father -in law are going to try and put a vise grip on the nut and try and tap up while turning (hopefully the right direction) to get it out. He says he could get on oversized oil drain plug to fit in. And like you said, put the dipstick somewhere inside the truck for when it's needed.
#11
Oh well, at least you are on your way in. Yes I can see the problem in tapping it out from the inside because of the dipstick. They may have to use a piece of steel tube which fits over the shaft of the dipstick. It could wreck the dipstick, but you should be able to replace it. In defence of your BIL the thread is very fine and would strip fairly easily if Arnie Schwarzenegger was using the spanner!! I did mine OK and fitted a 23,000 BTU B&M transmission cooler to it while I was at it. Bypassing the water radiator was a real priority for me. I now have peace of mind. No milkshake in my tranny.
#12
#13
By train body do you mean the hollow part that the dipstick fits into?
I didn't realise it wasn't all cast as one. If this is the case I would reposition the hollow portion onto the bolt and silver solder the 2 together. You will need oxy acetylene for this. Alternatively take it to a welder who uses a Tig welder and get it done there. It would probably be stronger for Arny.
Tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree.
I didn't realise it wasn't all cast as one. If this is the case I would reposition the hollow portion onto the bolt and silver solder the 2 together. You will need oxy acetylene for this. Alternatively take it to a welder who uses a Tig welder and get it done there. It would probably be stronger for Arny.
Tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree.
#14
I've just realised you may be saying tranny body. Oh dear. If this is the case then you would need to get a tap which suits a drain plug the next size up from the stripped hole you've got and tap the tranny body. Not easy, but not impossible either. Your BIL ( Arny ) will have to thoroughly clean everything so that there are no remaining metal filings.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#15
I've just realised you may be saying tranny body. Oh dear. If this is the case then you would need to get a tap which suits a drain plug the next size up from the stripped hole you've got and tap the tranny body. Not easy, but not impossible either. Your BIL ( Arny ) will have to thoroughly clean everything so that there are no remaining metal filings.
Good luck.
Good luck.