Got up to leave to go to work this morning... Doors wouldn't unlock.
Tried keypad, no go.... used key to unlock door... Everything is dead. The dash/guage lights are flickering.

Dead battery already? Got out my voltmeter... 12.3Volts... should be more than enough to crank the truck and definitely more than enough to run electronics.

hooked up battery charger and it started surging... lights started blinking like the hazard lights were on, and the needle on the charger was surging... so I unplugged it.

I guess it could be going bad Seems like at only 2 years old it would be fine...

going out there to try to jump it off..

 

update.... hooked up jumpers and it cranked right up...

but when I hooked up the cables, the flashers started flashing. Did the same when I hooked up the battery charger.

 

Update again.... Took it to have the battery load tested.... tested as a good battery... truck is cranking and running fine now...

nothing was left on.

When I hooked the jumper cables up to my wifes car, the hazard lights started all flashing again...

It did the same when I hooked up the battery charger. Is that some kind of code?

 

12.3V is actually a fairly low battery state, maybe below 75%. A fully charged battery in a resting state should be 12.7V, but, your opening doors, etc., will knock it down even if it was good before you started.

My truck and cars do not activate the flashers when I connect a charger. A surging needle could be caused by you charging at a 10A rate and it senses the battery is charged, so it cuts the charge power, then it senses the battery needs a little more and it repeats. If you have a 2A setting on the charger, use that.

- Jack

 

It sounds like you might have a bad connection between one of the battery posts and the battery clamps. I'd take the clamps off and clean the connections well (including the inside of the clamps), them put some battery grease on the posts and clamps and then reassemble and try it again.

PS bad clamp connection could also explain the low battery voltage since the battery may not be getting charged enough due to the same problem.

 

Both terminals are clean and well connected... Was First thing I tried. Not my first rodeo.

 

update... everything has functioned as normal since yesterday, after jumping it off...

Aside from a low tire pressure warning, even though, they all look the same as they did yesterday and the day before... going to check air pressure when I get home.

 

parking lights could flash from an alarm system with low volts. May you just left the 4 ways on?? a battery can read 12 v but not have any amps= bad battery

 

^ Checked, 4-way's were not on. I've never even cut them on.

Had the battery load tested... it tested as a good battery.

 

I had the same issue 2 years ago. Dealership couldn't figure it out. They replaced the battery. Worked for about 3 weeks. Happened again. Replaced battery again. Fine since this morning... door didn't unlock, key didn't turn over engine, took key out and dashboard looked like a strobe light.
Did they ever find out what the real issue was? A faulty fuse/connection? Or just haven't had an issue since?

 

Had a similar problem. Battery tested good, alternator tested good. Yet while driving using a Scangauge, the system would start to lose voltage, then get it back. If you were on the downside of it, the starter would drag like a almost dead battery. Replaced the alternator- problem solved. NEVER replace an alternator on any Ford product with a rebuilt unit. Always buy new. No rebuilder tests or replaces the final diode set and this is the biggest failure for a Ford alternator. It will charge when running but will slowly discharge when not running. It will flatten most batteries in 3 days. The battery usually shows as good but needing a charge. The problem with mine was it would charge while driving, then totally quit while running, then turn itself back on.

 

I have a 2013 Eco F150 here and I just experienced this tonight for the first time. the battery was changed 3 months ago. battery and alternator tested good. connections tight. any solutions would be appreciated.

 

Folks, have you not learned yet that these trucks have computer battery management (BMS)?
You cannot just replace batteries and Alternators any longer to solve what you saw happening like on older trucks.
There are codes for the battery system and charge control and reset done when changing these parts (if they need it) or it falls back to the same issue you think you fixed. Charging a battery does not fix the cause if it is not the battery.
Most parts stores are not equipped or even know about this yet.
With this system the battery is not charged to the state of the old systems, to increase life, by design..
Your being left behind due to lack of knowledge.
Good luck.