I keep seeing Aux Reverse Light Wiring Quesitons. So I am posting the diagram of how mine are done. They are wired so they turn on three differant ways. They come on when the truck is put in reverse, They come on with a rocker switch I hid in the back of the right dash pocket (Only when the ignition is on), They also come on with the Dome Light Supervision circut. This is what lights up your trucks headlights, dome light, and cargo light when you unlock via the keyfob. There is also wiring with the second relay to stop this dome light circut from lighting the Aux lights while the ignition is on. There for when your truck is running and you open the door they will stay dark instead of lighting up at that time. If you only want one or two of the three options just remove that trigger from the equasion. If you don't want the dome light supervision then you can also remove the second relay and the capacitor from the first relay. The Diodes are needed to stop any back feeding from one trigger to the other. The Capasitor is needed due to how the dome light fades up and fades down so the relays don't make a crazy noise during the fade since it's done with pulses and quickly turns the relays on and off. Before you ask yes you need to run a relay with dedicated power to your Aux lights in any configuration they will be brighter, and cause less stress on your trigger wire from the OEM harness. Feel free to ask questions...

 

If you lived closer I'd pay you to wire mine up for me :-)

Thanks for the diagram user_error, maybe I can make sense of it with a few less jim beams in me.

 

Hrmm... I could prewire the relays/ Diodes and Capasitors and tag them where all you had to do was connect the proper few wires to rat tails... ? Or if you tackle it and need some help lemme know...

 

Bump, thread being searched for...

 

I would interested in a wiring setup as well

 

What all do you need help with? or are you wanting it all done and just connect a few wires? What year and model truck?

 

I could probably find the relays online. But soldering the diodes, and putting them onto the proper relay are a a bit out of my realm.

 

User Error, PM sent.

 

Man the site unsubscribed me from the thread... I haven't seen any of these posts... I'm back around again... re-subscribed...

 

Could you list the parts and prices of everything you used for the lights? I'd probably be doing all three options as well and I have an 05 Lariat if that helps.

 

Shopping list goes as follows...

2- 5 Pin Relays 5-7$ ea
3- 1n4004 Diodes couple of bucks from radio shack they come in packs of 2
1- 1000uf Capacitor Buck or two radio shack
1- Toggle Switch 5-7$ea
1- Set Back Up Lights $30 ebay only place I can find the ones I like these days that mount to the draw tite hitch
1- Inline Fuse $5-7
1- Add a fuse 7$ Napa (easiest way to pull ignition power without cutting stock wires)
10-20 Blue Heat Shrink Butt Connectors I buy in bulk online
11- Blue shielded Spade Connectors or 2- Relay Wire Harness and 3 spades for the toggle switch I buy in bulk online
1 Large Ring Terminal to connect inline fuse to battery I buy in bulk online
3 Small Ring Terminals to make grounds I buy in bulk online
3 Self Tapping Sheet Metal Screws with drill bit on the tip I buy in bulk
Large handful of Zip Ties I buy in bulk
Roll of Electrical tape or Heat shirk depending on if you're going to butt connect in the capacitor or soldier it in..
20-30 Feet of wire matching gauge to what's on the reverse lights...
1- T-Tap to splice into the Dome light wire... I use the single wire ones that use a male spade to plug into.

I think that should do it...

 

User_Error,
I like the wiring approach you've taken as it really has the most flexibility and options. Thank you also for including a seamingly complete parts list. This is a Mod I'd like to add to my truck but I'll have to find and work with a local shop to execute the wiring.

If you had a minute or two could you take a stab at calculating the shop time it might take to duplicate your wiring? I can only imagine the tech at the shop would have a field day figuring this out.

 

Prolly 2-3 hours... Having done several of these I think I could knock it out in 1.5 hours on a good day... so Three hours would be the super Max for a first timer... If you're going to pay a shop... find a Good Car Audio Shop with a Real Good Alarm/ Remote Start Installer... Best suited guy for the job... He'll be real familier with all the parts and how they need to be installed...

I've also changed up the lights I use... I went to a new LED light on the bumper and they are stupid bright... The are 4 inch small versions of the huge light bar's everyone's putting on their roofs... ebay look up 18w LED Light Bar.. There is an OEM bolt under the rear bumper on each side perfect to mount these new lights...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-18W-Cree-Flood-LED-Work-Light-Bar-Offroad-Lamp-Car-Jeep-Motor-Mine-1800LM-20w-/161328838961?fits=Model%3AF-150&hash=item258ff2b931