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-   -   Leveling kit install on 09+ F150's... (https://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2014-f-150/408607-leveling-kit-install-09-f150s.html)

freekyFX4 Mar 2, 2010 12:06 AM

Leveling kit install on 09+ F150's...
 
...is much more difficult than on the 04-08 F150! The 04-08 F150 had an aluminum lower control arm. The 09-10 F150 has a stamped steel lower control arm. I had installed a 2.5" AS kit on my 04 F150 all alone, and it was WAY easier than the 2" Hell Bent Steel kit that Borv and I installed on his 09 F150 today. The way that the new lower control arm is stamped makes it very hard to get the lower strut mount back into place to get the bolt through it. Now I understand why most people do the 1.5" or the 2" on the 09-10. We had a blast doing the install though. I am sure Borv will post up some pictures soon.:thumbsup:

Desert Dawg Mar 2, 2010 12:45 AM

Sounds like a lot more work but looking forward to seeing how it turned out!

Borv Mar 2, 2010 06:08 AM

I'll take some pics when the alignment is done, maybe clean her up too. But yeah, we should've maybe rented that spring compressor. ;)

ibcop Mar 2, 2010 09:26 AM

Those 2 1/2" spacers are no joke to get in! But it is worth it once ya get done! :thumbsup:

used2vtec Mar 2, 2010 10:34 AM

Im going with 2 inch HBS myself, ill be paying someone to put it on. I live in a condo and my truck barely fits in the driveway :(.

jmonis21 Mar 2, 2010 11:02 AM

Yep installed the 2.5 last weekend and had to take the inner front of the lower control arm off to get enough room for it to go back in. Even with that it took three of us prying and kicking. A spring compresser probably will do the trick.

freekyFX4 Mar 2, 2010 03:28 PM


Originally Posted by jmonis21 (Post 4115355)
Yep installed the 2.5 last weekend and had to take the inner front of the lower control arm off to get enough room for it to go back in. Even with that it took three of us prying and kicking. A spring compresser probably will do the trick.

We considered doing that on the driver's side, but we ended up getting it in without it. I got an 8' 2x4 and a long piece of 1" square steel tube and stuck them through the LCA, and I stood on that to flex the LCA down. The first side took about 2 hours because we had to run to the auto parts store to get a 30mm socket. The second side took about an hour. It wasn't too bad, but I certainly could not have done it alone. Anyone considering doing this on his own, be sure to have a friend around.

GS357 Mar 2, 2010 07:21 PM

2.5
 
What tools are needed to do the 2.5 kit on a 2009-2010? 30mm? Would have to go buy that one.

Borv Mar 2, 2010 08:19 PM

Here are the torque specs:

Upper strut mounting studs ………………………………….. 47 ft-lbs
Shock Absorber-to-Lower Arm Nut and Bolt……….….. 351 ft-lbs
Stabilizer Bar Link -to-Lower Arm Nut ……………..……. 66 ft-lbs
Tie-Rod End Nut ………….………………………………………111 ft-lbs
Upper Ball Joint Nut …………………..………………………… 85 ft-lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts ……………..…………………………………. 150 ft-lbs

Tools you'll need:

torque wrench (don't worry about the 351, just tighten it as hard as you can)
15mm socket
18mm deep socket
27mm wrench or socket
30mm socket
10mm and 8mm socket if you want to pull the brake line loose
Flathead screwdriver
Tire iron or have the socket for your wheel nuts
spring compressor (not required, but to make life easier)
2 jacks at least or 1 jack and a couple jack stands, or a lift if you have a shop :P
blocks for the tires

IronMedic Mar 2, 2010 08:23 PM

hmmm ill have a shop do it for me when i get my upgraded tires.

jmonis21 Mar 2, 2010 08:52 PM

Yeah same here. First side about two hours and second about an hour. Sat there for an hour on the first side trying to figure out how we could possibly get it in. I had a 2x4 also to pry on the lower control arm and an ax handle prying on the strut pushing it in. Yes need at least two people. They weren't lying when they said the lower shock bolt is VERY tight. If it wasn't for my cousin weighing 315lbs to stand on the cheater bar I don't think mine would have came loose.

GS357 Mar 2, 2010 09:42 PM

Thanks Borv
 

Originally Posted by Borv (Post 4116170)
Here are the torque specs:

Upper strut mounting studs ………………………………….. 47 ft-lbs
Shock Absorber-to-Lower Arm Nut and Bolt……….….. 351 ft-lbs
Stabilizer Bar Link -to-Lower Arm Nut ……………..……. 66 ft-lbs
Tie-Rod End Nut ………….………………………………………111 ft-lbs
Upper Ball Joint Nut …………………..………………………… 85 ft-lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts ……………..…………………………………. 150 ft-lbs

Tools you'll need:

torque wrench (don't worry about the 351, just tighten it as hard as you can)
15mm socket
18mm deep socket
27mm wrench or socket
30mm socket
10mm and 8mm socket if you want to pull the brake line loose
Flathead screwdriver
Tire iron or have the socket for your wheel nuts
spring compressor (not required, but to make life easier)
2 jacks at least or 1 jack and a couple jack stands, or a lift if you have a shop :P
blocks for the tires

Thanks Borv. Geat Post :thumbsup: Only missing the 30mm socket

wisconsinFX4 Mar 2, 2010 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by GS357 (Post 4116339)
Thanks Borv. Geat Post :thumbsup: Only missing the 30mm socket

it's 5th on the list...

Westpoint Mar 2, 2010 09:50 PM

I did mine last month and we spent about 30 min trying to get it in and then I reread the the directions and it said to place a bottle jack on top of the lower control arm. once we did that it went right in. The first side took about an hour and a half the second took about a half hour.

jmonis21 Mar 2, 2010 10:06 PM


Originally Posted by Westpoint (Post 4116359)
I did mine last month and we spent about 30 min trying to get it in and then I reread the the directions and it said to place a bottle jack on top of the lower control arm. once we did that it went right in. The first side took about an hour and a half the second took about a half hour.

So you put the jack in between the lower and upper control arms to separate them? I never thought about reading the directions! Maybe too many beers!:beers:


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