Is the bumper on a 2008 rated for 5000 lbs towing? The older trucks bumpers were only rated for maybe 2,000 lbs unless you had that optional massive bumper. The class III hitch is usually rated for 5,000 lbs towing unless you add the weight distributing hitch equipment.

If I were in his situation, I'd still probably just slap a 2" ball on the bumper and get a uHaul trailer. If I only had to tow it 30 miles, I wouldn't be too concerned about being a few hundred pounds over the max weight. Hell, Class III/IV hitches weren't even common until the late 90's where guys were towing everything with bumper-mounted hitch balls for decades. I wouldn't recommend it for a permanent solution, and wouldn't advise doing it for longer hauls where the risk exposure is higher, but for a 30 minute drive, it's probably not the end of the world.

Another option, is to go to Enterprise and rent a truck with a hitch to tow it. Probably less than $50/day. Rent the trailer from uHaul is another $60 or so. He can have it home for less than $120.

I've seen some bent bumpers caused by people trying to tow too much weight with a bumper hitch.

My 2003 bumper has 5000# stamped right on it so I assume the 2008 should be the same.

I think that the original poster wants the cheapest way to do it himself, and he's seeking validation. He's hoping that someone will reassure him that it will be fine. Of course, we've all got a different outlook. The main consideration here is budget. His son doesn't have the money.

Cheapest way is his buddy's tow dolly on the bumper ball. I'd replace the 1 7/8" ball with a 2" if the dolly is compatible. Tow rear wheels down and drop the rear driveshaft. Drive carefully and do NOT try to back the rig up. With a dolly, the weight on the ball will be less than with a trailer and should not exceed 500#, which is the limit on the bumper.

Finally, someone suggests dropping the rear axle, but, since the truck has a manual shift, is this really needed? I'm in glc's camp though when he suggests using the dolly and a bumper ball. The distance is not excessive and the OP says he'll avoid hills. Driving at or below 45 and not backing up should be OK.

- Jack

Dropping the rear driveshaft is just a safety precaution.

Sounds reasonable. I towed an automatic once with the driveshaft disconnected.

One caution to the OP if you decide to tow with a bumper mounted hitch ball. In addition to not backing up, I'd try to avoid making any sharp turns since that puts sideways stress on your bumper (which it's not designed for).

- Jack

Well, I learned something about my truck. The bumper is rated for 5k lbs towing according to the info stamped into the rubber cover.

We towed it home last night, he removed the entire drive shaft and I borrowed a tow dolly from a friend, I read the bumper, a trailer and that 89 would have exceeded the weight limit, but a dolly didn't so now its sitting in the yard
Now the fun begine I have a 26 foot long garage to put a 20 foot truck in and rip the engine apart preying to Henry Ford that all he did was blow the head gaskets and not the water jackets or heads, I have a fear though , last time it started it laid a smoke screen like a WWI destroyer squadron that smelled like burnt oil and antifreeze

Congratulations on getting it home! Good Luck on the repair! If that engine is damaged beyond repair, you should be able to get a rebuildable long block from a salvage yard cheap.

Ford 302's are a dime a dozen on CL, you can probably pick up a running long block for $500. If he did in fact crack the block.

Edit: didn't actually see you mention his particular engine. If it's the I6, it might be tougher to find.

Post #13 says it's a 302.

I thought I had read that it was a 302, but when I went back I couldn't find it. Makes it fairly easy to grab another used one locally if his son did grenade the current engine.