Ball Joints wearing out with leveling kit! Help!
#1
Ball Joints wearing out with leveling kit! Help!
Hey guys, I've got a 2004 F150 4x4 with the rough country 2.5" leveling kit. The kit looks great on my truck, but I think it is wearing out my ball joints. I have read where other guys have had the same issue. My second set of ball joints lasted about 10-15k miles. This last time I replaced them with Moog greasable ball joints, and I greased them every 5k miles. The uppers are already shot. Has anyone found a fix for this issue? I have looked at buying different upper control arms. Has this solved anyone's problem? Which control arm are you using? I don't want to put much money into it. Thanks for your help!
#3
Do you off road or ride on rough roads often? Even with the front lifted 2.5", that's still extremely fast to wear out moog problem solver bj's. Are the UCA's hitting the spring too?
The only cheap fix would be lowering it slightly to a 1" or 1.5" spacer.
There are definitely other options, but they will cost a lot more. How much are you looking to spend?
The only cheap fix would be lowering it slightly to a 1" or 1.5" spacer.
There are definitely other options, but they will cost a lot more. How much are you looking to spend?
#4
I'm running a 2.5" spacer. The control arm is rubbing the spring occasionally. I don't off-road my truck much. Just riding around the farm and hunting. I really don't want to spend much. I've seen some control arms for a little over $200. Seems pricey compared to the Moog control arms. I don't know what to do.
#5
If you don't want to spend much, if say just get some slightly smaller spacers, replace the bad ball joints and call it a day.
Do you need the 2.5" of lift for larger tires, clearance, etc? Or do you just like the look?
Also, are you sure you weren't mistakenly sent a 3" level? Those always seem to cause damage. A 2" should cause no problems but the 2.5" could vary.
Do you need the 2.5" of lift for larger tires, clearance, etc? Or do you just like the look?
Also, are you sure you weren't mistakenly sent a 3" level? Those always seem to cause damage. A 2" should cause no problems but the 2.5" could vary.
Last edited by 2008_XL; 03-03-2016 at 02:16 PM.
#6
Remember, F-150 Ball Joints have been problematic for a number of years - even without a lift kit. I replaced one of the uppers on my 2010 with only 42,000 miles on the truck and screamed bloody murder about how **** poor the design was. The other side went less than 5,000 miles later.
If you ask me, ball joints - unless you have a snow plow or a lift kit - should be at least an 80,000 mile wear item. Not any more. Same goes for wheel bearings, but don't get me started.
If you ask me, ball joints - unless you have a snow plow or a lift kit - should be at least an 80,000 mile wear item. Not any more. Same goes for wheel bearings, but don't get me started.
#7
I have comparable lift on my 05 and I don't have any issues with the control arm rubbing the springs, haven't had any ball joint issues yet. Only time I've seen mine hit the spring is when I was installing my coilovers. Do you drive any hunting trails that cause you to reach full droop often? Even thst I wouldn't think would be enough stress on them to cause such early failure
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#9
I guess I take it off road more than I realize. I'm always running around the farm in my truck. I have looked at a couple of the uniball control arms. I really don't want to spend that much money on UCAs though. The ones I'm eyeing right now are the pro comp uniball($600) and the tuff country($300-$400). The tuff country says it only fits 09-14. I thought 04-14 were basically the same design? Other manufacturers UCAs are for 04-14. I thought I'd give them a call Monday and see what they have to say. Do y'all know of any other uniball control arms in that price range? Thanks for the help!
#10
The front suspension changed a bit in 2009. As I said earlier, do you NEED the 2.5" of level or do you like the look of it?
If your tires will still fit, dropping the front down a little would be so much cheaper and better for all of the front end components. Driving around a farm probably works the front end out really good, but in a bad way with that level.
Even if you went with a uniball design, your cv angles will still be pretty severe.
If your tires will still fit, dropping the front down a little would be so much cheaper and better for all of the front end components. Driving around a farm probably works the front end out really good, but in a bad way with that level.
Even if you went with a uniball design, your cv angles will still be pretty severe.
#12
Well, I guess the only options are to spend the money and get a taller steering knuckle, uniball ball joints or lower the front end to stock height and get stock sized tires. Sounds like the flexing the truck does on the farm maxes it out often. The upper control arms should never even come close to the coil. At that point, the ballpoint is just being destroyed.
Last edited by 2008_XL; 03-07-2016 at 10:28 AM.
#13
Well, I guess the only options are to spend the money and get a taller steering knuckle, uniball ball joints or lower the front end to stock height and get stock sized tires. Sounds like the flexing the truck does on the farm maxes it out often. The upper control arms should never even come close to the coil. At that point, the ballpoint is just being destroyed.
#14
If you look at the upper control arm and the geometry .... you'll see that with stock and upper flatter control arm the UBJ just resist sideways forces to hold top of spindle out. As you raise the truck, you are dropping the spindle in relation to the upper control arm, the upper control arm is more downwards angled from frame to UBJ. The steeper that UCA is the greater the force is against that UBJ .... it's like a wedging action of a over center type latch. That's in part why a lift accelerates wear. Then throw in that rarely is a lift not accompanied by a bigger heavier tire wheel combo with more offset adding to the leverage trying to fold that UCA back against the spring & frame.