Thought I would join since I keep coming here from Google when looking up different information.

The truck is a 2004 Super Crew Lariat 4x4 w/ 142k on it. It was a company car for one of our lawyers. I am surprised that they kept it for 10 years. It is in very good shape.

A few of concerns:
- Not sure if spark plugs have been changed. I have seen a lot of the records but it wasn't in there. I emailed the guy who had it before to see if he knew.
- I think the AC should be colder. My grandfathers 99 and 2012 both have ICY cold AC. This one is just so so. Might be the automatic climate control.
- 2 accidents. Earlier this year it had a light bang that required the bumper to be replaced. It wasn't bad. Asked for details on the first.
- The two tires on the passenger's side have rubber pealing from the side wall. However the tires are within 5k of requiring replacement anyways.

 

My condolences.


https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...e-up-time.html

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=maintenance

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=maintenance

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=maintenance

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ht=2005+issues

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...placement.html

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...ml#post4213274

An additional note on the rear diff - if it is a Traction Lok / LS unit, it uses a Friction Modifier for the clutches - as such, FM is hydrophyllic (attracts and retains water), so it's highly recommended that the fluid change interval be 3 years/30,000 miles to prevent the onset of corrosion

The infamous 5.4 3V Plug change sample info:

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...rk_plug_blues/

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...y-writeup.html

There are more methods in the Tech section as well - here, under the Engines subsection:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...-articles.html

Removing broken plug pieces requires a strong shop vac and a small hose adapted to it.

Lisle tool #65600 broken plug extractor should be purchased beforehand. Carquest, Napa, online stores, etc sell it.

New plug boots (e.g Belden from Napa - $4/each), silicon dielectric grease, hi-temp nickel anti-sieze, MC carb cleaner also needed.

Jim Allen ( the guy who wrote the 4wheeler article above) - this guy is also a member here. I, like he does, also run the true 1-piece Champion 7989 plugs. The MC SP 515's are STILL a 2-piece plug and can break the next time, just so you know.

MGD

 

That is bookmark worthy MGD .

I'm quite surprised that you are running the Champion plug. Figured you would be on board with the SP515s and a coating of 1600 degree nickle anti-seize.

 

LMAO !!!

That would be 2400 degree F A/S thar yungin'

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...bricant-detail


MGD

 

Wow. Looks like I have a bunch of reading to do.

The PO said he thinks he had the plugs changed at 75k but he doesn't remember where. I think I am going to call the local Ford stealership that I saw some other receipts for and see if they can find anything else. The tires have been peeling like that since he rubbed a curb a few years ago. The first accident resulted in a replaced rear bumper and tailgate.

Overall the truck looks in good shape and since the company paid for it, I'm sure all the maintenance was done on time. For about $8,300 it looks like a good buy.

 

From the PO:
The truck has been and is great. The only things I can think of that aren’t on the company report are:

• I did have to add coolant twice over the past ~3 years. The shop told me they couldn’t find a leak but added a dye that will make it obvious it if happens again.
• Sometimes when driving around 40-50 MPH with a slight amount of power being added (i.e. slow acceleration or steady speed up a slight incline) the truck will bounce back and forth between 2 gears rapidly. I’d just step on the gas a little heavier and it would stop. Took it to the shop but they couldn’t find anything wrong.
• I cut out where my heel wore a hole in the driver side floormat, and replaced it with a square of carpet. Not a pretty repair, but it’s better than just a hole.
• I added some little battery-operated lights to the center console and the bed.
• I loved the truck and sometimes wish I had it back. It is beautiful.
• My wife gave me a bed cover for the truck. We took it off when we turned the truck back in, but if you’re interested I’ll sell it to you.

 

The anti-seize I have is 1600. Should I not use the product?

 

That's what I have sitting in the garage in a jar. Put it on most of the bolts putting my Audi back together.

 

Personally, I wouldn't. Get the specified stuff ( you can buy the smallest quantity - don't require much), and use the other stuff for generic usage on less critical items.

MGD

 

Excellent.

I love overkill, lol.

Actually, there is no such thing as overkill. There is only 'Open Fire' and 'Reloading'.

That trans behavior is worrisome. I'd just go ahead and do a full trans fluid replacement / pan drop / filter change (as described within those links).

It's possible it's also a low-grade random misfire - you'd need to pull pending code data from the PCM - requires an advanced scan tool. If the plug job never included fresh boot, springs and dielectric grease, it's an incomplete job and may incur issues at some later date, if not immediately.

MGD

 

I didn't notice the trans doing that yesterday but I might see if I can take it home this weekend and go through it. Also give me a chance to drive it for longer and check the bodywork and frame from the two minor accidents.

I will get the service records back from HR and compile a summary of service. I know the trans fluid has been replaced a few time. I might not notice it since this would be the first automatic I've owned since I was 16.

 

Taking it for a PPI at the dealership tomorrow. This is a lot cheaper than the Porsche PPIs I've got before. :-)

I also wonder if the trans issue is really this. It was described to me almost identical to this.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...dder-35-a.html

 

It may well be.

You'll note that, the procedures described (which are almost correct - see details below for correct DE application ), are intrinsic to what I always characterize as a complete spark plug replacement procedure (as I noted earlier).

Always use new boots & springs. If the plug job was done comprehensively, no after-procedure (between plug replacement intervals) would be necessary. IMHO - if yall find this procedure helps, the last plug change was a hack.

Caveat - this apples only if someone did not incorrectly wash the engine and introduce moisture under pressure at some point. If so - all bets are off

The proper way to apply dielectric? That would be this - Courtesy of Jbrew and 88Racing:


Dielectric application:

1. Grease the plugs ceramic before install. This assures proper seat. Without it, the COP boot may buckle.

2. Pull the boot, then give the spring a couple tugs to make sure the spring to coil blade connection is secure.

3. Grease the entire inside of boot to protect against moisture and to focus coil pulse to the spark plug. Without it, pulse jumps, etches and leaves carbon trails inside of boots. Boots become weak and can deform.

4. Install the boot over the spring and onto the coil. With a small screw driver or curved pic, pull the spring from the end of the boot approximately one-half-inch. Slide the screw driver across the spring, keeping it from recoiling back into the boot.

5. Clean grease from spring end with a grease cutting agent. Lacquer thinner or brake cleaner works best.

6. Release spring so that it recoils back into the spark plug boot.

7. With a small brush or finger, grease the top seam of the boot.

8. Install coil.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/19...ml#post4938165


MGD

 

Well got a pre purchase inspection done.

Rear axel seals are leaking
Rear diff leaking
4 wheel low does not engage
A little bit of fluid on the steering rack. Not sure what it is.

 

Ca-ching.


R&R procedures fer the first three items are located in out Tech/How-To section.

For the fourth - need some idea on fluid type to go further. These trucks have a common P/S fluid line leak issue - dang parts were on national back-order fer a spell - confirms just how common.

MGD