I did a search for this, but there's so many different things going on, I couldn't find one that pinpointed what's happening. Here's the scoop:

2004 F150 FX4 Scab, just over 82k miles. I've never had any issues with this truck except for basic stuff: tires, exhaust, etc.

3 days ago, everything was fine. Came home after running some errands after work, parked my truck and went inside.

When I was getting ready to leave for work, I looked out my patio and hit the remote start and I saw the lights blink but didn't hear it start. Tried it again...nothing. Again aaaaaaaand still nothing. Ok, I'll just start it it with the key when I go out and worry about it after work.

OH BUT NO!

I unlock the truck with the remote, climb in, turn the key and nothing. No gauges working, no interior lights would work, no sound of anything priming, nothing. I put it in neutral - still nothing. Back in park - nada. I also notice that if I turn the key to the off position, I now hear that my blower motor is still on and it works at all speeds and there's a faint clicking behind the dash somewhere. It NEVER has done this before.

If I used the remote to try and start it, instead of the 2 blinks on the taillights I would usually get, I would get 7. Which according to the website for the remote, means Tach Lock Out - See Dealer.

First thing in my head is, aftermarket remote start is screwing something up.

Ok, I'm dragging this out.......so basically, the guys that installed my remote start, about 8 years ago, went through the system they put in and said it's not the system, that even if something went wrong with the system, putting the key in should still start the truck. He has a mechanic on site that did some basic tests and he told me that there is no power going from the ignition to the fuse box and from the fuse box to the ECM and for him to continue, there is an initial charge of $200 and it will just keep going up from there depending on how much is involved. He also said it's pulling 5 codes, all related to the factory alarm or anti theft something er other and that the little light on the dash blinks really fast when trying to start it.

The money is a big deal, but obviously, I need my truck to run, so we agree'd that we would hold of until Monday morning to make a decision. I'm wondering if I should just have it towed to a dealer so I know it's done with the right tools, but I know the cost will probably be more. Sigh...

So in a nutshell:

Truck won't crank
Nothing in the cab works: Lights, gauges, radio etc.
Blower motor works with the key out
If I turn the key to start it, I can hear a faint "chirp" coming from somewhere in the engine compartment.
Fast blinking dash light.
Pulling 5 codes relating to factory anti theft/alarm (Truck has no actual alarm, btw)
No power from ignition to the fuse panel and from the panel to the ECM.

I'm probably forgetting something. My mind is a mess trying to wrap itself around all this chaos.

Any ideas guys? Should I just tow to the dealer??

 

Check your battery first, ford builds in protection circuits to prevent ECM damage in low voltage situations. If you get a static voltage of less than 10 volts your truck will do some weird things. Anyway check your voltage and if your below 12 volts charge it up or replace it then see what the truck does.

 

Even my now 19 year old '95 Thunderbird LX will act up some when the battery goes kaput. A few short years ago I walked outside one evening to start her and when I turned the key to start .... no start .... just a click and then nothing. I got out deciding to take another car and planned to deal with the problem later but as I walked back past the trunk .... there was a steady low volume clicking coming from within. It was the module that controls the keyless entry system. Not quite PATS though. I had to unhook the near dead battery to get it to stop.

Took battery with me, got a new one after testing at Advance on the way home that night .... all is well still.

 

Forgot to mention that I did check my battery during the debacle. I put a new Die Hard Platinum in last year right before winter started and I had a steady 12.5 volts.

I even disconnected it for a minute or 2 and reconnected it all. It had no effect on the symptoms.

And Tbear, I am thinking along the same lines as something to do with the key less entry or something just meant to make the truck a little more tricky for a thief to steal, that's making me crazy.

 

to be sure, jump the battery and try again. They can do weird things. When my original battery died, the headlights stayed on but nothing else would work.

 

Got a call from the dealer, I needed a new instrument cluster. They put it in and said it's up and running.

Another note, the mechanic found that one of my tie rod ends was super, super loose. So since it's already there, I'm getting that done too. Picking it up tomorrow. Of course, it's out of warranty lol.

Oy!

This is the first major issue I've EVER had with this truck. Looks like I need to stop buying stuff for the Harley and put some $$ into the truck.

A man's gotta have his toys.

 

Picked it up yesterday, and so far, so good. Steering definitely feels tighter with the new tie rod end.
Of course, they had a few more recommendations, one I actually knew about:

Lower Steering Shaft and fuel filter.

I know there's a write up here somewhere on the lower steering shaft, and I actually had my fuel filter replaced about 15k miles ago. No big deal swapping another one, I just hate that little piece on it.

I'm also going to swap the fuel modulator above the spare tire. Had a buddy's die on him last winter and I'm NOT going to go through putting that thing on when it's -40 degree's outside.

Also getting my remote start redone on Friday.

total cost from dealer - $1450

 

Glad you got your truck straightened out. I don't know how much of the $1450 was the tie rod end, but next time you can fix that yourself. It is a super easy fix. AAMOF, even if you are talking the inner tie rod end, it is a easy fix that requires no special tools. Either way, all you have to do is get the front end aligned after replacing the part. I just replaced both UCAs, both lower ball joints, and both inner & outer tie rod ends on my 04 Lariat and the tie rods was the easiest part to do.

 

The write up on the steering repair as well as replacing the module is in the index of the Articles and How To forum.

 

Thanks guys.

The module is silly easy to replace, so not worried about that one. The steering shaft will take a bit more work, for sure.

As for the tie rod end, stuff like that is just a pita for me. The complex I live in has a fit if we work on our vehicles and I have no garage. I keep the motorcycle at a friends garage too. Kinda blows.

I just figured since it was there already at the dealer, I would just have them do it. I think the cost for that was like $250 or so for the labor, the part and the alignment.