So Ive been fairly happy with my old setup which was a Kenwood 897 HU with Kicker Coax Speakers in Doors and behind the seat. For the sub I had a Polk DXI 12 powered by a Kenwood 9103D in an Audio Enchancers box. This did ok but I wanted something clearer and punchier. So I ended up getting Hertz ESK 570 for the front Doors http://www.mobilesoundworks.com/prod...tz-esk-570.htm. Along with a JL 10W6 for the sub http://www.jlaudio.com/10w6v2-d4-car...-drivers-92120. I ended getting a really good deal on a Digital Pioneer D800 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/PRS-D800 for the Hertz up front. Lastly, I am keeping my 9103D for the JL Sub as it still works fine and has plenty of power. I also ended buying some GT MAT for the Doors and back wall. So here goes nothing, Ive got a few pics so far but Im not done as its hot as hell outside.

Passenger side door with Panel Off....



Driver Side door with Panel Off....



Back Wall Stripped....



Passenger Side Deadened



Driver Side Deadended



Back Wall Deadened



Panel with Hertz Tweeter



Ill be posting more pics as I go but please disregard the quality as its a phone.

 

Got the door panel back on both sides

 

How did the GT Matt work for you??

 

so far so good went with 25sq feet and coated the back of all the panels with that rubberized undercoating....so far so good Ill be finishing it tomorrow

 

Welp I just got the D800 today. This thing is tiny.

 

It should make her sound pretty damn good though!

 

Welp I got it all back in and I am in the process of tuning I will post pics of the finished product when I get it tuned and such. But so far it sounds 50x better than what I had. That little Pioneer Amp is stout!

 

One more reason not to buy into the BS about brand names on the amps. I've used Pioneer/Kenwood, Alpine, Infinity, and MTX in my time. Could tell an audible difference in any of them, never had one quit or overheat/clip. Sure, if you're doing sound competitions and crap like that, go with whatever gets the best performance spec-wise. If you're powering any normal audio upgrade, use a reputable brand name (for quality/warranty purposes) and call it a day.