https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-dtc-list.html

This is the list of codes, before you throw more money down a rathole check them out.

You have a misfire on #5 and it is running lean. Plus the cam position sensor or it's wires have an issue. It sounds like the shop that has done the work are a bunch of idiots. Standard diagnosis would be to read the codes and then test or inspect what is generating those codes. Sorry if this sounds blunt, I don't mean it to be. You need to find a better shop and report the one that did the original work and ask for your money back.

Good luck.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...-dtc-list.html

This is the list of codes, before you throw more money down a rathole check them out.

You have a misfire on #5 and it is running lean. Plus the cam position sensor or it's wires have an issue. It sounds like the shop that has done the work are a bunch of idiots. Standard diagnosis would be to read the codes and then test or inspect what is generating those codes. Sorry if this sounds blunt, I don't mean it to be. You need to find a better shop and report the one that did the original work and ask for your money back.

Good luck.

 

Since my last post I took the truck to the Ford dealer. The tech found that the wiring harness was misrouted when the engine was swapped and installed in a way that caused the IMRC solenoid to not be able to operate properly. The rods from the solenoid had cut into the harness breaking several wires in the process. The repair cost $1600 and it actually improved the performance of the truck when cold but (wait for it) it still runs like crap when hot. The dealer will look at it again but again won't guarantee what they do will actually fix the problem I bring it in for. (Great deal if you can get it I guess)

In the interim I still get the P0022 code and as soon as it gets hot the idle gets rough. While I can clear it up a bit by shifting to neutral and reving it up, it runs bad with reduced power at all RPMs after the problem starts. Leave it cool down and it runs great again.

I swapped the cam position sensors to see if one was flakey but the code stayed in the same bank. So in desperation I decided to disconnect the VCT solenoids to see if it would fix the problem and it did. Runs great and no rough idle. The power is smooth but somewhat reduced during acceleration. The biggest down side is it appears that the gas mileage has taken a 20% hit.

It now throws two codes for the cam solenoids P0010 and P0020. I have read through the forums and found several members that have done this trick for long periods without incident. Some have warned that it might kill the CAT convertor or blown up the engine eventually. I am at my wits end. I can't afford to continually throw good money after bad. As I'm now getting 9 MPH around town, leaving the solenoids disconnected for the long term seems like a unsatisfying solution. I am almost considering installing one of these:
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...epair-Kit.html

I'm temped to trade it in but with the codes a dealer will discount the trade to near nothing.

The 5.4 v3 is the worst motor I've ever had and the fact that dealers can't service them properly is criminal. Keep in mind my first motor in the truck blew at 110K after shredding a cam follower, spring and cam. The VCT may perform well in the lab but it was not ready for the real world. If I take it in to the dealer again the odds are good that they will want to replace the phaser, chain and guide after only 25k on the rebuilt Jasper. Why not? They make their money whether they fix the problem or not.

Anyone left their VCT solenoid disconnected to fix this problem or installed the Livernois kit? Want to join a class action lawsuit?

 

did all of this fix your truck?

 

Runs fine when at speeds above 30 kph but when hot and slowing down to a stop sign I have to put it in neutral and hit the gas so it doesn't stall!!!

 

I pulled my throttle body off and after inspection I noticed there was carbon build up Inside of it creating an air tight lock when the throttle is not engaged...Cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and I haven't had any problems since...... I hope this helps ....

 

Engine light came on after this happened a number of times saying misfire on number 4 so I changed the cool which made no difference at all!!! Now I've changed the plug and also took your advice and cleaned the throttle body . I'll keep at all posted as to the results . Tks
QUOTE=muleychaser1021;5150459]I pulled my throttle body off and after inspection I noticed there was carbon build up Inside of it creating an air tight lock when the throttle is not engaged...Cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and I haven't had any problems since...... I hope this helps ....[/QUOTE]

 

Wow I've changed a coil, a plug and cleaned the throttle body but it run as bad as ever!!!😡😡😡oh well off the look at a new gmc tomorrow!!!

 

Hey guys, just registered on this site because I have the same exact problem. My situation is a little different, but same results.
05 5.4 I bought it with a broken timing chain guide. A friend of mine who did a bunch of these put new chains, tensioners, guides, cam phasers and solenoids. We got it all together and the truck ran on the first try. Test drove it, and after it warmed up it sounded like it was gonna die and sounded like a diesel truck misfiring. We ran a nice scan tool to find out the drivers side cam phaser was not returning to 0 degrees after it advanced timing over 2k rpms. I put the old soleniod in and still the same issue. Sometimes I can rev the motor and slowly let the RPMs back down and it will idle fine. Still working on it, but I'd recommend having someone with a real good scanner look at it. I will post more info if I figure this out.

 

Had way to many problems with this truck, from manifolds, fuel sensors , manifolds and the list goes on and on!!!! Still love fords so I bought a 2015 with warranty. Good luck to you all with that problem. BYW A Ford mechanic told me it was most like the cam phasers or the cam phasers solnoids

 

did your friend drop the oil pan and clean all the broken parts out of the oil pickup tube? If not, they may still be in there and blocking proper oil flow.

If the pickup is clean, run a heavier oil as a test. 5w30 or even 5w40. The phaser lock pin (locks it back into phase at idle) requires a certain amount of oil pressure to engage. Heavier oil helps if this is the issue. only try this if there is no debris in the pickup tube.

 

I dropped the pan, scrubbed it clean, and cleaned the pickup tube.

 

I read this about putting in diesel 15W-40...any thoughts, or is this just a short term fix that will result in something failing?

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-pressure.html

I bough some 10w 40 synthetic blend so I'll know for sure if this is an oiling viscosity problem. I ran some seafoam, and I'm gonna run a can of motor flush because there was sludge build up, then putting this stuff in and see if the problem goes away.

 

10w-40 now only has my truck run like **** if I decelerate and hover around 800 rpms. Like if I'm at idle, and I pull at a stop sign and decelerate from 850, you hear the marbles in a tin can and then full out dieseling and chugging and then it dies. If I neutral rev it, it goes back to idle just fine. Heard there was a TSB for soleniods, so I swapped the original ones back in, no change.

While playing with swapping solenoids, I disconnected each side individually, and tested. Truck ran perfect. Soon as I have both solenoids plugged in, it runs like ****.

Put in Motorcraft 15w-40, still gets the 800 rpm dieseling which I believe is the phaser lock pins not locking to 0. It does run better, but if you pull forward or back up just a bit to say, get out of my driveway, it goes into ***** mode.

 

So let me get this straight, after re attaching/replacing that vacuum line , did it "eliminate" your lean codes as well as fix the idle???

I have a 2003 5.4L (vin 2FTRX18L83CA26740) that has the same problems you described... I start the truck, its fine, it warms up on my way to work and drives fine down the highway... come to a stop sign or two its not bad but when I get to work and let the truck idle it gets rough, really rough. It has stalled on me once while parked, once while driving (at a stop light)... Seems like its getting worse.
I haven't checked the codes on mine lately but as I recall the last time I did have someone check them it did have the lean bank and/or bank's...
I do track every time I put gas in it but I haven't noticed the gas mileage dropping yet but this has only started like last week so it may be a few more fill ups before the average starts showing a drop if there was a mpg issue as some mentioned in this thread. I couldn't believe when you or someone said they got down to 9mpg...mine has always been at 12.5mpg whether its pulling a load or nothing at all. What did confuse me in this thread was the talk about the two solonoids that operate the 4x4 hubs causing this? Are they not on a separate system? This makes no sense to me to have the vacuum that controls the idle also work the 4x4... and someone said if you put it in 4wd and they stick in 4wd you'll know its those solonoids lol...well that scares me to not want to do that with as far as I have to drive to work at highway speeds....
Should I just look for this hose issue like you had or worry about this other stuff as well??