Hi, i'm new to this website, my truck is in need of rotor replacement and i wanted to upgrade to maybe some slotted rotor any recommendations?? Thanks for the help

 

There are a LOT of choices out there. I did a lot of research on the reviews and opted for the Powerslot rotor / pad one click kit. The truck will stop on a dime and spit out $.06 change now... Plenty happy, especially when hauling / towing...

 

Thanks dbhost i will surely look into that also one thing i did forget to mention is my truck is a 2wd so its a bit harder to find some for the front being that it comes with all bearings.

 

www.BrakePerformance.com

Bought slotted and dimpled from them after problems warping stock ones and haven't had a problem since purchasing. Love them

 

Same here, Powerslot slotted disks, hawk LTS pads, awesome braking with little to no dust, installed since 2011. Just took front brakes apart to grease and check things out, hardly any wear on the pads at all. I don't expect to have to change them for years.

Heres a couple photos of my brakes from my tear down after 2yrs/40k miles of use.

 

Just do the Centric 4WD rotor conversion kit. Centric makes StopTech rotors as well, so you can upgrade to those if you think you need "slotted" rotors. I really wouldn't bother with slotted rotors personally.

 

I've had Powerstop rotors for ~9 years and drive in stop and go traffic. They've saved me a LOT of money over the years. They're great.

 

Yeah, if you are 2wd, you will want to do the Centric hub conversion so you can use 4wd rotors separate from the whole hub / bearing assembly...

 

Same here from brake performance (2008 F150 FX4):
1 x Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Front Two Rotor Set (#CB-65100)
1 x Cross-Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Rear Two Rotor Set (#CB-65102)
Very happy and reasonably priced. There is a trick to getting the rear rotors off. If you don't user the trick you will be cursing for many an hour: take the caliper off and remove the outside brake pad and then re-install the caliper with just the inside brake pad. Use a flat pry and 6" c-clamp to keep the piston from pushing the caliper to the away from the rotor; look at it for a few minutes and you'll see the proper placement for the pry bar and clamp. You want the piston to push the rotor off the emergency brake shoes. Just put it in drive and slowly pump the brakes until the rotor comes loose. Couple of other posts describing this.

 

Thank you guys for all the help definitely a good decision joining this forum i went with break performance and just ordered the drilled and slotted rotors now just to wait for the arrival

 

If you had to do that, there was something seriously wrong with your parking brake adjustment. I simply removed the caliper and hung it out of the way, then took a rubber mallet and knocked the "top hat" section of the drum / rotor assembly immediately over the shoes, and by each lug nut, the drum / caliper came off with a considerable amount of jiggling, but there was no need to disassemble the shoes from the outside, Nothing personal, that just doesn't sound like a good idea to me...

 

I've had slotted rotors since 2010 and I'm not doing that again. They look cool but really don't do anything for stopping performance IMO. Occasionally when I brake, it feels like the rotors are warped, but after I let off and brake again its fine. None of the service places I go to ever hound me about buying their brakes, so I'm guessing that the rotors themselves and the therm-O-quiets are still good.

 

I went with Centric premiums and Wagner thermoquiet pads. Don't forget to bleed the lines. Start at passenger side rear, the drivers side rear, passenger side front, driver's side front. The idea is to bleed the longest lines first.