5W20 or 5W30 conventional oil
#32
05-01-2012, 11:37 AM
Problem is, how do you know what else was poured in with that oil? Paint thinner, used thinner from washing paint brushes out, brake fluid, your stale beer, gasoline that you've washed parts with, a little of the old anti freeze that wouldn't quite fit into the anti freeze jug, the possibilities are endless. how does ANYONE know for sure what else was in the old oil jugs. I'm just not ready to put that in my vehicles, no matter WHO reprocessed it! When they have that big tank to pour your old oil in, there is no way to check that oil and know what it has in it. 
#33
05-01-2012, 08:50 PM
Senior Member
Water itself is a 4 billion year old immigrant to the planet Earth. We don't make it, what there is here is all there is unless more arrives with a comet someday. We use it, we change it from a gas to a liquid and back, we mix it, we extract it, we polute it, we sterilize it, we reuse it, over and over. When we dies, the water leaves us and so the cycle goes. We see it evaporate as a vapor to condense back into a liquid and fall as rain. The next cup of coffee you drink may contain a drop of water that Moses once peed out.
Last edited by tbear853; 05-01-2012 at 08:52 PM.
#34
05-02-2012, 02:48 AM
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I have mine changed at the Ford dealer my girlfriend works at (part time). The fleet vehicles on my job get 15w-40 and NAPA filters. We have a few high mileage (over the 100k mile mark, and GOD only knows how many hours sitting at idle) 04-06 F250's with the 5.4's that make a little noise when they're idling, but haven't had any problems out of them otherwise.
On the flipside of that.. The Nissan/Infiniti 3.7 v6 and the 5.6 call for an Ester oil. If you dont use it it won't damage the engine, BUT their version of the cam phasers raise 9 kinds of h@ll if you don't use it. My "daily driver" is a BEAT '97 s-10. I run 20w-50 in it. I run anything else and it'll run 3 qts out the tailpipe between oil changes. I lose about a quart with the heavier weight.
On the flipside of that.. The Nissan/Infiniti 3.7 v6 and the 5.6 call for an Ester oil. If you dont use it it won't damage the engine, BUT their version of the cam phasers raise 9 kinds of h@ll if you don't use it. My "daily driver" is a BEAT '97 s-10. I run 20w-50 in it. I run anything else and it'll run 3 qts out the tailpipe between oil changes. I lose about a quart with the heavier weight.
#35
05-02-2012, 04:17 AM
#36
05-02-2012, 04:25 AM
#37
05-03-2012, 11:38 AM
#38
05-04-2012, 01:19 AM
Senior Member
When it came out of the ground it may look nasty but I don't think it has 47 different kind of brake fluid, thinner, paint and who knows what else. For anyone who WANTS to use and trust their pride and joy to that, Go for it! I don't. I have a difficult time believing the refineing process has the ability to distinguish between all of those things an automatically weed out ANYTHING that wasn't there in the original refined oil.
That's easy to clean out of the oil.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdFab1h_C0M
Last edited by tbear853; 05-04-2012 at 01:28 AM.
#39
05-04-2012, 08:01 AM
#40
05-04-2012, 10:41 PM
In regards to the viscosity, the Kinematic viscosity of most Xw-20 and Xw-30 oils are almost identical. Remember that the SAE viscosity rating you see on a bottle is a range, not an absolute spec. Most of the Xw-30 oils will be Energy Conserving oils which means they are on the thin end of the Kinematic scale and the SAE range. The Xw-20 oil are generally at the thick end of the scale and range. So there's very little actual viscosity differential between them.
Someone mentioned Pennzoil and Motorcraft and the lack of MolyTDC in the formulation. Remember that moly is a boundary lube additive and doesn't come into play as a friction modifier until the oil film has basically failed to keep the parts separate. Yeah, it has other advantages like assisting the ZDDP and other synergistic relationships but it's hardly a fact to base an oils value on. I'd much prefer to see a formualtion with more boron, like that of the Motorcraft over the Pennzoil. But again, still not a fact to solely base the value of a motor oil on. It's the entire package that we buy when we pick a brand of oil. Some have great formulations, some are okay, some are almost non-existent.
Someone also mentioned that the lines between a synthetic base and a conventional are getting more blurred everyday, so very true. There are synthetics today that would be not be classified as such just 5 years ago. Any base oil that is hydrocracked is just about game to be called a synthetic now, and that includes the Gp II+ and Gp II oils. Buyer beware.
Recycled oil is not a bad thing and actually has some interesting properties. Because it has already been used, it's pretty much sheared as much as its going to shear. Obviously that makes for a very stable base oil. Depending on the recycler, it's going to come out a Gp III and considering the first treatment is an acid wash, it's going to be extremely pure. Years ago recycled oil got a bad rap because it was cheap and the recyclers were not doing a great job at formulating the oils. The stigma is still with us, kinda like the 3000 mile oil change. You might also want to know that a lot of the motor oils today are using some of the base oils that are recycled.
A good oil is not necessarily one of a synthetic base. No base oil has more functioning lubricity than a conventional base. Any additive package that yields an advantage can be made in a synthetic base or a conventional base and yield the same results. The best oils out there are a well balanced formulation of additives and base oils. The blends cover this as good as any today. Pick one that you like and stick with it. Most of you will trade the rig in LONG before the engine suffers any kind of failure. Remember the Million Mile Econoline van? 1,300,000 miles on conventional Valvoline oil- not bad.
Fun fact: Did you know that you've probably never bought a quart of oil? It's not bottled by liquid volume, it's actually bottled by weight, hence the specific gravity of it. Liquids can change volume due to temperature, but it remains the same weight regardless.
Someone mentioned Pennzoil and Motorcraft and the lack of MolyTDC in the formulation. Remember that moly is a boundary lube additive and doesn't come into play as a friction modifier until the oil film has basically failed to keep the parts separate. Yeah, it has other advantages like assisting the ZDDP and other synergistic relationships but it's hardly a fact to base an oils value on. I'd much prefer to see a formualtion with more boron, like that of the Motorcraft over the Pennzoil. But again, still not a fact to solely base the value of a motor oil on. It's the entire package that we buy when we pick a brand of oil. Some have great formulations, some are okay, some are almost non-existent.
Someone also mentioned that the lines between a synthetic base and a conventional are getting more blurred everyday, so very true. There are synthetics today that would be not be classified as such just 5 years ago. Any base oil that is hydrocracked is just about game to be called a synthetic now, and that includes the Gp II+ and Gp II oils. Buyer beware.
Recycled oil is not a bad thing and actually has some interesting properties. Because it has already been used, it's pretty much sheared as much as its going to shear. Obviously that makes for a very stable base oil. Depending on the recycler, it's going to come out a Gp III and considering the first treatment is an acid wash, it's going to be extremely pure. Years ago recycled oil got a bad rap because it was cheap and the recyclers were not doing a great job at formulating the oils. The stigma is still with us, kinda like the 3000 mile oil change. You might also want to know that a lot of the motor oils today are using some of the base oils that are recycled.
A good oil is not necessarily one of a synthetic base. No base oil has more functioning lubricity than a conventional base. Any additive package that yields an advantage can be made in a synthetic base or a conventional base and yield the same results. The best oils out there are a well balanced formulation of additives and base oils. The blends cover this as good as any today. Pick one that you like and stick with it. Most of you will trade the rig in LONG before the engine suffers any kind of failure. Remember the Million Mile Econoline van? 1,300,000 miles on conventional Valvoline oil- not bad.
Fun fact: Did you know that you've probably never bought a quart of oil? It's not bottled by liquid volume, it's actually bottled by weight, hence the specific gravity of it. Liquids can change volume due to temperature, but it remains the same weight regardless.
#41
05-05-2012, 04:40 AM
#43
05-26-2013, 06:32 PM
As I told 2 of my brothers who kept coming up with information from 20+ years ago in dealing with their new vehicles, (they do their own work) if you don't "go to school" on a continual basis you're going to be spending a lot of money having the dealer fix the things you messed up. (I had good reason to say it in each case). Things change constantly and as MGD said, there is very valid reason for using ONLY what Ford recommended, and it's NOT CAFE guidelines. As tolerances get tighter and more precise and more and more vehicles are using VVT as standard fare, you see more and more going even to 0-20 oil, and it's NOT for CAFE reasons. My wife's 2011 car uses 0-20 and when I change at 7500-8000mi. it's not down even a drop. Yes, it does have VVT.
#44
05-26-2013, 07:26 PM
Senior Member
Edit -
Why? Because Ford was trying to meet the CAFE Federal Guidelines to get every MPG out of their engines.But,I have very many Ford tech friends that advise me to use 5W30,only if I want to.And they also reminded me that Ford spent billions of $s researching 5W20 in their engines,but,the same bearing specs for an 07 engine are the same as an 97,98,and so on,and so on,that uses 5W30.So,you do the math. 
Last edited by kingfish51; 05-26-2013 at 08:12 PM.
