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Strange dragging noise from drivers side front

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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #16  
MossyOak3006's Avatar
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From: Auburn, AL
very strange
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 06:21 PM
  #17  
2008_XL's Avatar
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I had an abs sensor replaced in the same wheel a year ago. The guy said that's usually a sign the bearing is going. He said my bearing was so far gone and my wheel would have fallen off soon.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2008_XL
I had an abs sensor replaced in the same wheel a year ago. The guy said that's usually a sign the bearing is going. He said my bearing was so far gone and my wheel would have fallen off soon.
Yikes!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:31 PM
  #19  
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From: Burlington, VT
Partially my own fault. My friend who own a shop gives me inspection stickers for free and I've never really gotten it inspected. I am now going to change my ways. $20 dollar inspection is worth it.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2008_XL
Mossyoak, you were right. It was the bearing. $757 for a new hub, rotor and bearing. Strange it failed at 45k, but it did.
Sounded horrible when I drove it here. Popping and grinding the whole way.
Whoa! you have an extended warranty?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #21  
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No extended. I never do that. Still under powertrain and that's it.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 08:06 PM
  #22  
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From: Burlington, VT
Also forgot to mention, it was only $5xx.00 not in the $700's. It ended up being less than the quote.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 12:49 AM
  #23  
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From: Las Colinas, TX
Wowsers! Sucks being away from home and your tools. I actually installed new wheel bearings today as well. $61 each from AutoZone; $8 for Mobil1 grease. Borrowed a tool set to press the old ones out and back in. Took about 30 minutes to press them out and another 20 to press the new ones in. X2. I was checking some of the previous posts and decided to just do the wheel bearings (minus the rotor, hub etc). My truck only has 75K miles, and I thought it was weird they failed too. Changed out the front pads while I was at it.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 01:27 AM
  #24  
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From: Burlington, VT
Sounds like I could have saved a lot! Haha. Another thing I thought I'd mention. I was talking to the service guy as said I was going to do the other tree rotors and all the pads soon. He said oem, or even the cheapest pads money can buy are the best and not to use ceramic. He said ceramic are so hard that they'll wear and warp the rotors much faster. He cheap pads don't last as long but you stop faster with them due to being soft and they never wear your rotors. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 01:56 AM
  #25  
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Yeah that's a good point. Not sure that it's ever been completely proven, but there are arguments either way on ceramic pads. I went with Wagner Thermo-Quiet semi-metallic pads. I've had a lot of success with them.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:06 PM
  #26  
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got my bearing from rock auto delivered for 45.00.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #27  
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From: Burlington, VT
Originally Posted by wilburzz
got my bearing from rock auto delivered for 45.00.
I would have as well had I not been traveling while this happened. I also needed a new hub and rotor.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #28  
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Wowsers... Ford charged me 435 for a new rotors/hub assembly. I thought that was bad
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:29 AM
  #29  
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Sorry I forgot you said you were traveling.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 10:38 AM
  #30  
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From: Byhalia, MS
Maybe you baby that truck too much, XL

Man, that truck is beautiful. Course I'm partial to the old XL trim, seeing as how my first truck was a '95 XL
 
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