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Precautions about switching to synthetic

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Precautions about switching to synthetic

 
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:52 PM
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Precautions about switching to synthetic

Did some searching and some reading about switching to synthetic motor oil and got some good information. One thing I have not come across yet is if I have been running Motorcraft and Catrol GTX, if I decide to switch to full synthetic do I need to do anything on the first oil change? Can I change it like normal (drain, replace filter, add new oil)? Any reason to change oil, put a few miles on the truck and change again? Mileage on the truck is about 48K, the main reason for the switch is to extend the period between oil changes, and maybe any added benefit of a "better" lubricant. I am not dead set on changing to synthetic, any advise one could give would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

Last edited by mdhawkin; 06-22-2011 at 12:01 AM.
  #2  
Old 06-21-2011, 11:58 PM
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Been running Mobil1 or Pennsoil platinum ever since truck was 2 years old. Was changing oil every 7500 but gonna try running to 10K this time.
Never did anything special as Motorcraft oil is partly synthetic anyhow.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:18 AM
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Just stay with the 5W-20 and you will be fine...
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mdhawkin View Post
Did some searching and some reading about switching to synthetic motor oil and got some good information. One thing I have not come across yet is if I have been running Motorcraft and Catrol GTX, if I decide to switch to full synthetic do I need to do anything on the first oil change? Can I change it like normal (drain, replace filter, add new oil)? Any reason to change oil, put a few miles on the truck and change again? Mileage on the truck is about 48K, the main reason for the switch is to extend the period between oil changes, and maybe any added benefit of a "better" lubricant. I am not dead set on changing to synthetic, any advise one could give would be appreciated. Thanks.
Change it and drive on. It's already used to drinking synthetic (at least partial) with the MC, FULL synthetic ought to taste good to it. I change my SIL's in her '07 since my brother passed away and since she puts quite a few miles on I switched her from MC to Pennzoil Platinum last change and to told her to run it 10K instead of the 5K she's been running. Our new car came with full synthetic and free oil changes for 2 years so for the 1st time in my life I'll let them change it (at 10k mi., what it calls for) It's at 6300 mi. now and right where it was when we bought it new, so I guess it's good for 10k.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:33 AM
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As a clarification I have been running Castrol GTX for the past 4 -5 oil changes and not motorcraft (I know shame shame), but from what I can tell its also a blended oil. So far I have some saying go ahead and switch with no special procedures and some saying stick with blended. Any other inputs?
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:47 AM
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After approx 5k on my 06 I switched to amsoil 0w-20w and ran that for 35k with 10k oil change intervals with NO ISSUES.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:01 PM
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there is no special work required

you can change back and forth from full synthetic to full dino oil and back again if you want. Just keep track of what you are using and change at the appropriate intervals.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:22 PM
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Thanks guys, I will probably go ahead and switch. 88Racing what was your reason for 0w-20 over 5w-20? Any other thoughts on which one to run 5w-20 or something else.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 12:30 PM
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I have been using Castrol for 40 years (because of my experience using this oil in Harleys). I change at 10K intervals, with no problems. Tried Mobil 1 one time to push changes to 15K. Well I had to add oil before 10K. Never had to add any oil with Castrol. Dumped the Mobil 1 in a hurry. Nothing but Castrol for me.....
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:28 PM
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do I need to do anything on the first oil change?
No, the basestocks are pretty much the same hydrocarbons these days unless you are going to use some exotic synthetic like Motul. A few years ago there was an issue with the synthetics removing sludge and varnish at seals that caused leaks. The truth is, the synthetics lacked a seal swell agent and caused the leaks. That's not an issue today.
Can I change it like normal
Yes.
the main reason for the switch is to extend the period between oil changes,
Depends on what your idea is of extended changes. If your wanting changes at 7000 miles, you can do that with Motorcraft oil or Castrol if it's a favorite. If you are looking for 12-15,000 mile changes, the only oil built for that is Amsoil. Just avoid the unremarkable XL line. Amsoil is not API certified regardless of advertising so should you have any oil related failures, you're on your own.
maybe any added benefit of a "better" lubricant.
Better in what regard? Synthetics offer no more lubricity and won't add one mile to the life of your engine. All oils wearing the Ford specs are tested at 302F for many hours that your engine will never see and survive. They are not allowed to form high temp deposits and are not allowed to shift out of their respective viscosity range. So what do you expect a much more costly synthetic to do for the money?

As I've said here before many times, if you are paying a premium price for any product, you should get premium results. Synthetic oils fall very short and a lot won't compare with the much cheaper blends. If you have artic conditions, you might want to consider a synthetic for cold startup but make sure that the oil you are going to pay a premium for actually has better specs in cold weather. A lot of them equal the blends but do not flow any better in frigid conditions. The blends offer the most bang for the buck as they have improved dramatically over the years but the synthetics have remained static at best. If you're looking for advice, stay with the blends and change according to the owners manual recommendations. If you just have the need to spend more money on an oil, look at Kendall with Titanium. You MIGHT see addition 1/2 mile per gallon increase in fuel mileage......maybe.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 01:36 PM
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^^ Thank you!

I currently run 6-6.5k between changes now. Thanks for the detailed explanations, learned some good stuff here. When I posted this, I was looking for knowledge in general and you have provided some excellent details, not afraid to say I am partially ignorant to this subject matter.

Looks like I may just stick with what has been working for me. Thanks all
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 88racing View Post
After approx 5k on my 06 I switched to amsoil 0w-20w and ran that for 35k with 10k oil change intervals with NO ISSUES.
Have done exactly the same thing with my 05. Use Amsoil filter and oil once a year which equals to about 9-10K miles, no issues.
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Labnerd View Post
No, the basestocks are pretty much the same hydrocarbons these days unless you are going to use some exotic synthetic like Motul. A few years ago there was an issue with the synthetics removing sludge and varnish at seals that caused leaks. The truth is, the synthetics lacked a seal swell agent and caused the leaks. That's not an issue today.

Yes.

Depends on what your idea is of extended changes. If your wanting changes at 7000 miles, you can do that with Motorcraft oil or Castrol if it's a favorite. If you are looking for 12-15,000 mile changes, the only oil built for that is Amsoil. Just avoid the unremarkable XL line. Amsoil is not API certified regardless of advertising so should you have any oil related failures, you're on your own.

Better in what regard? Synthetics offer no more lubricity and won't add one mile to the life of your engine. All oils wearing the Ford specs are tested at 302F for many hours that your engine will never see and survive. They are not allowed to form high temp deposits and are not allowed to shift out of their respective viscosity range. So what do you expect a much more costly synthetic to do for the money?

As I've said here before many times, if you are paying a premium price for any product, you should get premium results. Synthetic oils fall very short and a lot won't compare with the much cheaper blends. If you have artic conditions, you might want to consider a synthetic for cold startup but make sure that the oil you are going to pay a premium for actually has better specs in cold weather. A lot of them equal the blends but do not flow any better in frigid conditions. The blends offer the most bang for the buck as they have improved dramatically over the years but the synthetics have remained static at best. If you're looking for advice, stay with the blends and change according to the owners manual recommendations. If you just have the need to spend more money on an oil, look at Kendall with Titanium. You MIGHT see addition 1/2 mile per gallon increase in fuel mileage......maybe.
Labnerd to the rescue....
 
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 88racing View Post
After approx 5k on my 06 I switched to amsoil 0w-20w and ran that for 35k with 10k oil change intervals with NO ISSUES.
for what it's worth 88, the OP has an 05 and you have an 10 anyway, I was using the 0W-20 amsoil in my 07 and started to get a very slight phaser knock on bank 1. Talked to my dealer (which I trust highly) it is recommended to NOT run the 0W-20 weight, but to use the 5W-20 XL Amsoil in the engines with the phasers, also stick with the 5000 mi change. I did this and the phaser noise went away and hasn't come back. BTW, my truck only has 36,000 mi on the clock..so...go figure ??
 
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:35 AM
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^^ Mine is an 08, just FYI - not that it would change much.
 

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