2.5" HBS Install *Pics*
#1
2.5" HBS Install *Pics*
I installed my 2.5" HBS (Hell Bent Steel) Leveling Kit tonight on my 2007 Supercrew. I did this solo. It would be easier with a second person, but is doable with 1. I began doing a write up, but as it got dark, I forgot to take pictures. I used the 2.5" Autospring Write-Up as a guideline. I did change some steps around.
Tools Used (needed):
* 15mm socket and wrench - the socket is used to remove the three upper strut nuts and the wrench will be used to tighten those same nuts when you put the spacer on top of the strut. Also use this for the sway bar link nut removal. This is also used for the new nuts with the leveling kit.
* 21mm deep socket – you will use this to remove the ball joint nut. The instructions say to use it to remove your lug nuts, which you certainly could, but the factory tire iron is easier to use….unless you’re using air tools.
* 30mm socket – this is needed to remove the nut on the lower strut bolt. If buying from Advance Auto Parts, you need the 30mm Deep Well. The standard 30mm is not deep enough. I had to go in the middle of doing mine to exchange for a deep well.
* 1 1/16 wrench – you will need this for the bolt end of the lower strut…bolt.
* 2 Floor Jacks – make sure your floor jack will go up to at least 21”. You have a big truck, you need a big jack. i personally wouldn't use anything less than a 3 ton.
* Jack Stands – you would be best with at least 6 ton stands for height, strength, and stability.
*Torque Wrench - used to torque all nuts and your lugnuts
Tools Needed: I also used an air ratchet and air impact.
Before Pictures:
Remove center cap:
Remove Wheel:
Rather than unbolting the bottom of the sway bar link with the 18mm nut, I suggest unbolting the top of the link. You can put the 15mm wrench on the link and use the 15mm socket to remove the nut. This will prevent the risk of the link socket just free spinning and needing to use channel locks to hold it. I experience this and it is when I switched to removing the top of the link as picture.
Unbolt the 30mm Lower Strut Bolt and Remove (3) 15mm nuts on top of the strut assembly. (no picture sorry)
Loosen the 21mm nut on the Upper Ball Joint. I used a 2lb hammer to break the control arm free and it worked with out a problem. I left the jack under the lower control arm to catch the fall. Now tie off the knuckle and remove strut assembly.
Install leveling kit. Remember old nuts on the factory assembly and new nuts on the leveling kit.
Now install the strut assembly back in. Snug the top 3 nuts for the assembly. Now install the lower strut assembly bolt and tighten. Now tighten the top 3 strut assembly nuts.
Jack the lower control arm up to assist in getting the upper ball joint back in the knuckle. Tighten the 21mm bolt.
Now reinstall your sway bar link bushing and nut and tighten.
Install wheel and center cap.
After pictures:
I am very pleased with how the truck turned out. Gave it a beef stance now! Getting it aligned tomorrow.
Pre Alignment:
Measuresments before:
Driver Front: 36 3/4"
Driver Rear:39 1/4"
Passenger Front: 37 3/8"
Passenger Rear: 38 3/4"
Measuresments after:
Driver Front: 39 3/8"
Driver Rear:39 1/4"
Passenger Front: 39 7/8"
Passenger Rear: 38 3/4"
After a long day of work and class and then this I'm beat. I'll fix any errors in the post tomorrow.
-Curtis-
Tools Used (needed):
* 15mm socket and wrench - the socket is used to remove the three upper strut nuts and the wrench will be used to tighten those same nuts when you put the spacer on top of the strut. Also use this for the sway bar link nut removal. This is also used for the new nuts with the leveling kit.
* 21mm deep socket – you will use this to remove the ball joint nut. The instructions say to use it to remove your lug nuts, which you certainly could, but the factory tire iron is easier to use….unless you’re using air tools.
* 30mm socket – this is needed to remove the nut on the lower strut bolt. If buying from Advance Auto Parts, you need the 30mm Deep Well. The standard 30mm is not deep enough. I had to go in the middle of doing mine to exchange for a deep well.
* 1 1/16 wrench – you will need this for the bolt end of the lower strut…bolt.
* 2 Floor Jacks – make sure your floor jack will go up to at least 21”. You have a big truck, you need a big jack. i personally wouldn't use anything less than a 3 ton.
* Jack Stands – you would be best with at least 6 ton stands for height, strength, and stability.
*Torque Wrench - used to torque all nuts and your lugnuts
Tools Needed: I also used an air ratchet and air impact.
Before Pictures:
Remove center cap:
Remove Wheel:
Rather than unbolting the bottom of the sway bar link with the 18mm nut, I suggest unbolting the top of the link. You can put the 15mm wrench on the link and use the 15mm socket to remove the nut. This will prevent the risk of the link socket just free spinning and needing to use channel locks to hold it. I experience this and it is when I switched to removing the top of the link as picture.
Unbolt the 30mm Lower Strut Bolt and Remove (3) 15mm nuts on top of the strut assembly. (no picture sorry)
Loosen the 21mm nut on the Upper Ball Joint. I used a 2lb hammer to break the control arm free and it worked with out a problem. I left the jack under the lower control arm to catch the fall. Now tie off the knuckle and remove strut assembly.
Install leveling kit. Remember old nuts on the factory assembly and new nuts on the leveling kit.
Now install the strut assembly back in. Snug the top 3 nuts for the assembly. Now install the lower strut assembly bolt and tighten. Now tighten the top 3 strut assembly nuts.
Jack the lower control arm up to assist in getting the upper ball joint back in the knuckle. Tighten the 21mm bolt.
Now reinstall your sway bar link bushing and nut and tighten.
Install wheel and center cap.
After pictures:
I am very pleased with how the truck turned out. Gave it a beef stance now! Getting it aligned tomorrow.
Pre Alignment:
Measuresments before:
Driver Front: 36 3/4"
Driver Rear:39 1/4"
Passenger Front: 37 3/8"
Passenger Rear: 38 3/4"
Measuresments after:
Driver Front: 39 3/8"
Driver Rear:39 1/4"
Passenger Front: 39 7/8"
Passenger Rear: 38 3/4"
After a long day of work and class and then this I'm beat. I'll fix any errors in the post tomorrow.
-Curtis-
#7
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#9
#10
Well if that's the case those kits are not safe. When I had the Autospring 2" leveling kit on my truck (at one point before I went a different direction) it didn't settle period. Must be because it's designed and built beeifer.
#11
Metal Spacers won't settle.
I'd like to see some links to where other people report Hell Bent Steel leveling kits settle.
The kit really improved the look of the truck and I love it so far. Sure makes for a nice DD. Once I run these Scorpions down, it will get some MT's in a 33 or so.
-Curtis-