Another spot to look into is your altenator and idle pulleys. I had a very similar situation going on last summer where the truck would die when in gear and at idle when ever I was reversing a trailer and putting strain on the power steering pump. Replaced all the bad idler pulleys and alt......and problem went away.........Just food for thought.

 

I am having the EXACT same problem with mine. The idle sounds exactly the same. I've done everything you have.

I've been dealing with the issue for over 2 years now. It seems worse when it's really hot outside.

Please keep us posted on what you find out or if anything works.

 

The PCV valve is replaceable. It's not in the valve cover, it's bolted to the intake on the drivers side just behind the throttle body.

There's a sensor in the steering system that increases RPM anytime something puts a load on the steering. This is to help reduce steering effort when maneuvering a heavy load.

 

If it sounds like a diesel when idling, and it stalls at low RPM, check the VCT, as there is a new version. they are $88 at Ford parts dealer. do not get them at autozone, as they will have the same version that went bad.

 

 

Hey, I have the 4.6L in my truck an it would stall idling,Braking and when I dropped it in reverse. I disconnected the battery, cleaned all induction sensors and scrubbed the heck out of the TB, Replaced PCV vavle. Hooked up the batt. An ran a bottle of Seafoam thru it. Ran fine after words. Only reason I felt need to reply was mine threw no codes. I know you tried most if not all of them but it resolved my no code stall issue. -Forrest

 

Seafoam doesn't seem to be liked too much around here. I wouldn't put it in my truck.

I like Techron though.

 

Haha, hey that's cool I grew up around a marina Seafoam an Never seize was 2 things they would just about feed you for lunch, but hey it never done me no wrong. I'm just a shade tree'er tho no certifications so I can't tell ya what's best or what's "bad".. Just what I've used, first time my truck would stall out was due to some jack*** stealing my gas cap but it threw a code then.. Bad world when a mans gas cap gets ran off with

 

Hey, totally understandable. If it helped with your issue, then that's great. If I'd had good results with something I'd keep using it too.

Glad it solved your problem. I just don't trust the stuff personally.

 

Seafoam is great for marine engines and carbureted engines with no cat converters.

 

A couple of years ago I was driving my brother's F250 Diesel, cruising along on the interstate, and the accelerator becomes unresponsive.


Fast forward a couple of years. I was changing the oil in my 2006 F150 5.4L, and I noticed corrosion on the + battery terminal. I cleaned and greased the terminals and put everything back together.


I noticed after that I'd start my truck cold and drive 12.5-miles to work. At slow speeds while parking my truck, it would miss, sputter and sometimes stall. I was driving through town one day, slowed down to make a turn, and the truck stalled.


I called my brother, and asked what fixed his non-responsive accelerator. He said he cleaned his battery terminals, and replaced one cable.


I disconnected my battery cables, and removed the thick layer of cup grease I had put on them. I reconnected the battery cables and greased the terminals after connecting the cables to prevent further corrosion.


I have not had a problem again.


My theory of the low speed sputtering, stalling and non-responsive accelerator is a weak charging system, bad battery or dirty battery terminals.


Your vehicle relies on the alternator to power all systems and to charge your battery. With a weak alternator or dirty battery terminals your alternator can't power critical engine systems at low RPM - you get a miss, random stall and un-responsive throttle at low RPMs.

 

A couple of years ago I was driving my brother's F250 Diesel, cruising along on the interstate, and the accelerator becomes unresponsive.


Fast forward a couple of years. I was changing the oil in my 2006 F150 5.4L, and I noticed corrosion on the + battery terminal. I cleaned and greased the terminals and put everything back together.


I noticed after that I'd start my truck cold and drive 12.5-miles to work. At slow speeds while parking my truck, it would miss, sputter and sometimes stall.


I was driving through town one day, slowed down to make a turn, and the truck stalled. I muscled it to the side of the road, and started it back up, but the accelerator pedal did absolutely nothing. No response from the accelerator pedal. I shut it down again and restarted a couple of times, and finally got a response from the accelerator.

I called my brother, and asked what fixed his non-responsive accelerator. He said he cleaned his battery terminals, and replaced one cable.

I disconnected my battery cables, and removed the thick layer of cup grease I had put on them. I reconnected the battery cables and greased the terminals after connecting the cables to prevent further corrosion.

I have not had a problem again.

My theory of the low speed sputtering, stalling and non-responsive accelerator is a weak charging system, bad battery or dirty battery terminals.


Your vehicle relies on the alternator to power all systems and to charge your battery. With a weak alternator or dirty battery terminals your alternator can't power critical engine systems at low RPM - you get a miss, random stall and un-responsive throttle at low RPMs.

 

I'm new to this forum stuff but I've been reading some of them and a lot people are having the same problems I'm having. I have a 2015 f-150 5.0 FX - 4 Flex fuel. I have done and changed the same things others have done with no luck. Has anyone figured it out yet. Please let me know. If no luck, how can we make this a total truck recall or claim it a (Lemon Law)

 

There are to many different replies in this thread making it useless.
Every different reply post is not always the same trouble cause.
Not one reply has made an effort to look at operating live data with a Scanner to see if fuel tables are out of limits that will cause rough idle and stalling.
You all need a lot of luck trying to fix things without looking for the cause 'first'.
Good luck.

 

Its your cam phasers. I had he same exact issue. If you put thicker oil in your truck it will temporarily fix the problem until you can change our the phasers. Ill be doing phasers and oil pump very soon so the problem is completely fixed. Thats the only real way to avoid it reoccurring. My opinion as a non mechanic ... Our oil pumps dont supply enough oil pressure at idle. With thin oil, hot engine, hot weather there isnt enough oil in there to keep the phasers/timing lubricated. With thicker oil it will stay lubed longer with lower oil pressure. You need new phasers and change that oil pump.