Glad to see your baby back in one piece, db. Those new flares look 10x better IMO, never liked those other ones. And they'll look even better if you PTM them like I think you said you might before. I like those much better than the super bulky Bushwacker type ones.

 

I was aiming for unique with the other flares. They worked well. And they sure beat the bulky look in my eyes. These however have a more tailored look.

 

Looks good DB. Like the EGR flares much better. I never liked those flexy flares personally but that doesn't matter. Can't wait for you to paint match them.

That Tahoe may ride smooth, but it won't handle off road nearly as good as your rigg will!

 

Was having some chatter out of my Clutches so I decided to change the oil and modifier. Then washed it for good measures!

 

I went and re-trimmed what the body shop straightened for me, the rolled back inner fender lip, and trimmed the new plastic trim piece. I have room to flex now...



From the rear view the EGR flares give me full tire coverage...



But from the front, it is shy by about 1/4" or so on the tread (not sidewall, but tread block), which was just about the same as the flexy flares were...



All in all, I am happy with the overall look of them. I at first thought to keep them black, but I parked next to a Lariat with his factory PTM flares in AZ Beige today, and am liking that look too... And i have AZ Beige rattle paint in the shop... Might just have to do this, and touch up a couple of spots on the back of the cab where the tool box rubbed... I seriously need to get up off my tailbone and refinish / PTM the tool box, get the top braced for the 102 (I was planning on cutting to fit, and then riveting in a 2" x 1", 1/8" thick U channel steel directly to the underside of the top running front to back. A few rivets and drill the hole again for the antenna mount, the stress load will be spread over a MUCH larger area, and should be FAR less likely to cause any bending of that top again!

Next on the cosmetic / functional upgrade list is the nerf bars. The Hunter units are tired, have bubbling rust on the bottom and just need to be retired... I am giving some SERIOUS thought into a set of the Go Rhino ovals that go wheel well to wheel well and give me a step up for the bed... I have helping out with a family business that involves hauling things like EZ Up canopies, tables, coolers, folding chairs etc... Easier access to the front of the bed would really help!

Just FWIW, if anyone is interested, I put up a write up on how I laid out / did the tender trimming on my blog. You can check it out at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com/2...t-back-to.html

 

Drove it for a few minutes. Bedded in my recently replaced Hawk LTS pads. All is good and quiet now.

Shot this video of my 4wd issue. I replaced my Moog wheel bearing back in December and since then I have had this sound. I removed it and re-installed it and its still there, any ideas folks? Hoping it isn't an actuator.

 

^ Aaaaand 2WD wins again

I washed my truck for the first time in forever, and tried out a clay bar for the first time too. I only had time for the hood, front fenders, and tailgate, but they feel much smoother. My paint still has a TON of what I assume is brake dust imbedded in the paint. The whole truck is coated in rusted, tiny specks of metal. I see a lot of white cars at work with this too, but they're pretty well stuck in there. Can't see em from 10 feet away though, so oh well.

Also used Showroom new on some of the plastic bits. Got dark before I could finish. That's what happens when you wake up at 4:30 p.m. though

Edit: obligatory picture

 

dumb thought... does it do this in low traction situations?

 

Took the truck and road tested it through hard huge dip turn and no rub... All is good...

 

I've also seen the little rust specs you speak of be caused from a car wash with rusted water lines/nozzles. I've always been able to get it off.

 

No, it just does it whenever accelerating and gets louder, and clunks harder, the faster it goes.

 

Nice job on the wheels DB... truck looks good!

 

I've been thinking, now that I have the rub gone, I figure I will go ahead, jack the truck up onto some jack stands up front, pull the wheels, and take the Dremel (Okay B&D Rotary tool but you get the idea), and make a clean cut where the inner lip is folded back, then prime / paint / undercoat that to clean it up, and avoid rust problems down the road...

Still very much on the fence about PTM or stay black with the flares. I was going through some old posts last night, and saw an Arizona Beige SuperCrew with flares, the lower band and flares were done with either black plastidip, or bed liner material, don't recall, but from a distance I was really liking the look...

 

Wish mine were that easy. Mine are legitimately stuck in my paint and won't come off even with clay. But you have to get close and the truck is almost 9 years old, so it's alright. I'll make sure to clay it the next couple times I do a wash to see if repeated use helps get more out each time.

 

Yeah, I would think that you could eventually get it off because it's basically sticking to the clear coat. That's why I don't particularly like taking a vehicle through an automatic wash. Like you mentioned, you have to get right up on the truck to see it, but it's still annoying as hell.