so just put a new exhaust now. basically just changed the muffler. now it seems like I am having a rough idle. think its the exhaust? or should I adjust idle with the SCT?

 

Doing a muffler swap won't affect the motor at all. And the SCT shouldn't have anything to do with that either and playing with it would only make it worse IMO. If it's actually rough, something else is wrong.

 

x2, a muffler job won't affect how it runs. Are your RPMs fluctuating more than before? These motors idle low, I upped mine 60rpm and it averages 650 - 700rpm idle. Peace at mind and it sounds better too.

 

I got Ford Racing Hot Rod Cams installed
455RWHP // 548RWTQ (I gained 35HP+ and 28TQ+)

 

i agree. I think mine is idling at about 500. if give it gas to raise to about 600 it seems to be back to normal. It also seems like the problem comes and goes. don't know if its just me.

if I was to increase I don't know how to really do it with the sct noob

also I heard that there is this cam phaser issue our trucks have? or the VCT solenoids? seems like these are things I am reading that people are having issues with. not sure what to look for if these are the problems.

 

Does your truck sound like a diesel? If not, I doubt the phasers are bad enough to do that. Did this all really start as soon as the exhaust was done?

Do some reading or start your own thread for better help.

 

Drove it for the first time in a few weeks today. Guess it sat too long again, had to jump start it with the Cavalier . Also rolled 122k today. Hope it isn't touching 123k until December!

 

I didn't do it but I had the oil change done, rear brake pads and rotors (didn't even get one turn out of the stock rotors), the dreaded spark plug change (none broken, the change is a little early and several tanks of techron) and had a leak in my power steering fixed. For whatever reason after the rear brakes were changed my parking brake decided not to completely release and fused to the inside of the roter when I stopped for dinner on the way back home. The place I had change them to begin with fixed them at no cost to me except my gas and time. Needles to say my parking brake was re-adjusted and new brake shoes to boot. Cost me just over a thousand and the entire weekend but I needed to make sure she's ready for the up coming drive from CA to NC.

Then today I took about 10 min to fix my drivers window. It started not wanting to go up after I rolled it down. I did some searching and found a video on youtube on how to clean the contacts. Worked like a charm. If anybody needs it I can find it again and post a link.

 

Been driving it since I got it back from the body shop last week. It needs to go back. The work wasn't done right, the lower fender edge isn't straight, and the plastic trim piece will not sit flush allowing for water to be held between the plastic and the steel (BAD!), the door to window trim was not re-attached correctly and it is trying to fall off, and the paint is close to matching, but under dusk / dawn lighting, the "feathered in" area sticks out like a sore thumb.

 

I wish shops wouldn't blend panels. Just painted the whole single panel properly and it'll look alright. Shop that did my dad's Mustang's fender and bumper did a great job.

 

On Saturday went down to the local speedway to work the ticket booth. Truck had horrible shake to it when I tried to brake. During the slow hours I jacked it up to check if the caliper froze. It didn't freeze but the lower bracket bolt was gone! So when I would hit the brakes the caliper would grip the rotor and then start to try to rotate with it. Had the girlfriend drive around town for 2 hours to find the bolt, amazing how some auto stores say they have it all but don't have a single 18 mm bolt. Put the new one in and everything back together and runs like normal. Amazing how one bolt is the difference between driving normally and destroying your wheel and entire front end in a matter of seconds.

 

Bummer, Sounds shotty to me. Call the BBB and see if your not the only one having issues.

 

Pretty much my truck projects anymore are going to be repair, and preparation for sell/trade. I received my paint supplies from Automotive Touch Up this past week, received my FX4 style replacement grill from Rock Auto ( $50 some shipped, good quality grill too! ). I was a bit ticked off because the grill surround was attached. It can be a challenge to get it off but I did it in about 5 minutes to my surprise with the 3 tools pictured here. I should have video recorded it.


I am sanding it smooth to paint it 2007/2008 FX4 Lux style, what a job I got myself into. I sanded it smooth with 100 grit tonight, took an hour and a few minutes. Plans for some 400, 800, and 1000 grit to follow up and then priming/painting. I ordered some 2k clear coat from Eastwood. $28 for the can shipped. My research as lead me to expect a body shop clear coat finish from an aerosol can. We shall see. Will only have 30 minutes to use it so I am going to try painting my cars headlamps along with this project and clear coat them to use it up and get my moneys worth. At least I have some projects to keep busy with, just need more time!

 

Just a FYI bro, Don't sand beyond 400 before primer, The slight scratches give the primer more bite. wet sand primer to 600, then paint. Wet sand the paint to 1500 then 3 stage polish the paint. It will look phenomenal when done. Just trying to help

 

Never said I was a paint expert so I am thankful for your advice! Thanks again!