Anyone with an answer on this?

 

For me as a buyer, its usually an indication to me that they will be willing to work with you on what they are asking.

For example if you wanted 20k for your truck OBO. Someone would feel comfortable offering 18k and you can go back with 19k and everyone is happy.

For me its tell me that they are welcoming conversation and people working with them and are willing to negotiate a bit. Or best offer doesn't mean you are just flat out going to sell it to whoever's offer is best, it just means to me you are open to REASONABLE offers and willing to work with them.

I put OBO on EVERYTHING i sell online. You may have to weed through more lowball idiots, but you are guaranteed to generate more interest with OBO than firm or nothing at all.

 

Interesting. I never quite grasped the concept of it. Thanks. Now I need to update everything again adding the "OBO." Of course, now I've already scared off the original potentially interested buyers.

 

Or now we they see the OBO after seeing the FIRM they think they can low ball the hell out of you. Leave the OBO off and take off the FIRM, also

 

That's where I currently stand right now.

 

If you really expect to get $16,500 for it, delist it for a little bit then list it for $17,850. When someone offers $15,000, then you have room to negotiate and make the buyer feel like he has gotten a deal on you. Most people simply won't pay asking price for things like used trucks, cars, boats, etc.

 

OBO says you are open to negotiate. You will get alot of calls as people feel you out on price movement. Nobody but you knows your low limit, so there is nothing wrong with adding it. If you don't like the bid, you don't accept it.

FIRM says if someone doesn't have the money, don't waste your time and hit the road.

Just the price leaves people guessing.

OBO will actually give you the best idea of what people are willing to pay for the truck. After several offers, if they are all below asking, it means you are priced too high for your local market. If they are all below your low limit, you might as well keep it, as general opinion says your truck isn't worth it.

It reminds me of those remodeling shows, where after your done, someone says, "your house is now worth $xxx,xxx. Unless somebody cuts you a check right there, that number is a fantasy...

 

I just bought a fully loaded 04fx4 for 12000. I think your price is a bit high. I would have taken the 15000 and ran with it. Also I don't even bother with a car if the buyer says the price is firm.

 

I got my recent 04 F150 Supercab STX 2WD with 77K and a few dings for $7500. I think KBB is way out on most vehicles these days. Maybe partially because of Cash for clunkers. I see a lot of outrageous listings on craigslist,ebay, and such but VERY VERY FEW actual sales. I think a lot of it too is it's very difficult to finance a vehicle these days bought somewhere besides a car dealer. Banks are more cautious and won't just throw money at you anymore. So most private party sales are cash sales which are usually pretty good deals.

 

How much would something like this cost? Who would I get to do it? And would it work? I am far from an automotive mechanical genius. Though, I did manage the K&N filter by myself.

 

Troyer's shop is right along I-64 in Covington VA about 20 miles before you cross into WV. Of course there is JDM in north jersey. I don't know who you are closer to.

Basically what you need is a stage 1 performance pack and just specify you want an economy tune.

 

This is what we are suggesting

http://www.troyerperformance.com/cgi...o=Stage104354C

It may seem like a size-able amount of $, but for what you are getting and if you keep your truck, it would pay for itself in a couple of years. The trucks perform much better with the tunes and would sound nice the the exhaust and CAI. If you go this route, I would suggest an 87 economy, 87 performance, and 91 performance tunes

 

The price listed on their site is for the average person off the street. Troyer offers a discount for F 150 online members.

 

That's good to know... after college in 4 years I will prolly bring my truck to him and get dynomax long tubes, maggie hi-flows and a true dual 2.25 exhuast set-up maybe 18" maggies or bullets, UD pulleys, e fans

 

Definately change the firm to OBO. I too walk away from "firm" ads.

50 miles a day is nothing. Sit down and do the math if you don't want to sell it. I'm not sure what your are looking at to replace your truck with but consider this:

250 miles/week @ 18 mpg is 14 gallons of gas. You should be able to get 18 out of your truck easily, I get 20 out of my 2wd.
Even if gas goes back to $4 you will pay $56/week in fuel.

If you sell your truck and buy something that gets 30 mpg that same commute will cost you about $34/week. Around $20 less/week. IMO $1,000/year is not that much savings considering you are losing more than that selling your truck. Remember, that's at $4/ gallon.

In 4 years you will spend an extra $4,000 in fuel, still much less than buying another vehicle. Plus you get to drive your truck which you obviously WANT to keep.