So I was messing around with my truck stereo system today and next thing I know I have this problem.

Basically everything that comes after Relay2 is out. Dome light, instrument cluster, Power windows and Radio. Circuit Breaker 401 wasn't the problem, but it seems to be near there. I checked all the individual fuses that relate to any of these problems.

With my voltmeter, I get 12V coming into Relay2. The Relay checks out good when I test it with an ohmmeter and it clicks when I hardwire it to 12V's. I even switched a couple relays around to make sure it was not the problem.

When I test the plugs for Circuit Breaker 401 I get 0 volts on one side and no volt reading on the other side.

I feel like there is no power coming out from relay2 to where it needs to go (CB401 and the instrument cluster). None of the insrtument cluster gauges work (spedo, rpm, digital odometer and "compass, mpg, distance" gauge.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I will probably be up all night working till its right. Thanks

 

I'll assume you have a cilton manual? Take a flash light and see if you can tell of the LCD's are working, maybe it's just the back lighting. I'll take a look at my alldatadiy.com account and see if I can locate where your talking. It'll be sometime tomorrow before i reply, dog tired right now.

 

I am using a Haynes manual.

 

I am using a Haynes manual.

 

Update: I figured out that terminal 86 of the relay is always getting 12v's. The relay clicks over fine when I hard wire it to the battery, but does nothing when in the fuse block, even though my voltmeter reads 12v's

Shouldn't terminal 86 only give me 12v's when I turn the key to ACC, which would click the relay over. If its already at 12v's that seems to defeat the purpose of the relay. Its at 12v before and after turning the key to ACC. The relay basically does nothing when plugged in or when the key is turned.

I took a piece of wire, and hardwired terminal 30 to 87 without the relay and it worked. It gave me my radio and powerwindows back for a minute. Long enough to roll the windows back up at least. Then I took the wire out. This is what confused me. If I the wire worked, then it seems like the relays should work. But they don't and they are good. The relays meet the ohms tests and click fine when wired to a battery.

Does the relay require a minimum amount of amps to work?

 

i had a similar thing happen to me in my 05. i couldnt figure it out so i took it into the dealership and they had to replace some type of brain that controlled the cluster.

 

$ How much did that set you back? $

 

i was under warranty. and they took care of it for me. i might be able to find the work order for it if its where i think it is. do you know what you did to cause it? when mine went south all that was really done was i left the battery disconnected for about 2 days. never shorted anything.

 

well I was messing around with my system. I didn't disconnect the battery (mistake #1). And the next thing I know is this problem. Yep, probably my own dumb fault.

I was in the process of rewiring my system. It was on line-level-inputs and I am switching it to RCA inputs. At some point I must have shorted some speaker wires together. Maybe it caused a problem in the fuse panel/block or brain somewhere. I feel like I have isolated the problem pretty well, I just know if I go into the stealership they are going to want to charge a ton of labor for the troubleshooting and won't listen to anything I say.

But I returned my truck back to stock and took off the AF1 intake today. I'll swing by the dealership monday and see what they say. There is a pretty good shop here in town, I am going to check them out also, they are honest and only charge for labor they actually do and such.

 

i looked for the paper work but i dont think i have it anymore. sorry im not much more help. hope everything works out and you dont have to spend too much to fix it.