colored led cluster test pics
#31
11-18-2008, 01:19 AM
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My gauge face came with a little tool to do it, this isn't my pic but it shows the tool:
Thinking of how deep the connecting piece went and how hard it was to pull with that little tool, I don't think I'd be comfortable using just a pair of pliers or something like that. Maybe someone else can chime in...
Thinking of how deep the connecting piece went and how hard it was to pull with that little tool, I don't think I'd be comfortable using just a pair of pliers or something like that. Maybe someone else can chime in...
#32
11-18-2008, 08:29 AM
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#34
11-21-2008, 10:56 PM
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#35
11-24-2008, 08:33 PM
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Fireman137:
Did you get these
or these
Did you get these
or these
Check out V-Leds here or SuperBrightLeds here (scroll down to where it says #74). I used 6 of the more expensive SMT led bulbs for the always-on backlighting bulbs (the bulbs had a black base on my cluster), and five of the cheaper regular led bulbs for the five others. V-leds have always had the best price when I've compared, though the are currently out of stock of blue SMT #74 bulbs.
As far as the how, check out res1eott's instructions for removing your cluster: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=297728. Once you have it in hand, there is a plastic shielding held on the back with torx screws. Don't remove them all at once, they hold the cluster guts together! I removed one or two at a time, replacing bulbs as I went. The bulbs are in twist bases, just be careful, they felt cheap to me. If your led bulb doesn't work right away, pull it out, spin it 180 degrees in the base, and put it back in. Led's have a polarity, where normal bulbs do not.
As far as the how, check out res1eott's instructions for removing your cluster: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=297728. Once you have it in hand, there is a plastic shielding held on the back with torx screws. Don't remove them all at once, they hold the cluster guts together! I removed one or two at a time, replacing bulbs as I went. The bulbs are in twist bases, just be careful, they felt cheap to me. If your led bulb doesn't work right away, pull it out, spin it 180 degrees in the base, and put it back in. Led's have a polarity, where normal bulbs do not.
#36
11-24-2008, 08:36 PM
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I like it!
#37
11-27-2008, 10:25 AM
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i got the first ones you showed from v-leds. they look NICE but they dont spread the light as well as the bulbs that came out. wish they did. oh well, they look 100 percent better than the green did so i like them. i'll post pix tonite.:santa:
#38
11-30-2008, 02:19 AM
#39
12-01-2008, 12:28 AM
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#40
12-28-2008, 11:27 AM
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I did mine Friday night. Came out great, just not sure if I like the fact that the #74 blue leds don't spread the light around quite as much. I would certainly go with the wide angle ones if I did it again. I used a plastic fork to get the needles off and that worked great.
Also, I got tired of scrubbing with q-tips and acetone and tried something new. I found out that these faces are rather tough. I used my dremel on it's lowest setting with a 1 1/2" BRASS wire brush. It worked great! It takes off the first two layers of paint and when you get that off you can hit it with the acetone and it comes right off! Awesome.
Oh yeah, don't try this with the gear selection display. I ruined mine. Anyone know where I could get another one? I'll post pics later if anyone has any Qs.
Also, I got tired of scrubbing with q-tips and acetone and tried something new. I found out that these faces are rather tough. I used my dremel on it's lowest setting with a 1 1/2" BRASS wire brush. It worked great! It takes off the first two layers of paint and when you get that off you can hit it with the acetone and it comes right off! Awesome.
Oh yeah, don't try this with the gear selection display. I ruined mine. Anyone know where I could get another one? I'll post pics later if anyone has any Qs.
#41
12-29-2008, 02:31 PM
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I did mine Friday night. Came out great, just not sure if I like the fact that the #74 blue leds don't spread the light around quite as much. I would certainly go with the wide angle ones if I did it again. I used a plastic fork to get the needles off and that worked great.
Also, I got tired of scrubbing with q-tips and acetone and tried something new. I found out that these faces are rather tough. I used my dremel on it's lowest setting with a 1 1/2" BRASS wire brush. It worked great! It takes off the first two layers of paint and when you get that off you can hit it with the acetone and it comes right off! Awesome.
Oh yeah, don't try this with the gear selection display. I ruined mine. Anyone know where I could get another one? I'll post pics later if anyone has any Qs.
Also, I got tired of scrubbing with q-tips and acetone and tried something new. I found out that these faces are rather tough. I used my dremel on it's lowest setting with a 1 1/2" BRASS wire brush. It worked great! It takes off the first two layers of paint and when you get that off you can hit it with the acetone and it comes right off! Awesome.
Oh yeah, don't try this with the gear selection display. I ruined mine. Anyone know where I could get another one? I'll post pics later if anyone has any Qs.
I ended up doing the odometer display and the acetone melted right through that clear part so I had to replace it with Theatre Gels (transparent colored plastic pieces they use on stage lighting for color) and glued it on, well everything is nice and blue now!
#42
12-29-2008, 09:58 PM
#44
01-28-2009, 12:05 AM
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For my XLT the part number for the gear selector is 4L3Z7A110AA and costs like $12. E-mail Domenic dstangelo@tasca.com, he's always been super helpful to me.
Was that for the original black?
#45
01-28-2009, 12:07 AM
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J