Originally Posted by Smokewagun

So, where's the lowdown? I'm thinking new pads to elininate the dust... or Kleen-Wheels. I don't know how Kleens will look on my truck with factory 20's, though. Anyway, how are these new pads with towing? I've heard some eat up rotors. Thanks for any info.

Smoke

Originally Posted by tomclem

I didn't take pictures so a long-winded explaination does little. If you've done brakes before, you probably already know it's best to have the truck in neutral with the emergency brake off(at least I do it that way). Of course, I use good jacks and jackstands as backup to make sure I still have a leg or arm after I'm done. Starting with the front(which is the hardest, due to having two pistons per caliper to deal with vs one on the rears), once you remove the wheel, you can either pull the caliper off or depress it with a long flathead screwdriver. I was taught to just use the screwdriver to force the piston back to open the caliper completely by getting it b/n the inner pad and the rotor and slowly forcing it back into the caliper using the inner pad. If you prefer to pull the caliper and use a C clamp, more power to you, either way will work. The easiest way I found on the front to do this is remove the two caliper bolts first and slide the caliper out a little and you'll be able to see the rotor and inner pad easier up top. The pads for the front don't actually connect to the caliper, like the rears, but rather connect to a mounting bracket above and below the caliper. Once the piston is depressed, the caliper will slide right out and you'll notice the pads connected to the upper and lower brackets. There are two clip like hangers that stick into each pad top and bottom that pull straight out. They function to keep the pad off the rotors when your foot is off the brake. The brackets that hold the pads in have a small release on the end and if you use a small flathead screw driver and push it up the pads will come out. You can reuse these brackets and hangers. I haven't seen a setup like this on previous brake jobs. The fronts are different some for me. I use carb cleaner to clean up the brackets and a compressor to blow off the dust, etc.. Reinstall the opposite way. I had a third hand to help hold in the pads while putting the caliper back on b/c be warned, the pistons are made of a ceramic/porcelin like material and it will chip if you force it on. The pads have a notch that the piston slides over so be careful. I chipped mine a little on one but there was enough surface area to do the job, no harm done.
The rear brakes are a piece of cake. Remove the tire, depress the piston with a screwdriver(or remove caliper and depress with C clamp). Slide off caliper. The inner pad pulls straight out. The outer pad will come off by using your hands and push up and out on pad. You'll see the pad has a clip like piece that slide over the caliper and the pad has a couple groves that slide into place in the caliper. Easy as that. Keep in mind, with each wheel you do, keep a check on your fluid level in the reservoir(? spelling). Each time you depress the a piston the fluid level will rise. I didn't have to draw off any fluid but I did in older trucks. Be careful on your test drive b/c it'll take a minute for the brake lines to tighten up so the pedal may hit the floor a few times before they start to compensate. Sorry I didn't take any pics.

Originally Posted by tomclem

I have to say without a doubt, I'm extremely happy with my 100 dollar brake job. I have an 05' with 50k and changed my pads all the way around this weekend. I don't know if there are other threads on the how-to-do for brakes but I can give a low-down if anybody is curious. Took about 1.5 hours to do including the tire rotations and all. I've heard many people on here talk how good the Carquest blues and the Wagner thermo-quiets are. Well, I narrowed it down to these two as well. Here's my choice and why. Both cost about 100 bucks for both the front and back pads together. Both looked about same, both bonded, both about the same thickness. The Wagners had a heat dissipation line cut into them which the Carquest pads didn't. I found the Wagners at OReily Auto Parts here in Augusta, GA(Home of the Masters-yeah baby!!!!) I chose the Wagners for one main reason, the WARRANTY. Lifetime replacement for the Wagners, two years for the Carquest blues. Once I wear these Wagners out, I'll take them back and get a brand new set. That was the seller. I've had them on a couple days now and not a single screech or pull or noise whatsoever. This brake job, done myself, saved me nearly two hundred bucks. Just thought I would throw that out there for anyone considering doing it themselves, it's quite easy.

Originally Posted by azmidget91

wait untill you need rotors they are not cheap, i needed them at 40k because the bearings were going bad, but found www.rotorpros.com and they were actually cheaper the stock and no turn around time like power slot

Originally Posted by bdholsin

Well, I just ordered the rotors from rotorpros.com and pads (Wagner Thermoquiet) from Rockauto.com. By this time next week I should be stopping on a dime.

Originally Posted by LariatRocks

I PRAY you had your rotors trued, or you'll rip through those pads in a month.

Originally Posted by LariatRocks

Carquest has drilled, slotted rotors for the 08's priced at $60.00 each out here...