Autospring Spacer install question
Autospring Spacer install question
Ok I have been reading in this thread but I have a couple questions
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ng+kit+install
How hard is it to pop the upper ball joint back into place. I have never worked with ball joints before.
Having not worked on ball joints should I have a shop do it or try it myself?
I put my pullies and AF1 on this truck myself and have done 2 long tube header installs on my corvettes and various other regular maintenance things.
Thanks for any help.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ng+kit+install
How hard is it to pop the upper ball joint back into place. I have never worked with ball joints before.
Having not worked on ball joints should I have a shop do it or try it myself?
I put my pullies and AF1 on this truck myself and have done 2 long tube header installs on my corvettes and various other regular maintenance things.
Thanks for any help.
the upper control arm is easy to put back into the knuckle. Just use a 4' pry bar and pull the control arm joint back down into the knuckle... if you don't have a pry bar that bends and causes you to curse at the fact that you don't have my tools available... get a jack and lower the vehicle down onto the jack (with the jack being under the lower control arm) and let the weight of the vehicle help you put the upper control arm back in place.
I used a ratchet strap to put the upper ball joint and the upper control arm back together.
Simply hook one side of the strap to one side of the upper control arm and the other side of the ratchet strap to the other side of the upper control arm and ratchet the mechanism. This way you can guide the ball joint into the upper control arm with your free hand while you incrementally close the gap. This will also allow the strap will hold the assembly together while you get the castle nut started.
Simply hook one side of the strap to one side of the upper control arm and the other side of the ratchet strap to the other side of the upper control arm and ratchet the mechanism. This way you can guide the ball joint into the upper control arm with your free hand while you incrementally close the gap. This will also allow the strap will hold the assembly together while you get the castle nut started.
Originally Posted by Oxlander
I used a ratchet strap to put the upper ball joint and the upper control arm back together.
Simply hook one side of the strap to one side of the upper control arm and the other side of the ratchet strap to the other side of the upper control arm and ratchet the mechanism. This way you can guide the ball joint into the upper control arm with your free hand while you incrementally close the gap. This will also allow the strap will hold the assembly together while you get the castle nut started.
Simply hook one side of the strap to one side of the upper control arm and the other side of the ratchet strap to the other side of the upper control arm and ratchet the mechanism. This way you can guide the ball joint into the upper control arm with your free hand while you incrementally close the gap. This will also allow the strap will hold the assembly together while you get the castle nut started.
Using a spring compressor in there is most likely more work than just popping the ball joint. Plus once you compress the spring you still have the shock to worry about.
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There is no notch to hold the ball joint from spinning. I used jackstands to hold the truck up, then put the jack under the LCA and raised it up until the weight of the truck pushed the two together. Really easy, I think you might be making it harder than it really is.
To directly answer your question, it is a tapered fit. The hole and the stud are both tapered. The stud never actually bottoms out, but forms a tigth fit on the taper. Until you get some pressure on it, it could spin as you try to tighten.



30mm deep well