Pinion seal
Pinion seal
Does anyone know how much is invovled in changing the pininon seal? Is it a matter of just dropping the drive shaft and pulling the pinion out, changing the seal and putting it back together or will the pinion have to be pressed out of the pinion support? I have a tiny leak from this area and would like to fix it.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
I'm not exactly sure but you probally want to get a new driveshaft otherwise its just going to happen again. .
. . probally because hes sitting on 40s and the dealer won't warranty they know was caused by the insane amount of lift hes got.
Originally Posted by last5oh_302
You have a 2005? You should have warranty left. Why not let a dealer worry about it?
I know that wasn't much help if you want to do it yourself, but you just received my
anyway. 
I know that wasn't much help if you want to do it yourself, but you just received my
anyway. 
Have you seen his truck??? I doubt any dealer would touch that thing with a 10 foot pole. If it were my truck I wouldnt let them.
Oh yeah, my 05 just rolled 58,000 yesterday. Warranties are for Sally's and Nancy's
Oh yeah, my 05 just rolled 58,000 yesterday. Warranties are for Sally's and Nancy's
Last edited by Ftruck05; Aug 22, 2007 at 10:26 PM.
Were did you get your gears installed? I would take it to them. I bet they left your original pinon seal in. Thats what 4-wheel parts did with mine, and it leaked so they replaced it. There is no need to replace the driveshaft. I think you may have to pull your carrier/gears out, disconnect the driveshaft, knock the pinion out, replace the seal, and put it together.
Yeah these are just the kind of problems that I am going to have to deal with. I knew all of this before I did anything to the truck.
I know it will be an ongoing problem but if its something I can do really cheap myself, I dont mind doing it once a year or so rather than but a whole new drive shaft.
So if anyone has any knowledge on this, let me know whats up
I know it will be an ongoing problem but if its something I can do really cheap myself, I dont mind doing it once a year or so rather than but a whole new drive shaft.
So if anyone has any knowledge on this, let me know whats up
Originally Posted by kalebarellano
Were did you get your gears installed? I would take it to them. I bet they left your original pinon seal in. Thats what 4-wheel parts did with mine, and it leaked so they replaced it. There is no need to replace the driveshaft. I think you may have to pull your carrier/gears out, disconnect the driveshaft, knock the pinion out, replace the seal, and put it together.
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Originally Posted by kalebarellano
Were did you get your gears installed? I would take it to them. I bet they left your original pinon seal in. Thats what 4-wheel parts did with mine, and it leaked so they replaced it. There is no need to replace the driveshaft. I think you may have to pull your carrier/gears out, disconnect the driveshaft, knock the pinion out, replace the seal, and put it together.
The proper method of replacing your pinion seal involves tearing the axle down, popping the old seal out, replacing the pinion crush sleeve and putting it all back together. Reset the pinion bearing preload to spec and drive on. This is how it's supposed to be done, since removing the nut that holds the pinion flange on changes the bearing preload. The bearing preload is set with a crushable spacer, so naturally once it's crushed (like when the axle is assembled from the factory, or whenever the ring and pinion are replaced), there ain't no going back.
The ghetto fabulous method of replacing pinion seals goes something like, pull the flange off, pop the old seal out, hammer the new seal in, reinstall the flange and hope you got the bearing preload set right. I've done them this way, sometimes I get them right, most times I don't. It's hard to get an accurate "before" reading for pinion bearing preload this way, since the drag from the axles and carrier are affecting whatever reading you get (pinion bearing preload is checked with an inch/lbs torque wrench on the pinion nut...however many in/lbs it takes to rotate the pinion).
If in doubt, get someone in the know to replace your pinion seal. At best, if you get the bearing preload wrong, you'll just get a little gear whine. At worst, you'll destroy the pinion bearings and/or pinion gear.
The ghetto fabulous method of replacing pinion seals goes something like, pull the flange off, pop the old seal out, hammer the new seal in, reinstall the flange and hope you got the bearing preload set right. I've done them this way, sometimes I get them right, most times I don't. It's hard to get an accurate "before" reading for pinion bearing preload this way, since the drag from the axles and carrier are affecting whatever reading you get (pinion bearing preload is checked with an inch/lbs torque wrench on the pinion nut...however many in/lbs it takes to rotate the pinion).
If in doubt, get someone in the know to replace your pinion seal. At best, if you get the bearing preload wrong, you'll just get a little gear whine. At worst, you'll destroy the pinion bearings and/or pinion gear.
Originally Posted by kalebarellano
I didn't have to replace mine when my seal leaked.
i have a 97 f150 and me and a buddy replaced one in about 45 min. the only reason it took that long was because i had to run to autozone and get some gear oil. i may have gotten lucky, but it has been in for about 12k miles and there hasnt been any problems. but i would listen to quintin just incase. if you are a do-it yourselfer, then to hell with it. my seal cost 9 bucks i think. but i already had a puller and all the tools. so it is up to you. you can take a chance with the bearing or take it in. just my experience. by the way i am NO and i mean NO pro mech.





