It's the nearest to the cab driver side. I can turn but the spark plug can't pick up the plug. I put a mirror but can not see anything wrong (can see a lot elseware) Any coments how to pick up the plug? I tried with a strong magnet but nothing nada!

 

Try using a spark plug socket with a rubber gromet inside that holds on to the plug to make pulling it out easy.
Norm

 

The OTC spark plug tool has the rubber gromet. I'm thinking what can be happening:

1. I loose the spark following the guidelines in the TSB06-5-9. when i pick up the Spark plug tool, the tool came without the plug.

2. I try to pick up the plug using a nose pliers but can't go up

3. I thight the plug again and appears ok.

4. I loose again the plug until i feel the end of the tread and when I up the spark plug tool, it came with NADA NOTHING!

5. Again try to pick up wit ha telescoping magnet (heavy duty) and NADA, again with the long nose pliers and nothing!

6. Again thight the plug and apply Aerokroli again as indicated by TSB 06-5-9

Please help!

PS. The same thing happen with another plug. the plugs are the nearest from the cab driving seat and the 2nd nearest from the cab pasanger seat.[/LIST]

 

Strange, I can't figure that one out

 

Well... before I begin... let me ask you something:

Did you try turning the plug clockwise and tighten it back into the engine to make sure you didn't bust something?

Because if you start turning it clockwise, and it just keeps turning and turning and turning then you for sure messed something up. However, if you are able to tighten it back up as if you dropped a new plug in the engine... then you have another issue.

Your other issue might be the threads are slightly messed up either on the block or the plug, either towards the top of the plug hole in the block, or on the bottom of the plug. What you might want to try doing is getting back and if you are a small/short person like I am, sit on the engine (just use common sense and don't sit on anything that will break) as it will give you a direct shot down into where you are looking. Then with the pair of pliers grab ahold of the nonsensed plug and turn it counterclockwise with the pliers while you are pulling up on the plug. That should be able to get it out.

Another thing you can try doing is getting a piece of plastic tubing that will fit around the ceramic portion of the plug. Go to any local hardware store and stick your plug into the tubes until you find one that securely holds the plug. Get about 1 foot of that. When you get back home, stick that onto the stuck plug and turn and it counterclockwise... and while you are turning it, try jiggling it around... by using the plastic tubing, it will allow you to have more room for jiggle space. Another suggestion would be to actually get some super glue and apply a few drops on the inside of that plastic tube and then stick it on the plug, and wait a few minutes while the glue adheres. Then try busting it loose.

If you really can't get it off, but if you can turn it clockwise and get it properly seated back into the engine block, then reinsert all of the plugs, and bring it by a mechanic and ask him to remove that plug and you could have it just put a new one in right there and drive it home with 1 new plug and when you get home, start over again on the other 7 plugs (and hope you don't run into that same problem, but in a different cylinder).

As far as that, I am pretty much out of ideas.

 

This is a clear case of being on the verge of broken plug.

See the spark plug has 2 parts that are press fit together. You have backed out the entire spark plug past the threads, but the lower part is still "stuck" in the block and now freely rotates where the 2 parts of the plug come together. At this point you haven't "technically" broken it, but you are short on options.

I had 2 of these spinners.

Your best chance at this point is to try and "break" it without breaking the ceramic insulator. I did this by using a pair of needle nosed pliars and pulling directly up with both hands with all my strength. This basically separates the press fit of the 2 parts of the spark plug leaving the lower behind. If all goes well the upper and ceramic will come out whole. Then you follow the TSB for removing the lower. But make sure you pull straight up and don't crank it side to side. The last thing you want is broken ceramic in your cylinder.

Sorry to hear about your plug. take your time with that extraction process.

-ii

 

What has happened is the threaded part of the plug has separated from the rest of the plug. These plugs are basically 3 pieces, the porcelain, the nut and the nose/ground shield. They are assembled and the nut is crimped to the nose/ground shield holding the porcelain in place.
Put it back together and warm the engine up again before trying to pull the broken plugs out with needle nose pliers. I have a pair that are wider then a normal needle nose that I use for this.

 

Hi Manual F150!

Yes i do. everything looks Ok.

That's it

I seat on the engine it helps but can't work freely in that plug. Try to turn and pulley with the pliers with no result.

I'll try this trick! make sense to me!

The things turn worst. I already have in the other cylinder head a broken plug.




Any suggestions about the broken plug? What is my case?

Mode 1: The ground electrode shield is left behind as an empty shell (Figure 1).


or

Mode 2: The porcelain center and ground electrode shield is left behind and only the upper jamb nut comes out. In this case more soaking is required and long-reach nose pliers should be used to grasp and remove the porcelain center from the ground electrode shield (Figure 2).





Am I IN THE MODE 1?



thanks!

 

Wow! I think Ford needs to come out with a 3rd possibility, because I don't think yours is either 1 or 2 above. It's similiar to #1, but your shield isn't hollow. What ever it is that the shield 'shields' is still in there. I don't think you'd be able to get the thread tap in there... Huh!