Turned out to not be the PS pump, but rather the tensioner and idler pullys....now I can hear my exhaust again.....and a clanking noise....



Now I get to do two leaf springs......still cheaper than a payment every month!

 

Treat her for 277k miles of great service with a set of custom Deavers

 

Geez guys, I feel like a wimp, my '05 only has 118,000 + on her.

 

My 04 still has 107K haha

 

I hope to go 277k. Im only at 92k. But then again i just bought the truck or it would have over 300 with me driving it.

 

2004 FX4 here, dont drive it much as i have a company truck also. So after 65k miles I have replaced all 4 window regulators that failed and let the window crash to the bottom of the door, also replaced the door window switch. replaced the exhaust manifold (infamous crack), both tube running boards rusted out and replaced, and a set of shocks. Thats it, love the truck and im never selling it!

 

Keep it...the yellow is a collector's item!! I test drove a yellow '04 before buying my arizona beige lariat.

 

Last post above was on 10-08-12. As of today mine now has 66,500 miles. I still pretty much only use the truck for towing, but now the trailers have gotten a bit heavier and longer, we traded campers and now have a Passport 3220BH (35'5", 7500lbs) and also been towing around a S150 or T190 Bobcat a few times a year. Of 2300 miles last year probably 80%+ was towing.

Since the last post the only things that I have replaced on the truck was the tires since they were 11 years old, went from Nitto Terra Grapplers to Cooper STTs. The passenger side exhaust manifold cracked Labor Day weekend last year, it and all manifold bolts were replaced at a local shop for $520. And I had to recharge the A/C last summer. Otherwise just change the oil once a year.

 

Supercab FX4 here, starting to get a short list of things to fix at about 130,000 miles.

The biggest problem is that the transmission has been slipping a little, mainly on take-off or between 1 and 2 it seems like. I have an appointment for a fluid and filter change today. It's been a few miles since it was done so I'm hoping that helps it, though I'm not optimistic as the fluid is clear and full.

-Fuel door is flopping open (ordered the part today)

-Broken exhaust manifold (going to do headers, just waiting to see what is up with the trans first and do it all at once)

- Passenger's door is rusting on the bottom. Driver's door and front bumper assembly need replaced from deer damage anyway so I'm going to replace both doors, the front bumper assembly, and have some other paintwork done at the same time. The paint under the gas door is bubbling up too.

- It's always had a rough idle. I've changed the plugs and had the coils checked, so I'm suspecting fuel injectors. I have a low mileage set waiting to go in and will do plugs and coils at the same time (any recommendation on coils?). Also starting to completely cut out for a second while driving occasionally, but no check engine lights. Doesn't seem like a misfire, exactly either.

- I've never changed the shocks in it so they need done as well. It's not lifted but does have a leveling kit. Any recommendations for shocks?

I don't really drive it much (about 6,000 miles a year) and I plan on keeping this truck for a long time, so I don't mind a little work...it's cheaper than a truck payment!

 

I've had my 2004 FX4 for two years and two months and about 24k miles, and it's currently at just under 137k miles. I try to do a little TLC every oil change or other oil change. So far I've got every fluid exchanged except the front diff (that's the next oil change). New front brakes about 18k miles ago and rear brakes about 10k miles ago. I had a set of new tires put on when I first bought it and they are probably about 60% tread with regular rotations (very even wear). Fuel filter was replaced last oil change.

I had to fix my driver's side window switches (there's a how-to somewhere on the forums that shows you how to take apart the window switch controls and clean the contacts, saved me a little cash there) and replace the 4wd vacuum solenoid on the firewall right when I bought the truck (4wd didn't work).

I also had to have serpentine belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley replaced. The tensioner pulley had actually seized in the middle of a road trip and I ended up having to have it fixed at a dealership in Las Vegas on Christmas Eve. I remember the day before I left that I could hear a weird humming noise that would change pitch with the engine RPM, but when I had it checked out by the dealership they said everything was fine. Next day, I get halfway into my trip to have the humming noise turn into a very bad rattle. I was not happy with my normal service center. I could have had it fixed myself for much cheaper than the Las Vegas service center ended up charging me. At least it wasn't worse, it could have just snapped the serpentine belt in the middle of nowhere and ended up being stuck on the side of the road.

Then my sunroof cam brackets broke and my sunroof wouldn't close all the way. Fixed that myself with a sunroof rebuild kit for $125 from the sunroof doctor.

My fuel door broke last September so it flops open and close, haven't got around to fixing it properly (I've got velcro on there now).

Currently my steering wheel has a little bit of slop to it and my last oil change (which I now get changed at a personal mechanic shop near my house) my mechanic said my right tie-rod end and right sway bar link were worn. I also have some seepage around the power steering pump shaft, not so much that I have spots on my driveway though. So I have a bit to do this year. I decided to do both tie rod ends and sway bar links and while I'm at it, new rear shocks and new front strut/coil assemblies. They should get here tomorrow. I don't normally like doing fluid changes myself (I hate dealing with the mess) but I think I'll do the front diff as well since that's the only thing I haven't yet touched. I also have a slight stumble at idle but no CEL, I guess I should throw some Seafoam in it and go from there.

All-in-all, most of the things I have had replaced are wear-and-tear type items and I generally try to stay on top of it before it bites me. I also know that my truck had the cam phasers replaced right before I bought the truck, about 112k miles. She's very quiet and I've been using Motorcraft 5w20 religiously and changing the oil right around 5k miles. I tow an enclosed trailer with a RZR-S, two fourwheelers and enough gear to camp all weekend several times a year, one or two dump runs every year, and maybe another haul out to green waste. My goal is to keep this truck well after 200k miles so I plan to take good care of her even though my friends rib me about not having a bigger truck (I don't need one, quite frankly, neither do they IMO). The only thing I wish I had was the 6.5' bed.

Other than that, regular wash and wax and armor-all on the seats and interior keep it in great shape cosmetically. I have a little bit of rust bubbling up under the paint on the corner of my hood but that's all that I've noticed so far. Next set of tires I think I'd like to go a little bigger but... it's not a big deal if I don't. She might be stock but she's beautiful to me.

 

FWIW, I bought Monroe Quick-Struts for the front (loaded strut/coil assemblies) and Monroe Sensa-Trac Load Adjusting shocks for the rear and I will get them tomorrow. I'm excited to feel the difference in ride quality. I thought about getting a leveling kit since I'm putting new shocks and struts on anyway, but I'm not replacing my tires any time soon and I prefer to keep the rake anyway so I'm not nose high while towing.

 

I have an 2004 f150 fx4. Recently I've been having issues with the clock display. When I first start it in the morning the display won't work. Radio works fine just no display. After driving to to work (20-30 min) it will eventually turn on. Now the weird part. When its not working I can turn on my headlights and it'll come on and turn off when I turn off the headlights. Any ideas?

 

04 F150 4x4 STX 4.6 V8 Still running strong. Only use Full Synthic motor oil, no bends! Motor still sounds like new! 210K on it.

 

Drive with the lights on? I'm baffled on that one...

 

Finally got my springs (yes it's been two months) going from 1,700# to 1,900# springs and adding a 3" block to replace the 2" block to bring back a little rake after I leveled her last year...not fond of the drop when the trailer is hooked up...but then again maybe with the new springs it wouldn't drop...

The stack is thicker for the higher rating but all other measurements are the same.