Add me to the list! Worked like a charm. 1/4 turn was all it took.

 

1/4 turn did it for me as well. I would say it feels normal now--no desire to pump at all. Helped with the creaking pedal as well.

 

The reason I came upon this thread-Sunday night I was driving in sandals that have a bigger sole than my normal shoes. I was driving on auto-pilot coming to a stop and WTF?, I surge forward, I have to slam on the brakes. Turns out I hit both go and stop at the same time!!! My wife looked at me with that glare that says " YOU, you claim to be the safest driver on the planet, no ticket nor accident in decades and you almost rear end the Dover White Camry ahead of us in broad daylight in no traffic on dry pavement?" The words she said were "I guess the seat belts work." Point is this is a SAFETY ISSUE, after the adjustment I have .75" between the lowest brake point and the highest acceleration point. I backed t up one turn (360 degrees), it took 15 mins.
Tip-borrow a little nail polish from wifey, draw a line from the bolt you have to hold with the needle nose pliers (it's the one harder to get at, not the 7mm end cap) to the end cap piece that is 7mm. This will give you a point of referance.

 

what page are the pics on? i've read 10 random pages, can't take 15 more.

 

I believe that it's page 20.

 

I'm SO glad I found this thread! I've had this problem with my 2000 F-150 (V6) for years. About three years ago, when having the brakes done, a mechanic suggested putting a new master cylinder in, but it didn't really solve it. So I've been basically living with it, and even recently several different mechanics have said (guessed) that it needs another master cylinder, a complete power flush, maybe new calipers, or adjusting the back brakes (which were already adjusted as close as they should be).

Then yesterday after reading this thread I took the master off, then using a stiff wire with white insulation that I could mark on, measured how far in the piston was, then subtracting the portion of the master body that goes in the booster, determined that the tip of the actuator rod was around 3/16" away from the piston when installed! I went ahead and backed out the rod about 2 full turns (about two more threads exposed) and put it back together to test.

For the first time in YEARS I had a good solid brake pedal! The drop had been almost halfway before, and that was with new front pads and new rear shoes. But it was a bit too stiff, so I took the master back off and turned the rod back in about 1/2 turn, and it feels like a brand new truck now. I went to an incline and put it in neutral and it rolls back fine, so think it's about right (brakes not rubbing).

In fact I almost rear-ended someone recently because of the pedal drop and poor braking, so finding this solution was a God send.

So a big THANKS to to OP, and to the mods for making this a sticky. Wish I'd seen it years ago

BTW, here's a pic of the rod for folks coming to this thread late (like me).

As-said, just use needle nose to hold the splined part, then a small wrench or small channel locks to back out the black tip.

 

great tip. turned the rod one full turn out. took it for a ride and was most impressed. came back and jacked the front and the wheel was dragging. turned it in a 1/4 turn and took it for a ride. still dragging some when jacked. turned it in another 1/4 so at this point it was a 1/2 turn out. brakes did not grab like the first test drive but much better than they had been. brought it back and jacked it and the wheel spun easily. may tweak it in the future but i think the 1/2 turn out that it is now is good.

thanks again for sharing the tip.

 

Instead of having to take the wheel off each time use an infrared thermometer on the rotor. Hot=drag.

 

I gave mine about 1/8th of a turn today. Wow did it help. Now when I brake the pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor. Going for a drive to see if it is too tight.

 

This is AMAZING!! I always thought the brake pedal was soft but just thought that's the way it's suppose to be. I did about 3/4-1 full turn and it's a night and day difference!! This is a GREAT find!!!

 

I gave the actuator rod a full turn on my 2003. BIG difference. The pedal is still a bit spongy for my liking but its firmed up a great deal. Before, it was like stepping on a loaf of fresh bread.

I plan to drive it for a week or two and see how it goes. Maybe another 1/4 turn to really firm up the pedal.

Many thanks to the OP and all the other contributors!

 

Add me to the full-turn club. Much-improved feel, and no drag. To verify, I coasted to a stop on a slight incline, and felt no drag/hesitation when coming to a stop nor when starting to go backwards, then drove a bit on the highway, (cautiously) felt each rotor, and all were cool.

It may actually stand another 1/4 turn or so, but I'll leave it where it is for now.

As an aside, even with the new adjustment, I STILL can't lock up the tires, even when standing on the pedal, and even when on a damp road surface. I do have 265 Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors on there, which have great grip, but still... Makes me wish I'd upgraded the front lines to braided S/S, maybe?

Andy

('99 4x4 Lariat Ext Cab)

 

Add me to this list of satisfied folks! Thank you, THANK YOU, for posting this up!

 

You can also test for drag w/ a temp gun. I think my rotors run about 130 degrees after a drive around the block. Your temp will depend on your usage. High temp= drag. Are you engaging the anti lock when you stand on it?

 

Unfortunately, my gun was 1, 400 miles away when I did the adjustment. ;-)

And my Abs is deactivated, but regardless, no, I cannot lock the wheels up.

Andy