Holy Crap, finally a sticky!!!!!!! This is amazing! Beers to rms8 for Sticky with it!!! I was at the dealer yesterday, talked with the same advisor and we talked about this adjustment. He said he keeps forgetting to do it to his truck, and asked me how my brake pedal is. IT IS STILL FREAKING AWESOME WITH ZERO PROBLEMS!!!

 

I have a 2007 KR screw...After reading the posts, I figured about 2/3 of a turn would be about right.It was...firmed up the pedal real nice. I pumped the brake with engine off to remove vacuum. I also jacked er up and verified proper brake caliper operation after words, with help from an eager helper. Everything works beautifully. Like the cow said...."Happy Moo Year".

 

Glad this resolved the issue!

Have a great 2010 guys!

 

I had the same problem BUT before doing this I took my truck up to my sons shop and figgured I'd bleed the brakes..it just "FELT" like there might be air in the line..the pedal was soft and if your foot was to the right of the pedal or your foot is big..you would sometime hit the gas pedal and accelerate while trying to stop..not good.
Anyway we bled the system..and he did it by his book which was going frt to back left to right , the 1st time it was the same..maybe a pubic hair worse...hard to say sitting on the rack not moving.So then for the hell of it we bled it the way I was taught and what I alway believed to be the only way to bleed a diagonally split ABS system..Rt/rear...L/rear...Rt/frt and left/frt.The pedal came up and feels fine.I'm now curious..if I would of adjusted the actuator rod..something that is adjustable and I'm familiar with on older or worn systems..and lets say it came up as people here are stating.But then down the road I get a brake job done and they bleed the system would the brakes then drag?
Just something to think about.
Like I said I've adjusted the rod before.But the ones I've seen adjusted were because of worn seals in the master not holding proper pressure,calipers rusted on the slides etc.. and adjusting the rod compensated for it.
Of course IF bleeding my brakes did not take care of it YES I would of adjusted it to see if it helped.But like I said I'm just curious if I would of adjusted it FIRST and then down the road would of bled the system..would it of taken away all the needed free play?

 

The dealer bled mine rr, lr,rf,lf and it made no difference at all. After reading this thread from the beginning, i still recommend marking the rod with a silver sharpie, so you can go back and re adjust if necessary when you have any type of brake work done. Like RMS8 said, this is a condition that most of our trucks had since new. I would not do this if you have alot of miles on your truck or worn out brake parts. Anytime you replace pads, rotors, calipers, wheel cylinders or any valve, abs pump booster, etc., you should always check brake operation at all wheels to see if you have any brake drag and that they are operating correctly.

 

Spot on!

During the time my truck spent at the dealership, the brakes had been bled at least twice. Always start with the basics. The rod is a sort-of last resort when ALL other possibilities have been ruled out.

 

Agreed...always start with the basics.

 

I wonder if other owners bled thier brakes before adjusting the rod? And how would there be air in the lines of a truck with 10 or 12 k on it? I am trying to remember if my brakes were good when new, and went soft after a dealer visit. They (dealer)were trying to figure out what was wrong with my trans shift, and they brake torqued the crap out of it, because I got it back and the brakes never felt adjusted right after.I just cant remember what they were like before.I wonder if they boiled the brake fluid.That would cause air? Looks like I got some bleedin to do.....just to be sure.Will report back.

 

Please be aware that the resolution from this thread ONLY PERTAINS to the soft pedal problem if the soft pedal was present from the day the truck rolled off the lot brand new. Do not explore this fix until all other avenues have been explored.

 

Anyone else got a rattle after doing this? I've got one that seems to be somewhere around the booster area.

 

it might have been said earlier in the forum, but i havent come across it, but where is the actuator rod located and does it have to be done by the dealer? my brakes been spongy, and like 1 user said, i do have a problem where i have a size 13 foot, and when i press the brake, it goes far enuf to the point where my foot starts to hit the gas at the same time.

 

Read and you will find the pics. here.

 

Am I only turning the very end of the rod. On mine the entire rod seems to be loose and will turn either right or left. Do i just hold the rod with pliers and turn the head? What is the silver grooved part that is deeper inside the booster?

Thanks for the help.

 

I am trying to decide if this is right for me... Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I have replaced the front brakes, bled the lines, replaced the back rotors, bled the lines again, same thing, replaced the master cylinder and bled the brakes again ran over 128fluid ounces of brake fluid through the system, it is better but the dang pedal is still soft! Seems like I should try this??


After reading more I feel I should mention my brakes worked awesome before I trailered 9000lbs through the mountains and warped he crap out of my rotors and the fluid turned black. lol, so any other ideas on what to replace? I may start a new thread if anyone feels it is not the same thing.

 

Anytime my wife drives my truck, which is very rare, the brakes feel really firm afterwards. Two days later and they are back to normal. It's very weird, I don't know what the hell she's doing when she's hitting the brakes.