Originally Posted by ChrisAdams (Post 2476170)

continued;


So if you have a memory seat as the only available seat/track you can still use it. Rather than waste time with the memory module and the elaborate wiring you can trim all of it away, leaving just the 8 wire power control switch with the wires routed to the 3 motors , two for each motor and one 12volt power (always hot) and a GOOD ground.

Power seat motors work like power window motors or power lock motors. Two wires to each motor. The switch does all the work. When you push it one way, power goes down one wire while the alternate wire is grounded. Move the switch back the other way and power goes down the second wire and the first wire is now grounded. This reverses the direction of the motor.


Here is a quick color match for removing the memory module and by passing the 50 or so foot of wire needed for the memory, but not needed for simple power seats;

Front up/down;
Yellow/Light Blue into Yellow
Red/Light Blue into Red/Yellow

Forward/rearward
Red/White into Gray/Orange
Yellow/White into Gray/White

Rear Up/Down
Yellow/Light Green into Gray/Light Blue
Red/Light Green into Gray/Yellow

With this you can bypass the entire memory module system, making the seat a standard power seat. The three switches on the side can be removed and by putting either a stock deluxe side plate or the chrome side plate. Or you can leave the switches. They are ‘contact ground’ switches thus can be used for seat warmers, or anything else you would control with a grounding contact switch.

Assuming you are putting power seats into a model that does not option power seats in any fashion, you will need to string power to the seat. You can ground it through one of the seat bolts or you can route the ground under the carpet and ground it there. The ground must be very good, very clean and preferably large. I wired my seats in with ten gauge wire, using a 20 amp fuse. Never forget to fuse the seats. You could use a circuit breaker as an alternative, but always fuse electrical components. You can access power directly in the cab under the steering column, or from the fuse box, or route it from the battery itself. Remember to protect the wire with sheathing where you route it under the carpet.

So the job of converting to power seats can be cheap or expensive, easy or hard mostly depending on the model truck you are working with and the parts you can find.
Doing a straight swap matching seats into a truck that optioned power seats is an hours work.
Alternately, doing a tan SuperCrew memory seat w base swap to a flint XL regular cab could easily take 4-6 hours and require removing wires, removing modules, adding side plates adding a wire harness, and modding the base for tilt forward.


Anyone else who has done this mod please feel free to contribute their input and corrections.
Thanks
Chris

Originally Posted by HFT (Post 5138447)

I converted my 2005 150 xlt to a power seat. The manual said there was a connection harness in a hole in the carpet under the seat. There wasn't. Short version - remove entire seat. pull up carpet from back drivers side. The main wiring harness runs between carpet and floor where floor drops off. Find the large orange wire. Strip about 1" insulation and solder a 14ga wire to it about 2ft long. Add a ground wire near the same spot to floor. push wires into existing harness casing. Bring wires out hole in carpet and replace carpet. Wiring done. Add a 30amp inline fuse to hot wire and connect to electric seat. Add ground to seat. Test. Smile.

Originally Posted by ChrisAdams (Post 2476170)

continued;

up/down;
Yellow/Light Blue into Yellow
Red/Light Blue into Red/Yellow

Forward/rearward
Red/White into Gray/Orange
Yellow/White into Gray/White

Rear Up/Down
Yellow/Light Green into Gray/Light Blue
Red/Light Green into Gray/Yellow