i've got an 05 with LS, and i've been experiencing some slack at take off...it's only got 10k on it, but the dealer says bad leaf spring bushing...they also looked at the friction bearing(i think) in the LS...those he said were infamously bad and have been replacing a few on the newer models...might check into that....def. has to do with the LS and would cause a shake....hope it helps.
nimrod

 

Hey man, I think your being taken. I have had a couple of driveshafts damaged and I have NEVER had to pay that much for one. I got quoted somewhere around that number from the dealership for a full OEM replacement once on my 2001 Chevy Z71. If you can keep the ends of yours you can have one built for you and welded to those ends for around $200. I don't know what Ford is selling these shafts for but I have had two built and they weren't near that expensive. I'm hard on my vehicles so I know a thing or two about damaged driveline parts. I don't abuse, I just push sometimes past a part's limit. I would surely shop around first.

 

The 8.8 rear axle is a notoriously weak piece (real POS), especially the LS version. Why they put a Mustang rear end in a heavy truck I have no idea. Cheap bastids. The spider gear carrier doesn't have enough beef (metal). Mine cracked into two pieces and took everything in the pumpkin with it. $2400cdn later I have an Eaton LS with carbon clutches, new r&p, seals, axles, bearings, LS, etc. Been holding up nice but I'm told to swap the whole thing out for a 9.75 from an F250 F350. I've never done any burnouts in mine but I do stomp on the gas good and tranny has jerry mod for firmer shifts.

If it's a driveshaft length issue, why not just loosen the leaf spring clamp nuts and push the entire axle back 1/2inch on the springs? Unless there's a pin in the assembly. Can't remember last time I had spring clamps off. Cheaper than a new driveshaft and likely such a small distance wheel won't look off-centre in the wheel well. Anyway, just a thought.