Transfer Case Fluid Change
Originally Posted by Josiah
Any reasoning for this opinion (not calling you out, just curious).
However I wouldn't be against using synthetic in the engine.I used Mobil1 for years in the hotrods.But due to frequent oil changes and not seeing any benefits I just run dino oil in them now.I do use Motorcraft syn blend in my truck.
In my experience any problem with synthetics in gear applications where it is not specified has to do with them being TOO slippery. I put Mobil 1 in a transmission that called for motor oil and then couldn't shift it. Apparently the synchros, which are really not much more than little clutches, wouldn't get enough grip to match the gear speeds. I switched back to regular oil and it was OK, though it actually took awhile for the film of Mobil 1 to wear off of the synchros! I suspect the same thing happens in an LS rear, which depends on a clutch pack to engage properly. Since there is no clutch or synchro in our transfer cases (that I know of, anyway), I don't know why there would be a problem. Plus, synthetic ATF is made to use in a clutch application in a transmission, so they probably have the friction thing worked into their formula.
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I do the transfer cases every 30K with plain ole Mercon ATF no problems. Even comes out pretty clean.
Couple tips for ya...
A suction gun makes the job take 10 minutes tops. It looks like a grease gun but just has a hose on the end, and can be found at any parts store for 10 bucks.
Undo the fill plug first so if you strip it you don't screw yourself stranded with an empty transfer case after undoing the drain plug.
I don't know what you have on the new body style trucks, but the older ones have a PITA square drive hole that strips real easy being aluminum, or a allen head. I recommend simple brass pipe plugs you can use a wrench on from home depot.
I fill it as much as possible on the level, then move the truck pointing downhill a little bit to get another squirt from the gun in.
Supermotors is down right now or I could show some helpful pics.
Adrianspeeder
Couple tips for ya...
A suction gun makes the job take 10 minutes tops. It looks like a grease gun but just has a hose on the end, and can be found at any parts store for 10 bucks.
Undo the fill plug first so if you strip it you don't screw yourself stranded with an empty transfer case after undoing the drain plug.
I don't know what you have on the new body style trucks, but the older ones have a PITA square drive hole that strips real easy being aluminum, or a allen head. I recommend simple brass pipe plugs you can use a wrench on from home depot.
I fill it as much as possible on the level, then move the truck pointing downhill a little bit to get another squirt from the gun in.
Supermotors is down right now or I could show some helpful pics.
Adrianspeeder
Our diffs already have synthetic fluids in em from the factory so there would be no harm in going back with a full synthetic in those, although the transfer case using Mercon V, IDK about.
Originally Posted by adrianspeeder
I do the transfer cases every 30K with plain ole Mercon ATF no problems. Even comes out pretty clean.
Couple tips for ya...
A suction gun makes the job take 10 minutes tops. It looks like a grease gun but just has a hose on the end, and can be found at any parts store for 10 bucks.
Undo the fill plug first so if you strip it you don't screw yourself stranded with an empty transfer case after undoing the drain plug.
I don't know what you have on the new body style trucks, but the older ones have a PITA square drive hole that strips real easy being aluminum, or a allen head. I recommend simple brass pipe plugs you can use a wrench on from home depot.
I fill it as much as possible on the level, then move the truck pointing downhill a little bit to get another squirt from the gun in.
Supermotors is down right now or I could show some helpful pics.
Adrianspeeder
Couple tips for ya...
A suction gun makes the job take 10 minutes tops. It looks like a grease gun but just has a hose on the end, and can be found at any parts store for 10 bucks.
Undo the fill plug first so if you strip it you don't screw yourself stranded with an empty transfer case after undoing the drain plug.
I don't know what you have on the new body style trucks, but the older ones have a PITA square drive hole that strips real easy being aluminum, or a allen head. I recommend simple brass pipe plugs you can use a wrench on from home depot.
I fill it as much as possible on the level, then move the truck pointing downhill a little bit to get another squirt from the gun in.
Supermotors is down right now or I could show some helpful pics.
Adrianspeeder
Originally Posted by Adam06FX4
the tranny fliud that is in your tranny right now is synthetic... Mercon V
x2
Hey J is that what the problem is with your t case, just needs a fluid change or are you just HOPING that's what it is
Originally Posted by roushlimited
Hey J is that what the problem is with your t case, just needs a fluid change or are you just HOPING that's what it is

What transfer cases are in the new trucks anyway?
Adrianspeeder
The ESOF transfer case is a Borg-Warner, don't know the model #. I wouldn't use anything other than the mfg. spec. fluid for changes. If you have a warranty why give the dealership an excuse to wiggle out of fixing it if something goes wrong? I.E. "You used an unauthorized aftermarket fluid which caused the failure." If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Go with the spec.
Last edited by kd4crs; Jul 1, 2006 at 05:49 PM.
Originally Posted by Adam06FX4
the tranny fliud that is in your tranny right now is synthetic... Mercon V






