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Garage Door Opener - Installed!

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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #16  
ChrisAdams's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Deeve
I like the idea of having something in the vehicle to open the garage. I am a police officer and we had a lot of garages get broken into by getting into the car parked in the driveway and using the remote stashed in the car. We have been telling people to use the shut off for the opener that some have at the wall switch. ANother idea is to put the opener on a timer so it only gets power during the day or when you are home and awake.

I would like to figure out a way to use an idea like the Homelink, but have it only be powered when the engine is running, or something similar. That would solve the above problem, I think.

Anyone ever done that?

Dave
My Homelink only works when the key is on. I installed it that way. Not for security, my truck is parked IN my garage, behind my power gate, and inside a Rotten Weiler patrolled fence... (My mutt is part rott, all rotten).

I wanted the Homelink on only when the key was on because I didn't want someone playing with the buttons and powering closed the gate or the garage door at an inopportune time.

Works fine that way. Only needs twelve volts, very low current.
I picked it up brand new on e-bay for 20 bucks. Bought another one there recently for 25 bucks, again brand new. They are great if you need two remotes. If I only needed one button I would use the cool method ieee_raider used.
Chris
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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I currently have a Lariat w/ the HomeLink, but I ordered a FX4 that I couldn't get it in.

Your mod gave me an idea. I wonder if you could isolate the button built into that switch and solder a momentary generic switch to the terminals. That way you could put the remote up where you have it for range purposes, but you could run wires down to the switch in a more hidden spot.

I never even thought about thieves breaking into my truck to use my HomeLink. I always park in the driveway and I have about $50k in hand, air, and power tools in my $8k tool box. Oh also, if you don't want to make noise breaking into my truck, just enter my garage w/ the code 4547. I live in Grosse Ile, Michigan @ 1427 Oak Street and will be on vacation all next week.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 12:45 PM
  #18  
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From: Morganville, NJ
Nice mod.. Looks clean
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 01:22 PM
  #19  
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From: North Jersey
Originally Posted by BlueFlareside
I opted out of the Homelink option because I didn't want anyone breaking into my truck and then getting into my garage. i bring in my opener each night.
That's a great idea, but why don't you just put the truck in the garage at night, then you won't have to worry about nothing....

"Things are never so bad that they can't get worse"
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 01:44 PM
  #20  
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From: Reno, TX
Originally Posted by Hestpeis
That's a great idea, but why don't you just put the truck in the garage at night, then you won't have to worry about nothing....

"Things are never so bad that they can't get worse"
If he's as lucky as I am, his truck won't fit.
Mine is about 4 inches too long.
Damn, why didn't I get the SCREW instead of the SCAB!

Back on topic... I would have gotten homelink... where are y'all finding these for $20???
Every time I look, they're like $50+ !!!

Anyway... thanks for the compliments, everyone.

Next step is to put 2 blue LED's up there that shine down towards the cup holders. My buddy's Acura TL has this and it is SLICK.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 03:13 PM
  #21  
howitzer's Avatar
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From: Ossining, New York
Originally Posted by Deeve
I like the idea of having something in the vehicle to open the garage. I am a police officer and we had a lot of garages get broken into by getting into the car parked in the driveway and using the remote stashed in the car. We have been telling people to use the shut off for the opener that some have at the wall switch. ANother idea is to put the opener on a timer so it only gets power during the day or when you are home and awake.

I would like to figure out a way to use an idea like the Homelink, but have it only be powered when the engine is running, or something similar. That would solve the above problem, I think.

Anyone ever done that?

Dave
My '03 A4 Quattro Homelink was disabled with the key off to prevent the mentioned. Anybody have the wiring diagram to isolate the power to the F150 Homelink? I think this is a MUST MOD.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 04:01 PM
  #22  
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Just use any power source. Tap the radio power wire if you want. Then it would work on ACC. They draw almost no power. You could even power them on a tiny 12 volt battery from a remote for a long time. Two wire hook up Ground and Power. Programming 99% of them is easy, but the Homelink site gives detailed instructions.

On e-bay buying them, I got my first one as a 'replacement' circuit for Homelink, that is, all the parts, no case.
My second one was a new one for a Kia Sedona. Nice small case, but if I install it in something I will probably just use the guts.
The vendor sold a lot of those for awhile.

I picked up a used one from a Pick-a-Part but I pulled it out of a Chrysler mini-van and it was just too bulky for my uses. That one was free just put it with some other junk I wanted and they didn't even bother to charge for it.
I suggest you just watch E-bay every day or so for a few weeks. Watch for a buy-it-now on a new one, if you can.
Chris
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #23  
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From: Ossining, New York
I think you miss-understood my request. I have the factory Homelink in my '05 Lariat. I would need the wire color code to isolate it and move it to a switched source at the fuse panel.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by howitzer
I think you miss-understood my request. I have the factory Homelink in my '05 Lariat. I would need the wire color code to isolate it and move it to a switched source at the fuse panel.
I was more responding to the other question, so sorry for any misunderstanding.

Oddly I can not find the universal transmitter (Fords name for it) wiring in my F150 manual.
There is nothing under Homelink, remote, garage, etc. in the diagrams.
The trouble shooting section just refers to how to fix it, not the wiring.


If I was working on it I would pull the visor loose and see what color the wire was, then locate that wire down under the dash and re-route it.
Of course one of the guys with a better service manual could give you the proper color wire. I just have the F-150 CD from Ford. My Mitchell’s manuals stop at 2003.
Sorry.
Chris
 
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