What size is the yellow top you are running. I have a red top and there is hardly any difference at all.

 

I know that the stock batteries don't have much reserve capacity, but I did get lucky with the stock battery on the '94 Explorer--6 years before replacement. However, I did have to change the battery cables when I changed the battery on the Explorer since that battery loved spitting out acid.


Anyway, get yourself a really good battery or two. Since someone mentioned that two Optimas can fit in the stock location, this might let me leave the generator at home when I want to watch TV while tailgating or running power tools where there is no power. Gotta love power inverters.

 

My problem is when I stop at a stop sign or stop light and put the windows up the lights dim. I went with a optima red top and still have the same problem . My stock battery had 650cca and the optima had 720cca. I was a dumba$$ and bought the only red top auto zone had in stock. I thought that maybe if I upped it up a little it would help. I was sadly mistaken and out another $110.00. I was at a 4 wheel parts in indy, and I saw a yellow top that had something like a 1000ca. I guess I will have to go and spend the money on the highest capacity yellow top they make. If you guys know of any part numbers on this please post and help me out.

 

RAM... obviously, the footprint of the Optima is smaller... do you have any problems with movement in the battery tray? I assume the 'battery wedge' thingamabob will pinch it in place?

THANKS!

RP

 

If the lights are dimming with the motor running, it's not comptetely the battery. Actually, the battery is a small part depending on how many accesories you are running and what their cumulative amp draw is. The best thing you can do to fight dimming with the motor on is upgrade the + from the alternator to the battery, and the "big 3" grounds (-) to at least 2 gauge wire. The "big three" grounds are battery to frame, engine block to battery -, and engine block to frame ground strap. Fatter wires flow amperage more efficiently. When the load spikes, you will have headroom to flow more amperage. Voltage is like the pressure of water flowing through a tube, and amperage is like the size of the tube. A fatter pipe with equal pressure (voltage) is flowing more amperage.

Oh, and if pssible, just "piggyback" the new wiring with the stock wiring (meaning leave the stock stuff there, and add in the aftermarket wire) to increase the "pipe size" for free.

 

I've been considering getting one of those Optima yellowtop batteries as well. Some days when its cold out after I get out of work, the truck feels like it is struggling to crank. Since I'm usually the last one to pull out of the lot...there won't be anyone around to give me a jump if I need it.

 

I went autozone and advance auto today. There are several yellow top's that will fit. The book says the D34/78-950 is the one they recommend for our trucks. It has 750 cca and 870 ca. Still not enough for me. They also make a D31T and D31A. The T is a side post and the A is a top post. They both have 900 cca and 1125 ca ALOT BETTER IN MY OPINION. I priced them out for around $175.00-$180.00. Hope this helps out. I will go onto the internet and see what else I can find.

 

Thanks IR... I didn't even realize the AZ had the Optimas on the shelf... Good info!

 

Indiana red from what you descibed, the problem you have is not enough available current ( you are using it faster than your charging system can replenish it). The fix is very simple, add an additional wire from the output of the alternator to the positive side of the battery. that will increase the charging rate by allowing more current to flow to the battery thereby reducing the large voltage drop that occurs under high load conditions. That is assuming that your battery, alternator, and electrical conections are in good condition.

 

we have a slightly different logic with our farm service trucks as well as our dodges

the service trucks are F350, yes I know this is forum is for F150's but I feel this is applicable

since all our 1/2 trucks are Dodges, they are all about to be replaced when we decide what we want to do, we will be buying about 25 trucks for the family, and they will not be Dodges

Any way back to the subject

Ist we put the largest battery possible under the hood of the truck, I might add that the F350's are all 1990 or older and gas burners

We replace the orginal battery with the largest we can find, a couple have Group 8D under the hood, remember these are 1990 or older with room under the hood

Since we use these as service trucks, we have added 2 additional 8D batteries in custom made battery boxes right behind the cab under the flatbed
or in a custom compartment in the utility body on each side that is seperate from the tool area keeps the battery vapor etc out.

We install a motor home battery isolator that allows the vehicle battery to charge, then the isolator allows the auxillary batteries to be charged.
the isolator is rated at 120 amps

we shift isolate all the following to the auxillary battery bar that has a perko marine grade battery selector switch
Light bar with take downs and alternating lights converted to work lights
body mounted work lights
portable 12 volt lights mounted on reels
charger rack for streamlight box lights large rechargeable hand lights
charger rack for portable drills
12 clean water pump
12 volt air compressor a custom made job with a starter motor modified
for continuous use. we also have several Baldor 12 volt motor
specifically designed for continuous use as on a fire dept. brush truck
(aqua duck pump)
jumper cables fore and aft
hitch mounted portable winches as well as fixed rear winches

We have done the folllowing at one time or another as the orginal equipment fails or upgraded to as changes were made
replace orginal alternator with one with minium 130 amp output
replace orginal alternator pulley with a smaller puller, increases alt rpm
heavier duty electrical cables
install stewart warner shunt type ampmeter
jumper cables run fore and aft for power for the jumper cables and
portable winches

The Dodge 1/2 ton have had the same done to them those wth with the 8' beds get additional batteries, not necessarly 8D's but custom mounts. we have a custom made lift so that we can drop the mounts to check the water and clean as necessary

There is another thread here about air horns, all the F350's and most of the Dodges have the 12 volt air compressors with tanks and electric air valves or air horns

this is a little long but what we do works for us

the battery isolator allows us to have a hot truck battery for starting

we are looking to see if we can do the same to the new F150's

 

I have the links for the 3 batteries. Email me if you like and I will send them over to you.
HERE IS THE EMAIL FROM OPTIMA..

The largest YellowTop we offer is the D31 (Avail. with SAE posts or
Threaded posts). However, it may be too large to install under the
hood.
The recommended YellowTop is the D34 for your F-150.

See spec sheets.

(See attached file: D34.pdf)(See attached file: D31A.pdf)(See attached
file: D31T.pdf)

Please feel free to contact customer service at the number below if you
have any other questions. Thank you for your interest and support of
Optima
Batteries.

Erica
Optima Batteries
Customer Service
1.800.292.4359



nascargrant@yahoo
.com To:
questions@optimabatteries.com
cc:
01/07/2006 11:24 Subject: 05 f-150
PM







I have a 05 f-150 with a 5.4 V8. I want the
highest
capacity yellow top battery that you make. I am only seeing like a 850
ca
battery. Im sure I am not looking in the right places. If you could
please
send me a link of the highest capacity yellow top you make. Thanks
again,
Grant

 

How much cost the RED OPTIMA?