sacramentojoe, That's the best offer I've had all year.

I loved it up there, the finest times in my life was walking dry rice fields, with an 16 gauge model 97. Or sitting on the bank, with a pole, and a good book.

Oh well, I know it's almost all city, now. Except Rio Linda hasn't changed very much. Last time I was under the arch the people still made me think of Grapes of Wrath.
Mind you, some of the best folks in the world, but somehow out of a different time.

Have a great one
Chris

 

yeah , those people in Rio LInda must be oblivious to the world around them. Some of them are still running on propane instead of regular gas. Kills me. However, that is probably the only part of Sac that you can still buy land at. Not that you'd want to.

 

You continue to take shots at Troyer. Why don't you open your own performance shop and see if you can be as sucessful at it as they are??? I don't see you posting in the chips/programming section where Troyer will actually see some of the stuff you come up with. If you don't want to buy from them, then DON'T, but it would be nice if you would quit talking trash about someone that foots part of the bill for f150online!

 

Do you know where you are? This is F150online...

 

Why would you bolt them together?

 

Yah! My question too! Why would I bolt them together? Maybe you can explain that question a bit better.

 

Does anyone know the proper torgue value when installing the pulleys? I had underdrives put on on 05 Mustang and no torque values were published.

 

Honestly, I've never torqued a pulley bolt to spec in the past 6 or 7 years I've been tinkering with cars. Some of them are pretty picky, like the 6.0 liter Powerstroke diesel, but for anything else, I run it down with an impact gun until it stops, bump it a couple more times and let it ride.

 

Here the shop manual's version for the 2004 F-150 5.4L.

"Using a new crankshaft pully bolt, install the crankshaft pully bolt and washer. Using the special tool to hold the crankshaft pully (strap wrench) tighten the bolt in four stages:

Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).

Stage 2 : Loosen the bolt one full turn.

Stage 3 : Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).

Stage 4 : Tighten the bolt an additional 90 degrees without exceeding 200 Nm (148 lb-ft). "

That is exactically how I did it when I replaced my stock pullys with the underdrive set.

 

Did you know all those pulleys fit f150's? Because you know this is F150online...

As far as bolting them together it is just extra insurance keeping the stock harmonic balancer, where as most kits dont have a built in balancer.

 

Wow, that bolt was a bugger! Impact wrench didn't work ... so I went and got another HD one ... it didn't work either. After 2 people doin serious grunt with a strap wrench and a makeshift extension on the breaker bar with a floor jack handle it finally gave in.

Sort of freaked me out grinding off that much metal too! Went through several grinding tips. My air grinder gave up the ghost after a few minutes, the dremal was too small for the job but a roto-zip type spinner finished it off finally. It was a bit more metal removal than I expected.

A large 3 prong puller wouldn't work ... and I discovered that I had a real harmonic balancer puller, new but missing 1 of the needed bolts ... though it was ever so slightly too small in diameter it was made to work just fine!

Quite the adventure last night! ... Now I get to work on the eFans for the next night or so.

 

I agree gettin the bolt out was a real chore. I too gave up on the impact wrench. Had to do the same as you with my breaker bar with a pipe extension on the handle. Where did you get your strap wrench? I could not find one big enough so I made up my own.

You should have done it after you did the e-fans. But if your doing it all at once then you will have all the room you need and your e-fans can go on last. Be ready for some cuts and scrapes on your arms and fingers.

And by the way, I see where your coming from on bolting the original pully along with the new one but no need to bolt on the original pully as the Troyer version crank pully has its own balancer.

 

Got the strap wrench at Harbor Freight ... but it too needed some modifications to work on that big pulley. Tried several auto places and no good one to be found ... order only...

BTW it's done and all works just fine!!!

 

i hate for wrong information to be given so i would like to clear the air. The way underdrive pulley's work is like this. The smaller the crank pulley, the slower the accessories turn. The larger the accessory pulley, the slower the accessories turn. It is just like a 10 speed bike, the front sprocket is the crank pulley and the back sprocket is the accessories. Most underdrive kits come as a 2 or 3 piece set, with a a smaller crank pulley and larger accessory pulleys. the larger accessory pulleys DO NOT SPEED THE ACCESSORY PULLEYS BACK UP TO STOCK, actually it is the exact opposite. You will notice some manufacturers such as March make certain kits that are more friendly to big stereo systems and such. These kits contain smaller accessory pulley's to speed the accessory back up. Some people just simply leave their stock accessory pulley on. On my 91 Mustang this was the case when i had the stock alternator. I couldn't run my entire 3 piece set because it simply turned to slow, so i had to keep the stock pulley on till i upgraded the alternator to a 130 amp. hope this helps to clear some confusion and the wrong information posted.

Brian

 

Yandell - go to the Steeda web site or call them and they will tell you what the torque values are for the '05 Mustang.....the big difference between the '05 and previous year model Mustang's is the tightening sequence - the procedure is the same as posted for the F-150 above - torque to 65lbs, then back off 1 turn then retorque to specified torque.....IIRC for my '05 GT is was 125 lbs torque - but please double check me on that as I don't have the Steeda instructions handy right now.