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Hey everyone! I just got a new (to me) 2001 F-150 XL 4x4. I'm coming over from the import world and trying to learn about what would make a fun offroad trail/mud truck! I do know what a search button is and I have been lingering around for about a week before making my first post.
I'll try and answer some of the questions up front,
"What's your budget?" - $2,000 - $4,000
"What do you want to do with the truck?" - Strictly fun (does not need to be a daily). Ride some trails and drive through the mud (low level stuff)
"What do you know about this stuff?" - Honestly, not much. I'm coming from the import/street/autocross/drag world (still very much in it).
"What have you come up with so far?" - 33x12.5x16 tires 10 ply, 16x10 wheels. Not sure if a lift is needed, or if I should just jump up to 35" tires...
I'm worried that there will have to be too many supporting mods in order to jump to 35" tires (i.e. lift, gears, axles etc....)
I'm here for fun, learning and sharing!
Here's my beast! 180k on the clock and still runs fantastic!!!
02 f150 4x4 34" with 4.56 gears 2" body lift cranked T-bars with 2" blocks in rear. Thats mine.
Big tires = death on brakes
more than 33" definitely want gears
Is it a 5.4 or 4.6?
do the GOTTS mod for the air filter!!!
if it's a 5.4 DO NOT WASH THE ENGINE....EVER!!!! you will get water in the plug boots and run like chit
Big tires = death on brakes - Is there an upgrade brake kit that you recommend? more than 33" definitely want gears - Is that front gears, rear gears or both? Is it a DIY-able task? Is it a 5.4 or 4.6? - I have the 5.4 do the GOTTS mod for the air filter!!! - I will have to google that! Thanks for the tip! if it's a 5.4 DO NOT WASH THE ENGINE....EVER!!!! you will get water in the plug boots and run like chit - NOTED!!! Thank you!
So what size tires should I go with if I am to stay with the OEM wheel? From my research I believe it is a 7" wide wheel, no?
I was looking at some cheap eBay tires *Crosswind MT 10 Ply TIRES 285 75 R16 75R 285 MUD 33x11.50*-here
I would get a quick Maaco repaint. Nothing expensive since it is your "fun" truck.
I was actually thinking about just going to English Color and getting some color match spray paint.
Scuff/feather it out, hit it with some etching primer, lay down a generous coat or 3 and call it good!
Both front and rear gears need to be replaced if changing ratios. It's not a job for amateurs. $1500 to $2000 for both. What is the axle code on the door jam sticker? That code will tell you what the ratio is and whether it has a traction lock rear. There is a tag on the rear axle cover that will tell you too. There is a big brake kit available for the front but it is expensive and may not work with stock wheels. My stock wheels are 7 1/2" wide 17" in diameter and the largest tire recommended for that rim is 285/70x17 which is what I have on it. The door tag should tell you rim size also.
Both front and rear gears need to be replaced if changing ratios. It's not a job for amateurs. $1500 to $2000 for both. What is the axle code on the door jam sticker? That code will tell you what the ratio is and whether it has a traction lock rear. There is a tag on the rear axle cover that will tell you too. There is a big brake kit available for the front but it is expensive and may not work with stock wheels. My stock wheels are 7 1/2" wide 17" in diameter and the largest tire recommended for that rim is 285/70x17 which is what I have on it. The door tag should tell you rim size also.
Thank you! I'll have a look when I get back to the house after work.
So new wheels would be a MUST if I want larger tires then? What width do you recommend? I found some 8" wide wheels, would those be wide enough?
Along with changing gears, is there any other supporting mods needed for "beefing-up" for longevity of having fun?
drilled and vented rotors and ceramic pads have proven to be very good for me. Fairly cheap to.
with 180k on the clock...might start with checking the front end components as the ball joints are probably dead.
A gear swap is really straight forward...no special vodoo there..BUT...everybody is different. I know folks that have raced cars (drag,autocross...) for 20 yrs and barely able to replace a clutch.? If you have available support...I believe anybody can do it. My 12 yr old set-up my front diff (with my guidance of course) . Made my 9 yr old (then) help me build my tranny .. he didn't like it...but HE assembled most of it (again with guidance and explanations)
I'm running the COOPER AT3's 315/70/17 =34" on the 7 1/2 rims...(3rd set....must adjust tire pressure down to around 28 or you run out the center of the tire...go about 50k miles)..Yes they rub the frame at full turn....but only at full lock. with NO lift 285 would be about it. If you are looking for wheels...backspacing is critical as you move the wheel OUT....you must move the TRUCK UP!
also check the heater hose connections by the firewall...known to leak...THEN it drips down on...you guessed it....right on top of the sparkplug boot (which sits inside a hole .. For starters I would recommend cleaning the engine and replacing the plugs (they have probably NEVER been done) then buy a big tube of dielectric grease to put a bead around the plug boot lip to seal it up upon reassembly....then NEVER WASH IT AGAIN...lol
that should give you something to do this weekend....lol
If your diff is a posi trac....replace fluid with 75w-140 ...recommended to prevent "clutch bite"
05-08-2019, 10:00 AM
If you have available support...I believe anybody can do it. My 12 yr old set-up my front diff (with my guidance of course) . Made my 9 yr old (then) help me build my tranny .. he didn't like it...but HE assembled most of it (again with guidance and explanations)
