P1151
#1
P1151
So I have a code for, P1151- on a 97 F-150 4.6 5spd..
I have replaced everything it could be. I'm still getting the code. I hooked up multimeter and tested wires coming from engine harness to Bank 2 Sensor 1, all are getting a good reading except my Yellow and Light Blue wire that is my heater ground?,. It's showing 0.02 volts. If I'm correct it should be about 12 volts????? Or am I totally not getting this right. I've checked wires leading to PCM and have found no issues. I'm wondering if the PCM is bad if is was bad, wouldn't the truck run funny . I have no issues other than Check Engine light is on. It doesn't run funny or have any other issues .
I have replaced everything it could be. I'm still getting the code. I hooked up multimeter and tested wires coming from engine harness to Bank 2 Sensor 1, all are getting a good reading except my Yellow and Light Blue wire that is my heater ground?,. It's showing 0.02 volts. If I'm correct it should be about 12 volts????? Or am I totally not getting this right. I've checked wires leading to PCM and have found no issues. I'm wondering if the PCM is bad if is was bad, wouldn't the truck run funny . I have no issues other than Check Engine light is on. It doesn't run funny or have any other issues .
#2
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
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I have replaced everything it could be.
Bank 2 Sensor 1
Yellow and Light Blue wire that is my heater ground?
Or am I totally not getting this right.
#4
I doubt it, but list "everything that it could be" that you replaced. Include the make and part number of the O2 sensor(s).
Which specific sensor are you identifying as B2S1?
You have to use the colors of the wires on the vehicle side of the sensor since different mfrs use different colors on the sensor side of the connector.
Hmmm....
Which specific sensor are you identifying as B2S1?
You have to use the colors of the wires on the vehicle side of the sensor since different mfrs use different colors on the sensor side of the connector.
Hmmm....
#5
Heater element voltage should be 12 volts +/- some tenths.
This is needed full time for at 'least' two reasons.
1. To get cold start into loop action fuel control much sooner.
2. To allow the sensor to stay in it's heated operating range as the engine load and RPM changes during the drive cycle.
If the heater is missing or low in heat, the Ox sensor cannot respond with the speed sensitivity it needs to with response to Oxygen content in the Exhaust gas from cylinder to cylinder. The response time has to be quite fast.
Add to this, a buildup of soot, and other by products of combustion over time and sensitivity goes down.
Be a good boy and look at the action with a Scanner and not try to guess, spend un-necessary money and effort trying to get lucky.
At least compare the action to the other side.
This is why Scanners are used to help diagnose beyond the code set, point.
Good luck.
This is needed full time for at 'least' two reasons.
1. To get cold start into loop action fuel control much sooner.
2. To allow the sensor to stay in it's heated operating range as the engine load and RPM changes during the drive cycle.
If the heater is missing or low in heat, the Ox sensor cannot respond with the speed sensitivity it needs to with response to Oxygen content in the Exhaust gas from cylinder to cylinder. The response time has to be quite fast.
Add to this, a buildup of soot, and other by products of combustion over time and sensitivity goes down.
Be a good boy and look at the action with a Scanner and not try to guess, spend un-necessary money and effort trying to get lucky.
At least compare the action to the other side.
This is why Scanners are used to help diagnose beyond the code set, point.
Good luck.
Last edited by Bluegrass; 01-21-2019 at 07:18 PM.
#7
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#9
#11
Heater pair is RED, …... Yel / Lt Blue.
Sensor pair is Grey / Red,..... Red / Black.
Use voltmeter to test Heater pair from PCM for 12 volts with key On to be sure.
Test Heater in sensor with ohm meter to be sure it's not open or shorted.
.
Do NOT try to test the ..(sensor half)…. with an ohm meter function or voltmeter function.
After work is complete, look at the sensor action with a Scanner and compare with the other bank.
The rear sensors both sides do not work the same as the fronts but should be relatively stable in output with only small movement.
If either tend to follow the fronts, the cats are nearing end of life.
Sensor pair is Grey / Red,..... Red / Black.
Use voltmeter to test Heater pair from PCM for 12 volts with key On to be sure.
Test Heater in sensor with ohm meter to be sure it's not open or shorted.
.
Do NOT try to test the ..(sensor half)…. with an ohm meter function or voltmeter function.
After work is complete, look at the sensor action with a Scanner and compare with the other bank.
The rear sensors both sides do not work the same as the fronts but should be relatively stable in output with only small movement.
If either tend to follow the fronts, the cats are nearing end of life.
#12
#13
BLUEGRASS I fixed it and thank you for your input .SHO your constructive criticism doesn't help anyone, what else would I be replacing it with???
Another pigtail!!!!!
Since I can only get a universal pigtail, the colors of those wires are different then the engine harness colors.
Another pigtail!!!!!
Since I can only get a universal pigtail, the colors of those wires are different then the engine harness colors.
#14
SHO was asking what the brand and part number was for the new SENSOR you installed. There are many different ones, all supposedly compatible. Example:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132