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-   -   Hyperflash LED turnsignals (https://www.f150online.com/forums/1997-2003-f-150/518360-hyperflash-led-turnsignals.html)

jimbo74 06-08-2018 09:30 AM
Hyperflash LED turnsignals
 
So, I want to get rid of my Hyperflash with my turn signals. I haven't replaced the rear lights yet with LEDs but I plan to soon.

I did buy a relay that was supposed to fix the hyperflash issue, and it didn't work. not sure if it was a bad relay or my system just doesn't like it. When the car was in the run position, the relay worked fine, and light flash speed was normal. BUT when the car was running, the relay just buzzed, and no lights displayed at all, no indicators on my dash, no signals, and no hazard lights.

I think I just need to wire in some resistors to my turn signals. Do I need to do it to each bulb, in the harness? or will the front's be fine? What wattage or ohm rating do I need to use? I really can't find much online, other than people saying the resistor they got was really hot, and/or didn't work

Bluegrass 06-18-2018 03:25 PM
Since 2 week has gone by without a reply, here is what you need to know.
The stock lamps are 'incandescent' lamps with a Tungsten filament.
When voltage s applied initially, the current is much higher then drops as the filament resistance rises to full heat.
They take a certain amount of current 'total' combined front and rear.

The stock flasher is designed to work with this amount of current so it operates correctly within the proper flash rate .
You come along with LED lamps that draw 1/10 the current and wonder why the system does not work!

It stops working with only one lamp blown. I just had this happen.
Placing resistors across the lamp leads bypasses most of the current to replace the normal flow so the flasher sees the proper conditions.
All this just to get LED lights.
The stock incandescent lamps draw in the order of 3 amps plus or minus.
Lets do a calculation.....example..... for resistance and power dissipation. Actual currents may be a bit different.
Voltage = 14, current = 2x3 amps = 6 amps total.
Resistance = voltage divided by current.
14/6 = 2.33 ohms total resistance of two in parallel.
Power dissipated in the total will be voltage x current = 14 x 6 amps = 84 watts.

If two resistors are used each side, the power divides by 2= 41 watts each.
This is why the resistors get hot. It's quite a lot of heat and power lost just to have LED lights.
And you thought it was simple?
You have to alter the system and understand what you need to do.
Sometimes a flasher for LED use 'might' be the answer if it does not mess up other functions.
Good luck.;)

jimbo74 06-18-2018 03:35 PM
Just to update this, I installed a 20 watt resistor on each side, and the hyperflash is gone

hopefully it doesn't catch my car on fire

01 gt f150 06-21-2018 01:28 AM
They sell load resistors or flasher relays for LED turns

jimbo74 06-21-2018 06:00 AM
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...7175ba6379.jpg
Originally Posted by 01 gt f150 (Post 5237103)
They sell load resistors or flasher relays for LED turns
I know, I installed a flasher module that was supposed to fix the hyperflash, it didn't work. I then installed a 20w resistor on each side, and it works. Hyperflash is gone.

This is what went in

Michael Sutton 07-10-2018 11:12 PM
Originally Posted by jimbo74 (Post 5236546)
So, I want to get rid of my Hyperflash with my turn signals. I haven't replaced the rear lights yet with LEDs but I plan to soon.

I did buy a relay that was supposed to fix the hyperflash issue, and it didn't work. not sure if it was a bad relay or my system just doesn't like it. When the car was in the run position, the relay worked fine, and light flash speed was normal. BUT when the car was running, the relay just buzzed, and no lights displayed at all, no indicators on my dash, no signals, and no hazard lights.

I think I just need to wire in some resistors to my turn signals. Do I need to do it to each bulb, in the harness? or will the front's be fine? What wattage or ohm rating do I need to use? I really can't find much online, other than people saying the resistor they got was really hot, and/or didn't work
AUTOZONE has a variable input flasher relay that will take care of the problem. The product number is EP27. It is on the isle with the light bulbs. I just put it into my truck and it took care of everything. You want to swap the blue relay. There is a black one right beside it. That way you don’t have to splice any wires. The relay is located on the right hand side of the driver side. You’ll need to drop the kick panel to get to it. There is a black cover on top. It’s fairly easy to remove. Just keep the black relay and the blue relay oriented it the direction they came out, due to your inability to see the direction of the pins. The blue relay is the second one in. You’ll have to remove the black relay first to get to it. There you go. A lot easier and safer than resistors.

Michael Sutton 07-10-2018 11:13 PM
Originally Posted by Michael Sutton (Post 5237952)


AUTOZONE has a variable input flasher relay that will take care of the problem. The product number is EP27. It is on the isle with the light bulbs. I just put it into my truck and it took care of everything. You want to swap the blue relay. There is a black one right beside it. That way you don’t have to splice any wires. The relay is located on the right hand side of the driver side. You’ll need to drop the kick panel to get to it. There is a black cover on top. It’s fairly easy to remove. Just keep the black relay and the blue relay oriented it the direction they came out, due to your inability to see the direction of the pins. The blue relay is the second one in. You’ll have to remove the black relay first to get to it. There you go. A lot easier and safer than resistors.
there are plenty of pictures online but not much in the way of YouTube.

Michael Sutton 07-10-2018 11:16 PM
Originally Posted by jimbo74 (Post 5237105)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...7175ba6379.jpg


I know, I installed a flasher module that was supposed to fix the hyperflash, it didn't work. I then installed a 20w resistor on each side, and it works. Hyperflash is gone.

This is what went in
the EP27 is designed for LED’s. Unless you tried that flasher relay, the others won’t work. This one worked like a charm.

Michael Sutton 07-10-2018 11:20 PM
Originally Posted by Michael Sutton (Post 5237954)


the EP27 is designed for LED’s. Unless you tried that flasher relay, the others won’t work. This one worked like a charm.
there are also 2 flasher relays in there one is for the hazards and the other is for everything else. The one to change is the blue one. They both have the same pin orientation, so the EP27 will go in the hazard relay spot. That’s the wrong one. It’s the blue one or if it already had the relay changed due to defect, it’s the inner most. You pull the first relay and replace the second one.

OhioLariat 07-23-2018 11:32 PM
Originally Posted by Michael Sutton (Post 5237955)
there are also 2 flasher relays in there one is for the hazards and the other is for everything else. The one to change is the blue one. They both have the same pin orientation, so the EP27 will go in the hazard relay spot. That’s the wrong one. It’s the blue one or if it already had the relay changed due to defect, it’s the inner most. You pull the first relay and replace the second one.
Where did you get this idea?


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