Still working on it.

I picked up a loaner pressure gage/tester from AutoZone ($150).
It was missing the small Shrader valve adaptor. Went back. They checked two other kits and they had the small 1/8" adaptors.

Key-on; You can hear the pump run for about 3 seconds.

I checked the key-on pressure... 0 psi. When manualy vented, there is barely a dribble of gas.
But the truck starts now. Revs up real nice. No problem.
But when running, the pressure goes up very, very slowly to 30psi. It takes about 12 seconds to reach 30psi.
Shut the truck off, pop the Shrader; get a slightly bigger dribble.

I ran it back up to 30 psi, shut it down, and checked it a couple hours later. It was still holding pressure.

Tomorrow, change the fuel filter and recheck pressure/flow.

 

the 3 sec with the Key on, engine off....is normal
the pressure should rise pretty quickly...not slow! not 12 sec

hopefully the pressure response comes back with the new fuel filter.
post your findings....
Merry Christmas

 

Well, my issue was the fuel filter!
I couldn't believe it, but the pressure gage does not lie.
After changing the filter, the key-on fuel pressure jumps to 38psi in less than a second.
The running pressure is about 32-35psi.
When you relieve the pressure, there is a strong stream of fuel.

Here's some pictures of the loaner $150 pressure tester kit from AutoZone. Make sure you get the Ford adaptor with the kit.



Here is the gage connection on the passenger side, top of engine:






And here is the fuel filter, spring tool, and location under the frame. The time to actually swap the filters is less than 5 minutes with the right tool. No other tools needed.






Thanks to everyone for their help. I'm off for a test drive and return the loaner gage to Autozone.

 

Today my truck stalled while going down the highway about 55 miles an hour, truck died, gauges all stopped working and odometer read ------ and theft light was blinking. The alternator has been replaced and some of the relays in the fuse box under the hood have been replaced, but I have some relays and fuses that are missing when they need to be there, and some that appear to be broken. We are guessing this is a relay issue, or connection issue, this truck has horrible wiring issues all around anyway and has been a mess. Does anyone have any link or photos of wiring diagrams for these trucks? Mines a 2003 ford f 150 xlt with the v8 triton.

 

Your specific symptom is most commonly caused by a loss of power to the PCM. Replace the PCM Power Relay and see if that does the trick.

 

MY F-150 2011 completely shut down at 75 mph, all electrical went completely dead, except for cig. lighter that was running my GPS. Truck completely disconnected from electrical system. Tried turning on everything but nothing worked except the cigarette lighter and my GPS. Battery was still full charge tow truck driver used is booster battery but it did nothing. Truck was in park, and with out electrical you cant get it out of park so he had to drag it on to the tow truck. Waiting for service dept. for response to problem. jb

 

Please start your own new thread in the proper area for your truck instead of hijacking an old thread for a different version.

 

I believe we are having the same problem. What does "the op had a connection problem" What does op stand for? What do I tell ford to have the problem fixed. Thanks

 

OP= original poster.

 

This OLD thread is so full of fail and derail, it should be deleted.