Sas
#16
10-13-2010, 01:18 AM
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#17
10-13-2010, 01:20 AM
To the op i personally would shoot for enough SUSPENSION lift to clear 37's. You are going to run into some clearance issues with the crossover steering, You could run full hydo but thats expensive and normally not street legal.
Look HARD at Klitch's setup his is basically the lowest you will want to go without having to do alot of clearancing undernieth.
As far as cheap IDK my first setup was 4k and this setup is already over 6k and thats with me doing the work, but mines also on semi-built 1 tons and 44's.
Now its going up on 2.5 tons and a bigger motor. Gonna keep it on 44-47's dont want it any taller than it is now, 8.5' to the roof.
Look HARD at Klitch's setup his is basically the lowest you will want to go without having to do alot of clearancing undernieth.
As far as cheap IDK my first setup was 4k and this setup is already over 6k and thats with me doing the work, but mines also on semi-built 1 tons and 44's.
Now its going up on 2.5 tons and a bigger motor. Gonna keep it on 44-47's dont want it any taller than it is now, 8.5' to the roof.
just like dads 00 psd.my truck will clear 37's, I just had to trim a little bit, and have more to trim on the front inner fender area.
I spent total of about $4500-5000 to buy axles, clean up, and supply necessary suspension/steering components.
#18
10-13-2010, 09:38 AM
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Well, I've got the truck at a friends shop now getting detailed and undercoated. There seriously isn't a single once of rust on the truck. It's gorgeous. I plan on painting it some sort of ridiculous color but for now, I'm more worried about getting this done.
So, decided that the divorced T-Case will be a good idea and a lot easier to acomplish. A friend of mine owns a company that makes and cuts driveshafts, mid shafts, cvs and that crap so rather then have to pair a mid to my t case. All I have to do is take my driveshaft and T-Case to them and they'll make **** work. I'd like to hear some pros and cons of a DT though. Cause a lot of people say it's "fun" and I'm just curious as to why. Maybe I already know but, either way I'd appreciate it.
Once I get the truck back I'm tearing down the front. I've done something like this before but it was with a yota. It wobbled a little but with the right measurements, and a little patience I should be fine.
Klitch, 4.2, you guys are champs. I read Klitches build from start to finish. That's awesome, and almost 99.9% Identical to what I'm doing. If you wouldn't mind emailing me ALL your pictures haha. (I saved everything from your posts so far) That's about the height I'm going to stick with. Then Shackle lift it a little higher in the summer. But you're right, I will be minimized at that height there to meet clearence specs. But that's fine, I'd rather have the ride height of the F250 anyways. The only real cost I'm going to have will be wheels and tires and shocks. Everything else I've either already got, or a friend will be fabbed. But both trucks are fuggin sick.
Oh a side note, I only plan on running 37's through the winter, once spring rolls around, I'll be going stupid big and running 44's probably. Again, any suggestions and help is GREATLY appreciated.
So, decided that the divorced T-Case will be a good idea and a lot easier to acomplish. A friend of mine owns a company that makes and cuts driveshafts, mid shafts, cvs and that crap so rather then have to pair a mid to my t case. All I have to do is take my driveshaft and T-Case to them and they'll make **** work. I'd like to hear some pros and cons of a DT though. Cause a lot of people say it's "fun" and I'm just curious as to why. Maybe I already know but, either way I'd appreciate it.
Once I get the truck back I'm tearing down the front. I've done something like this before but it was with a yota. It wobbled a little but with the right measurements, and a little patience I should be fine.
Klitch, 4.2, you guys are champs. I read Klitches build from start to finish. That's awesome, and almost 99.9% Identical to what I'm doing. If you wouldn't mind emailing me ALL your pictures haha. (I saved everything from your posts so far) That's about the height I'm going to stick with. Then Shackle lift it a little higher in the summer. But you're right, I will be minimized at that height there to meet clearence specs. But that's fine, I'd rather have the ride height of the F250 anyways. The only real cost I'm going to have will be wheels and tires and shocks. Everything else I've either already got, or a friend will be fabbed. But both trucks are fuggin sick.
Oh a side note, I only plan on running 37's through the winter, once spring rolls around, I'll be going stupid big and running 44's probably. Again, any suggestions and help is GREATLY appreciated.
#19
10-13-2010, 10:24 AM
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Well, I've got the truck at a friends shop now getting detailed and undercoated. There seriously isn't a single once of rust on the truck. It's gorgeous. I plan on painting it some sort of ridiculous color but for now, I'm more worried about getting this done.
So, decided that the divorced T-Case will be a good idea and a lot easier to acomplish. A friend of mine owns a company that makes and cuts driveshafts, mid shafts, cvs and that crap so rather then have to pair a mid to my t case. All I have to do is take my driveshaft and T-Case to them and they'll make **** work. I'd like to hear some pros and cons of a DT though. Cause a lot of people say it's "fun" and I'm just curious as to why. Maybe I already know but, either way I'd appreciate it.
Once I get the truck back I'm tearing down the front. I've done something like this before but it was with a yota. It wobbled a little but with the right measurements, and a little patience I should be fine.
Klitch, 4.2, you guys are champs. I read Klitches build from start to finish. That's awesome, and almost 99.9% Identical to what I'm doing. If you wouldn't mind emailing me ALL your pictures haha. (I saved everything from your posts so far) That's about the height I'm going to stick with. Then Shackle lift it a little higher in the summer. But you're right, I will be minimized at that height there to meet clearence specs. But that's fine, I'd rather have the ride height of the F250 anyways. The only real cost I'm going to have will be wheels and tires and shocks. Everything else I've either already got, or a friend will be fabbed. But both trucks are fuggin sick.
Oh a side note, I only plan on running 37's through the winter, once spring rolls around, I'll be going stupid big and running 44's probably. Again, any suggestions and help is GREATLY appreciated.
So, decided that the divorced T-Case will be a good idea and a lot easier to acomplish. A friend of mine owns a company that makes and cuts driveshafts, mid shafts, cvs and that crap so rather then have to pair a mid to my t case. All I have to do is take my driveshaft and T-Case to them and they'll make **** work. I'd like to hear some pros and cons of a DT though. Cause a lot of people say it's "fun" and I'm just curious as to why. Maybe I already know but, either way I'd appreciate it.
Once I get the truck back I'm tearing down the front. I've done something like this before but it was with a yota. It wobbled a little but with the right measurements, and a little patience I should be fine.
Klitch, 4.2, you guys are champs. I read Klitches build from start to finish. That's awesome, and almost 99.9% Identical to what I'm doing. If you wouldn't mind emailing me ALL your pictures haha. (I saved everything from your posts so far) That's about the height I'm going to stick with. Then Shackle lift it a little higher in the summer. But you're right, I will be minimized at that height there to meet clearence specs. But that's fine, I'd rather have the ride height of the F250 anyways. The only real cost I'm going to have will be wheels and tires and shocks. Everything else I've either already got, or a friend will be fabbed. But both trucks are fuggin sick.
Oh a side note, I only plan on running 37's through the winter, once spring rolls around, I'll be going stupid big and running 44's probably. Again, any suggestions and help is GREATLY appreciated.
Another recommendation is to stick with 2.5" wide springs. F250's and F350's use 3" wide front springs and they are STIFF STIFF STIFF. Im running 10" Super lift Swamper runner springs in the front plus a 6.5" crossmember and 3" body lift. 19.5" of lift clears 49's decently.
#21
10-13-2010, 01:39 PM
#22
10-13-2010, 02:44 PM
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You could keep the leaf springs you have and run blocks but that looks crappy imo
#23
10-13-2010, 03:12 PM
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If you've got blueprints I'll take em! The leafs I have should make mine lift fine. I could go higher with blocks but I just really don't want to. I've always been worried about block lifts. Klitch, what about just sending pictures about the important stuff. Anything you may of had to fab, or any sticky situations you may have gotten in. And can you send me a quick picture of how you connected your steering to everything? I'd REALLY appreciate it!
#24
10-13-2010, 03:19 PM
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The mounting point will vary depending on motor/transmission so im not really sure where would be a good spot for you but try to keep it straight in line with the transmission as possible.
You could keep the leaf springs you have and run blocks but that looks crappy imo
You could keep the leaf springs you have and run blocks but that looks crappy imo
#25
10-13-2010, 05:31 PM
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It does look crappy haha, I just posted that a second ago actually. I'll probably go with better springs to start with. Worst case scenario, I'll fab new hangers for the rear. Curious, what did you use for rear springs? Your stockers? I think I may have missed that in the 14 pages of threads haha
(you can get a good deal on rear leaf springs at competition leaf spring) look them up and call them they normally give better prices on the phone. Tell them the measurements you are looking for and see what they can do.
well i cant send you a PM but anyways go to this site fordtruckclub.net im a moderator over there you can find build pages of me and klitchs builds there. Ill be up dating mine soon.
#26
10-13-2010, 11:04 PM
#27
10-13-2010, 11:06 PM
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#28
10-14-2010, 01:45 PM
If you've got blueprints I'll take em! The leafs I have should make mine lift fine. I could go higher with blocks but I just really don't want to. I've always been worried about block lifts. Klitch, what about just sending pictures about the important stuff. Anything you may of had to fab, or any sticky situations you may have gotten in. And can you send me a quick picture of how you connected your steering to everything? I'd REALLY appreciate it!
http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/g...c=2792&userid=
#29
10-15-2010, 11:58 AM
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So, CHANGE OF PLANS! I was just given a set of Dana 44's off a chevy 3/4t. NO shock mounts. So, I might go with 4.2's setup and say screw the shocks for now. I'll add them and the mounts when I get a little more time and money. Plus, I'm not POSITIVE, but I'm pretty sure that this front end has the same pit arm I'd need to straight connect the steering up. Which would be wonderful. So, let me know what yall think. Pictures of the stock truck to come. I'm excited haha.
#30
10-15-2010, 02:08 PM
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So, CHANGE OF PLANS! I was just given a set of Dana 44's off a chevy 3/4t. NO shock mounts. So, I might go with 4.2's setup and say screw the shocks for now. I'll add them and the mounts when I get a little more time and money. Plus, I'm not POSITIVE, but I'm pretty sure that this front end has the same pit arm I'd need to straight connect the steering up. Which would be wonderful. So, let me know what yall think. Pictures of the stock truck to come. I'm excited haha.
