1997 - 2003 F-150

New Member, New Owner, lotsa questions

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Old 02-23-2009, 11:33 AM
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New Member, New Owner, lotsa questions

Greetings, everyone - new member here from Charles Town, WV.

Let me preface by saying I'm not much of a wrench. I change my own oil in my vehicles and other light service, but that's about my limit. I want to learn more though, which is one of the reason I just bought my truck. I also wanted another truck (went from a bare bones Isuzu 4x4 to a 4x4 Dakota, then gas became an issue with my 70+ mile commute and went for an econo-box). Last week I had a wild hair and bid on an online auction and was the successful bidder. Here's what I ended up with:
2001 XLT 4x4, long bed, regular cab, 4.6L, 3.55 gears, heavy duty package. It has 44K miles and is, I believe in great overall shape. Much better shape than I had feared, so I'm generally very happy. However, I know nothing about its maintenance background. So, now for the first round of questions:

1- The manual and oil filler cap show 5W-20 Oil is called for. From a sticker in the window, I can tell that it was serviced with 10w-30. Should I switch to 5W-20?

2 - I've had very good results in my econo-yaris and Honda Goldwing using full synthetic oil, but I switched them from the second change from new. I've heard there can be problems when switching to full synthetic after several 1000's of miles. True? Should I stick with regular oil or is there a recommended process to change over to syn?

3 - Should I go ahead and have any other fluids changed? If so, which ones?

4 - Are there any known problems I should check for (or have my mechanic check for)?

5 - Powerwashing and a lot of elbow grease took care of years of built up dirt on the exterior and interior (vinyl floor, no carpets), but the engine bay is filthy. The manual suggests covering parts of the engine with plastic before washing, but EVERYTHING is coated with dirt. What's the best way to get everything in there cleaned without causing damage?

I won't be using this as a daily driver, but will now and then so it doesn't sit too long. It'll mainly be a hunting, camping, hauling/honey-doing truck. I don't want to do a lot of customization changes to it (yet), other than add nerf bars, hood and window deflectors. MAYBE a bull bar, and eventually black wheels (the truck is white) and more off-road capable tires (whatever will fit without having to level or lift it - again, YET).

There is a slight bit of rust in the bed, but I plan to have it Line-X'd.

Thanks for any and all answers and suggestions!
 
  #2  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:43 AM
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Welcome to the site! Sounds like a great first truck. One thing I would suggest, fill out the truck info on your profile. That way, members can see what you have when you ask a question. Ether that or put the info in a signature.

Make sure the sparkplugs are torqued down, that engine is prone to spit them out as there are minimal threads in the heads. On the oil, it should have had the 5-20, but I do not like to change when something else is being used, and it's working. I would stick to the oil it's used to. Just my preference.
 
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Merlinspop

1- The manual and oil filler cap show 5W-20 Oil is called for. From a sticker in the window, I can tell that it was serviced with 10w-30. Should I switch to 5W-20?

2 - I've had very good results in my econo-yaris and Honda Goldwing using full synthetic oil, but I switched them from the second change from new. I've heard there can be problems when switching to full synthetic after several 1000's of miles. True? Should I stick with regular oil or is there a recommended process to change over to syn?

3 - Should I go ahead and have any other fluids changed? If so, which ones?

4 - Are there any known problems I should check for (or have my mechanic check for)?

5 - Powerwashing and a lot of elbow grease took care of years of built up dirt on the exterior and interior (vinyl floor, no carpets), but the engine bay is filthy. The manual suggests covering parts of the engine with plastic before washing, but EVERYTHING is coated with dirt. What's the best way to get everything in there cleaned without causing damage?
I'll start by saying WELCOME you are asking on the right place (you are supposed to post pictures though )

#1: how long has it been running 5w30? or do you know? does it make any weird noises? just use a good oil filter that has the valve that stops back flow.

#2: I have no idea but I've always run synthetic and haven't had any issues after a swap

#3: tranny fluid and filter, check the differentials (mine get changed once a year but some never do it)

#4: the spitting plugs, blue jay already suggested to make sure the plugs are torqued, jbrew has the specs

#5: be careful with the cops (coil over plugs) and other electrical stuff under the hood I'd wash the engine bay by hand but others cover the electrical stuff and spray away


as far as suggestions the "gotts intake" https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...take-pics.html is great way to start, then work your way up from there if you desire
 
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Merlinspop
1- The manual and oil filler cap show 5W-20 Oil is called for. From a sticker in the window, I can tell that it was serviced with 10w-30. Should I switch to 5W-20?

2 - I've had very good results in my econo-yaris and Honda Goldwing using full synthetic oil, but I switched them from the second change from new. I've heard there can be problems when switching to full synthetic after several 1000's of miles. True? Should I stick with regular oil or is there a recommended process to change over to syn?

3 - Should I go ahead and have any other fluids changed? If so, which ones?

4 - Are there any known problems I should check for (or have my mechanic check for)?

5 - Powerwashing and a lot of elbow grease took care of years of built up dirt on the exterior and interior (vinyl floor, no carpets), but the engine bay is filthy. The manual suggests covering parts of the engine with plastic before washing, but EVERYTHING is coated with dirt. What's the best way to get everything in there cleaned without causing damage?
1-I would change it back to 5-20 or 5-30.

2-I switched my 03 with about 55000 miles over to synthetic if you want to make the switch go for it.

3-I would do the trans fluid/filter and antifreeze. With the low miles on your truck your diffs should be fine but you can change those to if you want to.

4-Plugs. Do a search there are a million threads here on that. Torque specs are anywhere from 7 to 16 ft pounds. I used 14. blownoutsparkplug.com recomends a whole lot more you can check that out if you want.

5-These motors don't like getting wet from what I have read here. That is why I have not powerwashed mine. You can decide if want to do that or not.
 
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:48 PM
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Thanks for the answers... the guy who did my state inspection was pretty impressed with how well it's been maintained (former Dept of Ag truck). He said brakes looked nearly new. If for nothing more than peace of mind and to start off on a clean sheet of paper, he'll be doing the differentials and changing the oil back to 5w20. Possibly the tranny fluid based on how it looks and smells.

Decided to hand wash the engine at next car wash in the driveway, then crank it up and use the low pressure garden hose to rinse with the electrical bits and air filter covered.
 
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Old 02-27-2009, 05:03 PM
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Merlin, another option for the engine bay may be a detailer. I know theres one here by me that does engine bays, and they know exactly what to cover and whats okay to get blasted.
 
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:59 PM
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Stock - Abide by this for just about everything -



Accept no substitutes; - that's where you run into problems.

The ONLY substitute is ignition coils. Chances are you'll run into ignition problems at some point, if you keep the truck long enough. Motorcraft coils are good, but very over priced. $90 @ the dealership/ $9 @ a few third party suppliers who carry the same coil. You just need to know who and where - that can be found easy enough thru the search bar or just ask.
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5w 20 Motorcraft Syn Blend is what's recommended by the manufacturer for best economy and vehicle performance. There's other compatible grades, but 10/30 isn't one of them. You may be able to get away with it, but I wouldn't chance it. It's to heavy for cold starts IMO. Personally your better off sticking with Ford recommendations here.
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Trans -

If dirty - have a "Fluid Transfer" done or dealership or Flush. I don't like using the word "Flush" because that can be performed in different ways - usually by DIY'ers. Dealerships Flush via Transfer. That's what you want.

To maintain, just drain the pan and refill every 15,000 miles or so. Change filter 15,000 miles after transfer/flush. Then you won't have to change that again for another 60,000 miles as long as you keep up on maintenance.

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Fuel Filter -

At least every 15,000 miles.

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I didn't catch your mileage, but @ about 80,000 miles, a "Motor-Vac" service is worth every penny. This de-carbons/cleans up the valves and engine internals. These modulars will live a long life w/good maintenance. The only third party additive that I would even think about is AutoRX. That's the only stuff that does what it says AFAIK -

http://www.auto-rx.com/
 

Last edited by jbrew; 02-27-2009 at 10:18 PM. Reason: ADDED INFO
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:05 AM
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Thanks, Jbrew... I'm just past 45K miles on it. Will be switching it back to 5w20. Great advice on the other items, too. Thanks again!
 
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:17 PM
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Yea, you'll get many more miles out of it from being a member here - I have. I'm @ 258, 000 lol. Anything that comes up, just ask about it, chances are one of us have been thru it and worked it out. As a last resort, ask/search in the engines forum if your having no luck in the others.
 
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Old 03-05-2009, 06:35 PM
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Sounds like you got a great truck there

I would highly recommend you stick with the idea of not power washing the engine though. Either wash it by hand like you said or take it to a detailer just to be on the safe side.
 



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