I am trying to figure out whether my 2k F150 4x4 should have its rotors turned or whether I should just go ahead and replace them. To help determine this, one thing I would like to know is the original thickness of the rotors.

On brake inspection the dealer originally recommended replacing the rotors because they felt that there was not enough left to machine, but backed off when I balked at the price ($542, plus fluid flush at $140??!!). In the course of this conversation they said that the minimum rotor thickness is .980 and that currently I am at 1.122 (left) and 1.123 (right). But what is 1.122 relative to - i.e. if I have them turned will I have to go ahead and replace them soon anyway? They maintain that they do not know the original thickness, a claim that seems dubious, but I am having difficulty finding that out myself. Anyone know?

 

Hi,
I couldn'y find the number also... Maybe caliper is the only limit?

I think they are correct on the numbers...
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Brake Discs
Front brake disc minimum thickness (F150, Lightning) 24.7 mm (0.98 in)
Front brake disc minimum thickness (F150 HD) 27.7 mm (1.1 in)
Rear brake disc minimum thickness 12 mm (0.48 in)
Brake disc maximum runout 0.076 mm (0.003 in)
Brake disc maximum thickness variation 0.010 mm (0.0004 in)
Drum Brake
Brake drum maximum inside diameter 282.4 mm (11.29 in)

NOTE: The depth of cut must be between 0.10 and 0.20 mm (0.004 and 0.008 in). Lighter cuts will cause heat and wear. Heavier cuts will cause poor brake disc surface finish.

Using a hub-mount brake lathe, machine the brake discs. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. After machining, make sure the brake disc still meets the thickness specification.
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Keep in mind that disks will wear and be getting thinner and if it breaks (cracks) while you're driving...

I believe that I paid around $500 total for the job. Could you try to find a good privately owned shop???
Hope that helps,
Alex.

 

Neither ... if you have just normal disk pad wear with no gouges, no warpage, just replace the pads yourself without turning the rotors. No shop will do this and gaurantee their work, because they want your $.$$. Learn how to do brakes yourself, have someone show you, talk you through it, you'll be glad you did. Spend the $500 saved on more add ons for your truck.

I've done a bunch of brake jobs. My 1999 4x4 has 55k miles, 4 wheel disk, just rotated tires and the factory brakes are wearing great and have quite a bit of life left.

 

you can take a piece of 80 or 60 grit sandpaper and in a circular motion scoure the surface that will help the pads seat in better...as far as thickness;yes you can turn to minimum thickness but the draw back is that warpage of the rotor is likly to occour when you inncure heavy braking situations...this you will know by a shaking of the sterring wheel as you exit from the highway and apply the brakes or a lurching at low speed stops

 

OK guys not all techs are thieves, they should not have been trying to sell the rotors at that thickness, and, if they are trying to sell you 2 botles of brake fluid run through the brake system for 140dollars
dont ever go back!!!
in regard to sagitarus and texford---ALWAYS machine the rotors during a brake job even if you are doing it yourself take it top the local parts store for machining after you have removed them, and NEVER use sandpaper or abrasive discs on rotors,
people forget that there are alot more things that can go wrong with rotors than just warpage, material transfer, heat cracks, thickness variation etc
THESE ARE YOUR BRAKES, YOUR LIVES AND EVERYBODY ELSES ON THE ROAD DEPENDS ON THEM WORKING PROPERLY,
Typical ford prices are about 175-200$ an axle for brake repairs, new pads, repack bearings and machine drums or rotors

 

I agree with sagittarius1. I've changed brakes on many vehicles over the past 30 years and I don't don't just get the rotors turned for no reason. If your aren't experiencing shaking or vibration during breaking and the rotors don't look really grooved - forget about it. Put on new pads, test them out, and you'll be good to go. I've heard a lot of stories about shops turning rotors and doing more damage than when the things were brought in! (Turned off center, taken too much off, etc.)

Just my $0.02

 

I replaced my rear rotors when I replaced my rear brake pads. I kept my old rotors because I believe they can be turned atleast once. I have had my truck since new with 13 miles on it and I know the rotors have never been turned. the groves are not deep enough to stop the turning process in my opinion. I am not an expert but I smart enough to measure to question the decission of turning them VS replacement. $500.00 dollars is alot to replace breaks and rotors.

 

This thread is only 12 years old..........

 

12 years old, not bad at all.... It just tells you that this guy knows how to use the search function. Something folks always harp on....

 

you can turn to minimum thickness but the draw back is that warpage of the rotor is likly to occour when you inncure heavy braking situations...this you will know by a shaking of the sterring wheel as you exit from the highway and apply the brakes or a lurching at low speed stops