Rotor Removal
#1
#2
#3
Here's how I did it: http://members.shaw.ca/pferlow/brake_repair.htm
Lots of WD40 and a big hammer. Let the WD soak in. Spray it liberally from the back side of the rotor between the hub and disc, also into where the wheel lugs poke through. Turn the disc while you hammer it. Use a regular hammer to smack between the lugs on the face of the rotor.
Otherwise if nothing works use a hacksaw and cut the rotor down to the hub (don't cut the hub), then cut again 180 degrees from the first cut. Apparently because they are cast iron it's fairly soft - just cut between the cooling vanes so you cut less metal. Then bang them off.
There has been talk about hubs needing replacement after 50-60k miles but can't confirm that. Ford states there is a hub maintenance service but the Haynes manual states they are sealed units, the only maintenance you do is replace them.
Good luck.
Lots of WD40 and a big hammer. Let the WD soak in. Spray it liberally from the back side of the rotor between the hub and disc, also into where the wheel lugs poke through. Turn the disc while you hammer it. Use a regular hammer to smack between the lugs on the face of the rotor.
Otherwise if nothing works use a hacksaw and cut the rotor down to the hub (don't cut the hub), then cut again 180 degrees from the first cut. Apparently because they are cast iron it's fairly soft - just cut between the cooling vanes so you cut less metal. Then bang them off.
There has been talk about hubs needing replacement after 50-60k miles but can't confirm that. Ford states there is a hub maintenance service but the Haynes manual states they are sealed units, the only maintenance you do is replace them.
Good luck.
Last edited by p_ferlow; 04-12-2002 at 01:56 AM.
#4
Disk Remove
check out www.fordf150.net/howto/brakerepair.htm ...gives a complete how-to step by step....sounds like a BFH is the thing to have
#6
try Kroil it is an awsome penatrating oil (best I know of).
You may also need a BFH (Big F@#&%N Hammer) to convince them to come off they are shy... Liberial use of the 10 pound tweeking tool will normally do the trick...
When you replace them apply anti-seize to the back side (mating surfaces) and you won't have to beat them ever again... Why ford doesn't use anti-seize I will never know.
Jim
You may also need a BFH (Big F@#&%N Hammer) to convince them to come off they are shy... Liberial use of the 10 pound tweeking tool will normally do the trick...
When you replace them apply anti-seize to the back side (mating surfaces) and you won't have to beat them ever again... Why ford doesn't use anti-seize I will never know.
Jim