I just installed KVR crossdrilled rotors and carbon kevlar pads.First impression is they are execellent but I guess only time will tell.The change over went fine with 93000 km everything came apart very easily no hammering at all.

 

Good job DG. Let us know how they hold up.

Natty

 

Was the swap worth the money? And about how much? I saw some cross drilled rotors in JC.Whitney for about 40 or so dollars. Main question is do the stop any better, is the any significant changes.

 

I searched all of the net the other day for performance rotors. Found an interesting webpage (sorry don't remember the url) to a dude that was using Baer brake parts and had bad rotor cracks. He even did the Cryo (liquid nitrogen) treatment, the one with treatment cracked too but 19k miles later than the untreated rotor. Seems like drilling can induce stress cracks.

That aside, somewhere on these forums I found that www.roto-tech.com here in Canada is the manufacturer of the performance rotors you saw at JCWhitney. I sent them an email yesterday inquiring as to if they really DID supply JCWhitney and if they ship direct seeing as I'm in Canada so why ship to the U.S. and then back to Canada right?

On their crappy website the email is wrong. They have it listed as rototec@msn.com but it's actually roto-tec@msn.com, got the first email back until I found the real email on another website promoting automotive manufacturers. Roto-tech's website says Copyright 1998 so I'm wondering why their email is still wrong on their site.

Anyhow, I'll let you know what I find out.

Does anyone have a favourite manufacturer for Cryo treatments and can you quote prices per rotor? From what I understand, to do it right they cool the rotor in cold nitrogen gas slowly and then dip it in liquid nitrogen, after which they let it warm up extremely slowly, then bake it to 300deg.F. Whole process takes 72hrs because the metal is actually brittle after freezing, therefore the baking process after.

I saw a post of ART Cryo rotors on another Ford sight, anyone price those out?

Lets hear from more 4x4 users as the 2wd front rotors pop off very easy, it's the 4x4 people having the troubles it seems. Read somewhere that this is only for 1997 models as the rotor/hub fitment is too tight or something. Please clarify if you've done it. 6lb BFH & torching sounds like it could damage your hub assembly??

I have a 98 XLT 4x4 S/C, rear drums. Have those "titanium" pads from JC Whitney coming mail-order after reading posts and going by Greg Forkner's recommendations who has been running them for 10k miles and also has a 3000# trailer. Good performance and no dust so far.

 

technically speaking drilling and slotting will decrease your braking capacity. you have less rotor surface to change kentic energy into thermal energy.

If the holes are not tapered, they will crack very quickly. Be sure to bed the rotors in properly!

http://www.baer.com/bedding_street/

I have slotted and drilled rotors on the mustang, but they are 13" and I went that route cause they were a free upgrade to me from the solids and they weigh about 1lb less. Doesnt sound like a lot, but it is unsprung mass!

 

I've had the pads & rotors on for only a week but so far i am very satisfied. The first time I did the brakes I machined the rotors & put on Wagner power extreme pads, it stopped better but still not as good as it should. In a fairly short time I started to experience brake fade once again.I've used the same pads on other vehicals and been very happy with them.With the KVR pads & rotors it stops the way should with very little effort. The pads ,rotors ,bearings & seals came to $500 cnd. It may be a bit on the expensive side but so far I'm very happy with the purchase.

 

Please tell us if anyone online sells those KVR rotors or the dealer/store name/url where you bought your set.

Thanks.

 

I assume that '99 and later are different(at least rears'cuz drum/disc), but does anybody know if '97 & '98 use the exact same brakes front & rear??


If they are the same, is there any advantage to using '99&later pads/rotors on a '97 or '98??? (fronts only, I suppose)

TIA~Randy

 

I could be wrong (somebody correct me if I am) but the 99's have the same front rotors as 97-98 with the exception of a ring that is pressed onto the rotor for the abs sensors.

Wouldn't think there is an advantage as they're prob the same diameter rotors/pads size.

Haven't heard from www.roto-tech.com regarding where I can buy there performance rotors here in Canada. Don't want to buy from JCWhitney cause I don't think they have them for my application and why buy through U.S. for a Canadian product? Going to call them tomorrow and see if their phone service is any better than their web/email service.

Having stock rotors cryo-treated and using performance pads would be the cheapest/best solution it seems.

Someone in another post mentioned around $900 for a complete rear axle off a 99' with disc brakes. Somewhere else I saw a post that Ford actually makes a disc brake kit for somewhere around $500cdn I think. But there was another post saying you'd have to swap in a 99' master cylinder. Not sure if it's an advantage, seen some warped rear rotors mentioned here. Last time I checked my rear drums @ 87,000kms were fine. Just adjusted everything and put lithium grease on the friction points.

I wonder if it's possible to ad ABS to 97/98 models?

 

I purchased the pads & rotors from Tool Thyme cars & stuff, it's a small store that does cataloge orders at jobber or dealer cost with a small handleing fee.

http://www.kvrperformance.com/

 

Thanks DG13. I guess that small store doesn't have a website does it?

Can I ask how much for a KVR rotor? I got my Titanium pads from JCWhitney yesterday.

www.roto-tech.com never replied to my email from last week. I called them up this morning. They don't deal direct. www.bowwow.ca (Bow-Wow Parts Ltd) here in Vancouver and Pacific Parts Ltd. are part of a buying group that purchase Roto-Tech parts according to the lady I called at Roto-Tech. Their phone number is 416-445-9801 and I talked to a lady named Mena.

Sounds to me like they only supply wholesale parts to large groups or big buyers like JCWhitney. I hope those two places mentioned above can get these rotors.

Front rotors that are drilled/slotted for F150 4x4 1997-2000 are part #540421 and #540422 in their catalog www.roto-tech.com/hpr16.html

JCWhitney doesn't show the rotors online but in their catalog it's part #47SZ6756W (left) #47SZ6757U (right) $94.95US each. The Titanium pads in the catalog are only $29.95! These parts are 97-00 4x4.

The JC catalog also shows two different rotors for 2wd F150 97-00. Those with rear ABS are $79.95US and 4whl ABS are $89.95US. Expedition part numbers are different. Weird part is the 4wd Expy rotor is $69.95US, 2wd rotor is $94.95US - sounds backwards.

 

The rotors were about $165 cnd each which wasn't that much more for a normal rotor at Canadian Tire $153 cnd.

 

DG13: Thanks for the info. I brought the subject of performance rotors up with my wife but she didn't like the idea. Darn it.

Had to buy oem rotors, but I have those JCWhitney titanium pads to use on'em.

I bought my rotors at: www.lordco.com who have many stores in B.C., Canada for $86cdn a piece. Says made in Canada on them. Look nice new.

I also bought some Autolite Platinum Pro plugs ($66cdn for 8), the ones with the platinum on the side electrode as well. I figured with all the neg. feedback concerning the Bosch +4 plugs I'd stick to oem with more platinum. I'll start a thread under engines on the subject.

 

Hi Guys,
Just finished doing the front brakes on my 98 4x4.

I took my time and it was about 2 hours. You could do it in an hour I guess if you were rushing or 4 hours if you can't get a rotor off.

Used OEM type rotors from www.lordco.com and titanium pads from JCWhitney.

You need a 13mm socket to remove the caliper slide bolts holding the caliper on, an 18mm for the two bigs bolts holding the disc retaining bracket on, prybar, hammer - regular & sledge, WD40, antiseize compound, hitemp lithium grease. Patience.

After removing the wheel, caliper, bracket I sprayed wd40 (with extension tube on spray head of wd40) into the back side liberally trying to get oil behind the rotor where it sits on the face of the hub where the wheel lugs are. Also sprayed WD40 in between the lugs and the holes in the rotor face. Took a regular hammer and gave it some good wacks on the hub face between the lug studs all around. More WD40, hammer again, let sit. Do other side. Now take your sledge or the head of a splitting maul axe and bang the back of the rotor where the caliper was (no backing plate in that area) from the inside of the fender outwards a couple times. Rotate the rotor and hit it a few more times. It should eventually pop loose. If not smack it on the face between lugs some more, more WD40. They came off easier than I expected by the experiences on the forums of torches, cutters, etc.

I put antiseize (never-seez brand) on the face of the hub between lugs and on the 18mm & 13mm bolts so next time it will be easier.

According to instructions I made about 8 gradual stops from 30mph (50kph) and parked it, let everything cool for a few hours (pad "break-in"). Going grocery shopping next.

I'll post some pics for anyone that's interested soon as the film is developed, prob a week or so.

 

I'm looking for new rotors right now-priced the ART Frozen Rotors.
$280.00 for the rotors and pads. I wish someone who has bought the frozen rotors would let me know how they like them, I've been trying to order from ART, but they are hard as heck to get on the phone. I have had may orginal rotors turned twice and really feel it is time to have them replaced.